Valve adjustment

Tek_Freek said:
I have to ask what you do to put so many miles on cars. Our 2018 (after a 2500 mile trip) has 14,844 miles. We are retired now, but when we were both working we traded 13 year old cars with less than 70k.
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My 2020, 25 months since I bought it with 16 miles on it, now has 33,108 miles.

Weekly commuting mileage is ~110 miles now, was ~22 miles for the first 8 months (WFH 4 days a week). Big mile trips, 6200 miles in 28 days when Mom died in March, 21 and 5200 miles in 18 days in August/September for trip to Chicago. Beyond those, I work races at tracks around the northwest, average 2 weekends a month April-October. Closest one is a 120 mile round trip, others are 450-700 mile round trips

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SR2K said:
Here are the instructions from Honda's iN network, interestingly different than what alldata has. They call out 0.18mm-0.22mm on the intake valves, no adjustment on the exhaust valves. (Hydraulic tappet)
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Not to dig up an old post, but I want to learn how to do this adjustment myself. I found this information on one of Honda's parts websites, and it specifies the adjustment stud bolt on both the intake and exhaust sides.

Has anyone been able to find any more information on the proper clearance and torque specs for a Clarity lash adjustment?
 

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MrFixit said:
Yes
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Thank you very much. It seems to me that the previously attached document may not be correct since it references hydraulic lifters on the exhaust, which would seem to be manual adjustment based on the engineering drawing from Hondafactoryparts. It does worry me that the clearance spec is not the same.

Have you adjusted your valves to the clearance specs in that attached document?
 
Ibol13 said:
It seems to me that the previously attached document may not be correct since it references hydraulic lifters on the exhaust, which would seem to be manual adjustment based on the engineering drawing from Hondafactoryparts.
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I think you are referring to Post #16... You are right, that is certainly suspect. @SR2K states that it comes from Honda's iN network, but I believe you are right that the Clarity has no hydraulic lifters so I wouldn't trust it. As further evidence of this, I found a Clarity cylinder head for sale on eBay and it clearly shows all manual adjustments. Have a look:

s-l1600.jpg


So, I agree, that the document in Post #16 is unreliable. Beyond that, I can't vouch for the specific numbers shown in the 'alldatadiy' document. But, even though the numbers in the 'bad' document are indeed different, they are pretty close and actually overlap. The 1st document shows 0.18 - 0.22 mm for intake and the 'alldatadiy' shows 0.21 - 0.25 mm. If it were me, I would just go by the 'alldatadiy' and nominally set the intake to 0.009" and the the exhaust in the 0.010" to 0.011" range.

No, I have not done this... I only have ~40K miles and don't hear any valve noise yet.
Why do you feel that your car needs this? Do you hear some noise? How many miles do you have?

If you do launch into this, please report back with lesson's learned from the whole process. It seems fairly involved.
 
I have a little over 220,000 miles on the car (150,000 HV?), and decided to change the spark plugs.

I was getting misfires in cylinders 1 and 3 when RPM was over 4,000.

I had purchased plugs from Rock Auto about a year ago, and never put them in. I could not find those plugs, so I bought new ones from a local Honda dealer.

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@ClarityBill
Just curious - What the heck do you do with this car to rack up 220K miles in ~5 years?
The old plugs were definitely due for replacement by the looks of them. I presume the new plugs 'fixed' the misfires?
 
@ClarityBill, did the Rock Auto plugs magically appear right after you purchased new ones from your Honda dealer? That's how I usually find things that went missing.
 
I am self-employed, and I travel for work. I have been 'plant engineer' for a couple small dairy processors in upstate New York.

Instead of sitting in hotel rooms at night, I go visit my kids, or go work on their rental properties.

I have only driven a couple hundred miles with the new plugs, but I did get over 4K RPM a couple times, so it seems like my problem is solved.

I figure the Rock Auto plugs will show up after I sell the car...
 
Just for information:
When I got the misfire error: The check engine light would flash. The engine locked about 1500 RPM, and would not shut off when there was no charging need. I could not go to EV mode, even with over 50% battery. The engine would also not speed up when there was load on the battery.

I shut off the car and the engine would stop. When I restarted the car, the check engine light did not flash, the engine responded properly until I had the misfire error again. As long as I stayed below 4K RPM, the car drove properly - EV mode or HV mode: Charging battery and shutting off the engine when not needed. I used HV reset to keep RPM below 4K.
 
MrFixit said:
I think you are referring to Post #16... You are right, that is certainly suspect. @SR2K states that it comes from Honda's iN network, but I believe you are right that the Clarity has no hydraulic lifters so I wouldn't trust it. As further evidence of this, I found a Clarity cylinder head for sale on eBay and it clearly shows all manual adjustments. Have a look:

s-l1600.jpg


So, I agree, that the document in Post #16 is unreliable. Beyond that, I can't vouch for the specific numbers shown in the 'alldatadiy' document. But, even though the numbers in the 'bad' document are indeed different, they are pretty close and actually overlap. The 1st document shows 0.18 - 0.22 mm for intake and the 'alldatadiy' shows 0.21 - 0.25 mm. If it were me, I would just go by the 'alldatadiy' and nominally set the intake to 0.009" and the the exhaust in the 0.010" to 0.011" range.

No, I have not done this... I only have ~40K miles and don't hear any valve noise yet.
Why do you feel that your car needs this? Do you hear some noise? How many miles do you have?

If you do launch into this, please report back with lesson's learned from the whole process. It seems fairly involved.
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I'm just neurotic and I like to plan ahead. I am planning on doing my plugs, inlet cover gaskets, and valve adjustments around 100,000 to 120,000 miles, even though I drive mostly in HV. It's a few years away for me.
 
ClarityBill said:
I am self-employed, and I travel for work. I have been 'plant engineer' for a couple small dairy processors in upstate New York.

Instead of sitting in hotel rooms at night, I go visit my kids, or go work on their rental properties.

I have only driven a couple hundred miles with the new plugs, but I did get over 4K RPM a couple times, so it seems like my problem is solved.

I figure the Rock Auto plugs will show up after I sell the car...
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Did you adjust the valves when you changed the plugs?
 
Casey Martin said:
I am at 133k miles now and I think I can hear some valve tick. I am considering doing this soon myself.
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Let us know how it goes. Hondapartsnow has the valve cover gasket and the spark plugs, and I believe you need some Honda bond to seal some weird geometry around the head where the block meets the valve cover.
The spark plug tube gaskets are integrated into the plastic head and are not serviceable.
 
I had the valves adjusted by the dealership at 107k miles. 3 visits, 7k miles and 5 months later, they FINALLY mended the cam-cover oil leak they created with that particular service. And....it was an ALL DAY affair - waiting for their sealant to cure. I wasn't informed the cure time was the problem - a friend picked me up, we went to lunch, visited awhile, then he dropped me back at the dealership, where I waited an additional 4-5 hours after a promise of "30 more minutes" many times over and over.
At which point I made them aware of ReinzoSil: https://www.reinz-industrial.com/en/products/sealing-compounds/reinzosil.aspx
If you are going to DIY, I highly recommend you pick up a tube from Victor.
 
MrFixit said:
I don't have anywhere near the miles of @Casey Martin, but I feel like there some ticking when the engine is cold, which goes away after warm-up.
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Yeah, I agree it's definitely tickier when cold, but that's true with almost any engine, and considering how the engine is designed I would be surprised if it didn't tick when cold.
 
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