Trying to ease my mind some re BMS etc. recalls

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hwitten

hwitten

Active Member
My charging is mostly at home, inside my detached garage.
Formalizing what I've been doing anyways, since 2020 Ultimate was new, 12000 km ago.
1) Charge to 80% max
2) Unplug when charge is complete. (used to leave it plugged in after charge done).
new:
3) After charge settles some, collect cell data with Car Scanner Pro (iOS)
4) Look for cell variations.
5) continue to enjoy the Kona unless #4 shows a nasty.

Occasionally I may charge to 100%, if I can use 10-20% right away so high SOC is at a minimum.

Similar monitoring after the occasional DC charge to 80% if on a road trip.

Does that sound like a reasonable approach or am I missing something ?
Not panicking, just trying to mitigate surprises :)
 
hwitten said:
My charging is mostly at home, inside my detached garage.
Formalizing what I've been doing anyways, since 2020 Ultimate was new, 12000 km ago.
1) Charge to 80% max
2) Unplug when charge is complete. (used to leave it plugged in after charge done).
new:
3) After charge settles some, collect cell data with Car Scanner Pro (iOS)
4) Look for cell variations.
5) continue to enjoy the Kona unless #4 shows a nasty.

Occasionally I may charge to 100%, if I can use 10-20% right away so high SOC is at a minimum.

Similar monitoring after the occasional DC charge to 80% if on a road trip.

Does that sound like a reasonable approach or am I missing something ?
Not panicking, just trying to mitigate surprises :)
Click to expand...
Other than storage in your garage, it sounds like you are taking the correct actions.
 
I personally keep an eye on the cell voltage once in a while via OBD2 and torque pro.

I've never had more than a momentarily 0.02V deviation. That deviation happens while driving or charging, only for a couple seconds, so I'm sure it's normal.

I thinks that's an acceptable approach.
 
electriceddy said:
Other than storage in your garage, it sounds like you are taking the correct actions.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I thought about leaving it outside but it would require some EVSE relocation or extending. Not leaving it plugged in once charge is complete should mitigate that some. However, I am going to add a Nest Protect near the Kona. It should (hopefully) give me time to move my Volvo outside as it reports on smoke, etc. throughout the house.
Should also help that nowadays I'm either in the Kona or at Home :)
 
Just limiting to charge to 80% is the main thing, including that you're abiding by Hyundai's advisory on that point.
I can't see any issue with leaving it plugged in after it has hit the limiter.
Cancel that, it's advised to unplug.
 
Your approach sounds fine for general battery health, but I'm not convinced they're going to stop you becoming the next car to burn. That's because if there was a trend then hyundai should have issued guidelines. They haven't done anything other than issue one BMS so far.

I think the best approach is to put pressure on and/or help hyundai find a solution. It includes ensuring your dealer knows of your concerns. It includes ensuring that your car has had that BMS update applied.
 
KiwiME said:
Just limiting to charge to 80% is the main thing, including that you're abiding by Hyundai's advisory on that point.
I can't see any issue with leaving it plugged in after it has hit the limiter.
Cancel that, it's advised to unplug.
Click to expand...
Who's the "it" that advises to unplug? The owner's manual says to leave it plugged in.
 
Andy Swarbrick said:
...That's because if there was a trend then hyundai should have issued guidelines....
Click to expand...
mikeselectricstuff said:
I don't see any reason to unplug when charged... makes me suspicious that whoever gave it doesn't really know what they're doing.
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Wildeyed said:
Who's the "it" that advises to unplug? ...
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I'll follow the directions advised by the importer yesterday, even if some seem pointless from a technical perspective. If something happens that will be the first question I'm asked. In the end they are liable for the product's safety and that is why they made a phone call and sent me an email.
 
hwitten said:
My charging is mostly at home, inside my detached garage.
Formalizing what I've been doing anyways, since 2020 Ultimate was new, 12000 km ago.
1) Charge to 80% max
2) Unplug when charge is complete. (used to leave it plugged in after charge done).
new:
3) After charge settles some, collect cell data with Car Scanner Pro (iOS)
4) Look for cell variations.
5) continue to enjoy the Kona unless #4 shows a nasty.

Occasionally I may charge to 100%, if I can use 10-20% right away so high SOC is at a minimum.

Similar monitoring after the occasional DC charge to 80% if on a road trip.

Does that sound like a reasonable approach or am I missing something ?
Not panicking, just trying to mitigate surprises :)
Click to expand...
Do you have a link to the Car Scanner Pro (iOS). I can't seem to locate it in the app store. Is it possibly listed under a different name?
 
So everyone who's getting dongles and apps and scanners and unplugging... what are you planning to do if a cell is out of whack?
 
Wildeyed said:
So everyone who's getting dongles and apps and scanners and unplugging... what are you planning to do if a cell is out of whack?
Click to expand...
I have a dongle on order and plan to check it with Soulevspy. I am hoping it will confirm that all cells are still OK. But if not, I will be taking it to my dealer. I have already talked to them about the next BMS update, and they are just waiting to get it ready to apply. Will then let them do their thing, and if the battery needs to be replaced, I'm sure they'll let me know.

I have never charged my car to 100%, and rarely use a fast charger. So hopefully my battery is still good as new.
 
Wildeyed said:
... what are you planning to do if a cell is out of whack?
Click to expand...
Not to charge over 80% was the plan but the importer has now decided that for me. I've only had this at 100% perhaps 6 times in 2 years, 15,300 km. There was one lazy cell (57) but it's caught up now.
Also, for RP, don't panic if you see some at 0.02 difference because it can show that if the SoC happens to place the voltages right on the 0.02 granularity boundary. In this case all I can say from this image taken just now is that all cells are between 3.720 and 3.739, a variation of ~0.02 max. The cells could have been all exactly 0.010 lower, technically just as good at 3.710 - 3.729, yet looked like a complete mess because SoulEVspy alters the background colour when the voltage is different from the majority by one step.
We're really looking for differences much larger, like 0.10 V. Hope that's clear ...

37219936-A189-446A-B8AA-80E391AD1C2E_1_105_c.webp
 
My car has had the service campaign 960 BMS update so I have every confidence that the BMS will do what it is supposed to do.

AC (7.2 kW) charged my car last night to 100% (Plunge pricing for my electricity last night so I was being paid to use electricity!)

Sceen shots from Torque Pro

Screenshot_20201025-104739_Torque.webp
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Screenshot_20201025-104853_Torque.webp
Screenshot_20201025-104901_Torque.webp
Screenshot_20201025-104908_Torque.webp
Screenshot_20201025-104914_Torque.webp
Screenshot_20201025-104922_Torque.webp
 
Same here charged up to 100% for a third time in last 2 weeks, been driving longer distances for work and need the range since the temperatures have dropped with overnight lows around -4C. Everything looks good. Pack is balanced out nicely ,no cell variation(min and max cells at 4.16 V with total pack voltage of 408.7V). I even saw a 94.5% BMS SOC at an indicated 100% displayed last charge session , that is even better than when the car was brand new, suggesting zero degradation over the past 18, 000 km/ 10 months. I agree with Anaglypta I think the 960 update is already appropriately monitoring the cell variation and am not worried that it won't provide sufficient warning . I kind of feel the only thing the pending update will give us is longer charge rates after 80% SOC.
 
Last edited:
R P said:
I have a dongle on order and plan to check it with Soulevspy. I am hoping it will confirm that all cells are still OK. But if not, I will be taking it to my dealer. I have already talked to them about the next BMS update, and they are just waiting to get it ready to apply. Will then let them do their thing, and if the battery needs to be replaced, I'm sure they'll let me know.
I have never charged my car to 100%, and rarely use a fast charger. So hopefully my battery is still good as new.
Click to expand...

Got my dongle yesterday and tried it out today with soulevspy. I first verified the connection with the Lite version, and then also verified it with the ELM327 Identifier app to confirm that it was not a fake. All good. So below is my current cells status. This was done when the car was at 59% charge (as per car dash). Two cells are at 3.70, rest at 3.68. As I understand it, this is OK, with .02 variance not a concern. And again, have never charged my car to 100%. Car is being charged again as I write this post, so will do another check after that.

Have a question, though, is it OK to leave the dongle plugged in? It has a button switch, and a red light shines when it is on. If I push the button and shut it off, I assume it is not drawing any power from the car?



upload_2020-10-26_14-29-9.webp
 
R P said:
Got my dongle yesterday and tried it out today with soulevspy. I first verified the connection with the Lite version, and then also verified it with the ELM327 Identifier app to confirm that it was not a fake. All good. So below is my current cells status. This was done when the car was at 59% charge (as per car dash). Two cells are at 3.70, rest at 3.68. As I understand it, this is OK, with .02 variance not a concern. And again, have never charged my car to 100%. Car is being charged again as I write this post, so will do another check after that.

Have a question, though, is it OK to leave the dongle plugged in? It has a button switch, and a red light shines when it is on. If I push the button and shut it off, I assume it is not drawing any power from the car?



View attachment 9695
Click to expand...
My old dongle had an on off button which I used and left it plugged into the port all the time with no current draw. What make of dongle (link) do you have?
 
R P said:
Got my dongle yesterday and tried it out today with soulevspy. I first verified the connection with the Lite version, and then also verified it with the ELM327 Identifier app to confirm that it was not a fake. All good. So below is my current cells status. This was done when the car was at 59% charge (as per car dash). Two cells are at 3.70, rest at 3.68. As I understand it, this is OK, with .02 variance not a concern. And again, have never charged my car to 100%. Car is being charged again as I write this post, so will do another check after that.

Have a question, though, is it OK to leave the dongle plugged in? It has a button switch, and a red light shines when it is on. If I push the button and shut it off, I assume it is not drawing any power from the car?



View attachment 9695
Click to expand...
Looks pretty good considering never charged to 100% for top end balancing:)
 
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