Using 12V Car Outlet In An Emergency

Steadfast

Member
I have not seen this mentioned before but any EV can be used to provide power to your home if you have a battery or portable solar generator. You can simply charge the battery or generator with the 12V outlet in your vehicle and then run your home from the generator or battery. It's not the same as being able to plug directly into your vehicle but in the case of an emergency and having no heat or your food going bad, it is an option.
 
How many amps can it support though? the 12v system is not design for large loads and the thin wires will get hot.

You'll likely trip fuses after 400 watts or so, which isn't much when you're talking 120 upconversion
 
My Tesla 12V socket is rated at 50W. However there is a 12V buss bar rated at much higher (400W?) to power big audio systems. But I have no interest in trying to back-door a vehicle-to-grid in my 2019 Model 3.

When my late wife became homebound, I added a natural gas fueled, 16 kW, automatic, emergency generator.

Bob Wilson
 
When I had a 2019 Kona I used to connect a 1200 watt inverter directly to the kona 12 volt battery and leave the Kona in run. It would run my internet, lights and refrigerator during power outages. There are many older post on doing this. I now have a lighting with 9.6 kw. I used it to power my sons house last week during a power outage. I didn't need it at home as I have solar and a back up battery.
 
How many amps can it support though? the 12v system is not design for large loads and the thin wires will get hot.

You'll likely trip fuses after 400 watts or so, which isn't much when you're talking 120 upconversion
What are you talking about? I'm talking about plugging it into your portable solar generator. Most come with the adapter. You must be thinking about something else.

See post #4.
 
When I had a 2019 Kona I used to connect a 1200 watt inverter directly to the kona 12 volt battery and leave the Kona in run. It would run my internet, lights and refrigerator during power outages. There are many older post on doing this.
Thank you. This is exactly what I am talking about. And yes, it is important to leave your EV in "run" or "on" so you don't drain the 12V battery.
 
I see, i read it wrong.

so, you're saying to recharge the portable electric generator with the car. got it. Still, this takes a very long time and likely won't keep up with any amount of consumption in the home. Better off with a couple panels rated at higher throughput
 
I see, i read it wrong.

so, you're saying to recharge the portable electric generator with the car. got it. Still, this takes a very long time and likely won't keep up with any amount of consumption in the home. Better off with a couple panels rated at higher throughput
Yes, or better yet, a dozen 600W panels with adequate battery backup. However, the point is, in a pinch, this can be of help.
 
a 2019 Kona I used to connect a 1200 watt inverter directly to the kona 12 volt battery
I had a used 2003 Prius in 2005 and my first modification was to put a 1.1 kW, modified sine wave inverter mounted behind the liner in the trunk where the 12V battery was located. I ran a line to the console between the front seats with a NEMA 5-15 outlet and light switch.

For light duty loads like a laptop, I could switch on the inverter in the cabin and see the power indicator glow. But for heavy loads like the house, I would back up to the rear kitchen door; lay the hinged inverter down in the slightly open trunk for cooling, and; use a heavy duty, multi-headed extension cord into the house to "camp out" at home.

The Prius catalytic converter ensured there were no poisonous exhaust gasses and near silent operation. The car would cycle the engine to maintain the traction battery charge which depending on house load, cycled 3-7 minutes. This was enough to run the gas heater or a single bedroom air conditioner. We also had lights to the bathroom, lights, and TV and burned about 2 gallons per day from the 10.5 gallon Prius gas tank.

In 2011, tornadoes tore out the North Alabama transmission lines and a 4 day and 6 hour power outage. But we were warm at home and on a separate, day long outage, had a cool bedroom to sleep. I didn't worry about the fridge as too many leftovers and it needed replacement with something more efficient.

My benchmarks showed that with the direct to 12V terminal posts, we could operate at the inverter limit, ~1 kWh. Testing with a three level space heater to verify overload handling of the inverter, the Prius DC-to-DC converter limited power to the battery. Over +70A, the Prius battery 13.5VDC would sag so the maximum usable power remained ~1 kWh.

In rush current had to be addressed and I always added the big loads, gas heater or window AC, first. The compressor and motor loads were significant transients. Then I added the smaller lights, TV, and laptop.

Bob Wilson
 
I had a used 2003 Prius in 2005 and my first modification was to put a 1.1 kW, modified sine wave inverter mounted behind the liner in the trunk where the 12V battery was located. I ran a line to the console between the front seats with a NEMA 5-15 outlet and light switch.

For light duty loads like a laptop, I could switch on the inverter in the cabin and see the power indicator glow. But for heavy loads like the house, I would back up to the rear kitchen door; lay the hinged inverter down in the slightly open trunk for cooling, and; use a heavy duty, multi-headed extension cord into the house to "camp out" at home.

The Prius catalytic converter ensured there were no poisonous exhaust gasses and near silent operation. The car would cycle the engine to maintain the traction battery charge which depending on house load, cycled 3-7 minutes. This was enough to run the gas heater or a single bedroom air conditioner. We also had lights to the bathroom, lights, and TV and burned about 2 gallons per day from the 10.5 gallon Prius gas tank.

In 2011, tornadoes tore out the North Alabama transmission lines and a 4 day and 6 hour power outage. But we were warm at home and on a separate, day long outage, had a cool bedroom to sleep. I didn't worry about the fridge as too many leftovers and it needed replacement with something more efficient.

My benchmarks showed that with the direct to 12V terminal posts, we could operate at the inverter limit, ~1 kWh. Testing with a three level space heater to verify overload handling of the inverter, the Prius DC-to-DC converter limited power to the battery. Over +70A, the Prius battery 13.5VDC would sag so the maximum usable power remained ~1 kWh.

In rush current had to be addressed and I always added the big loads, gas heater or window AC, first. The compressor and motor loads were significant transients. Then I added the smaller lights, TV, and laptop.

Bob Wilson
Thanks for that info, Bob. I'm sure if could be helpful to some.
 
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