Things i dislike about the Kona

GPM432 said:
very nice consignment is tough they want something out of it.
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Car is a '68 Corvette, 327/300 HP small block.. Matching numbers rebuilt original engine with bigger cam. 64k original miles (but not documented so hard to prove). Condition is somewhere between -2 and +3. There are a few small cracks in the paint but nothing major.. Looks 100% perfect in pictures. Interior could use new carpet. Got the original seats in close to perfect condition. (red seats and steering wheel in the pic are 1982 Corvette seats that I installed but I did keep the original seats and steering wheel) Steering wheel and dash are also very good. Everything except for clock works (clock never works on those). I added a set of 18" wheels and tires for over $2k as also stainless steel exhaust.. I have about $27k invested into the car (bought for $21500 and put about $5500 into it). Corvette Black book has it being worth about $35k but that is unrealistic. Matching number small block cars go from $18k to $25k. My car should go for about $23k to $24k or so.. I told them that the minimum I would take for it is $21k. So, they marked it up $6995 and listed it for $27995. After 1 year, it did not sell, so I'm taking it back.. Will list it on Autotrader for $23500 and see what happens.. I'd like to get $21500 for it.. If I won't get that, I'll keep the car.. I love the car but don't drive it enough.. I drove it for about 300 - 400 miles per year since I bought it 5 years ago.. Good thing is that the value of the car won't drop, so, keeping it will not depreciate it's value..
Funny thing is that the Kona would probably beat the Kona at the Drag Strip.. Saw someone running 14.80's with the Kona at the Drag Strip.. '68 Corvette 327/300 were running in the mid 15's in the 1/4 mile..

If I sell the Vette, together with the tax return money from the Kona and my annual bonus at work (which I'll both get in February), I would have enough cash to buy a very nice EV for the wife, or give the Kona to the wife and buy another EV for me.. Let's see... I was only planning on spending $15k on another EV but if the Vette sells, my budget may go up by $21500, maybe even more.. depending on the sales price of the Vette and my bonus at work.. Bonuses vary greatly.. Over the years, I've gotten between $3k and $10k bonus. (most likely $5k) . Let's see that it will be this year...

Looks like they dropped the price to $25500 as I told them that I want to take back the car..
https://www.gatewayclassiccars.com/TPA/1343/1968-Chevrolet-Corvette
 
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Biggest one (aside from rear brake noise that dealer is still addressing) is the fact they put non-LED lights in the "auxillary cornering-lights" at the front of the car. The difference between the crisp- white of the LED and the 'yellow' of the the auxiliary lights is striking.


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Yellerledbetty said:
Biggest one (aside from rear brake noise that dealer is still addressing) is the fact they put non-LED lights in the "auxillary cornering-lights" at the front of the car. The difference between the crisp- white of the LED and the 'yellow' of the the auxiliary lights is striking.


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I'm curious, are they giving you a hard time with regards to the rear brake noise, or were they already aware of the problem? I plan on mentioning my issue when I bring my car in for the first service, but without a proper TSB addressing the problem, not sure how they'll handle it.
 
Yellerledbetty said:
Biggest one (aside from rear brake noise that dealer is still addressing) is the fact they put non-LED lights in the "auxillary cornering-lights" at the front of the car. The difference between the crisp- white of the LED and the 'yellow' of the the auxiliary lights is striking.


Sent from my iPhone using Inside EVs
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Leds have been retrofit - see here:
https://insideevsforum.com/communit...difications-and-tweaks.5009/page-4#post-57912
Using these:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07H7K7NG1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(post 62 of same thread)
 
E-Shark said:
Any reason you prefer depressing the accelerator and not just holding the RES+ button up for a few seconds to increase it 10km? You can also depress the accelerator past the speed you previously set then press SET- to automatically set it to your new speed, instead of having to deactivate it, speed up, and reactivate it.

I'm pretty sure the shaking has to do with the fact that the accelerator should only be used for temporary acceleration, not prolonged!!
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Hyundai may be developing a fix using Machine Learning SCC :
https://www.greencarcongress.com/2019/10/20191021-hmg.html
 
SkookumPete said:
Not designed for pedestrian safety. I was thinking of the interior fittings, some of which were engineered to maim. ;)
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I now can't look at that car without imagining myself hit by it at a crosswalk. The bumper cone takes me out at the kneecap as the headlight cowl smashes into my midriff before I end up impaled on a hood ornament. Yet I grew up in this era and never thought of such things.
 
SkookumPete said:
I now can't look at that car without imagining myself hit by it at a crosswalk. The bumper cone takes me out at the kneecap as the headlight cowl smashes into my midriff before I end up impaled on a hood ornament. Yet I grew up in this era and never thought of such things.
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I never thought much of using the crosswalk when I was a youngster either... too far:rolleyes:
But in those days there were a lot fewer vehicles and my legs were much faster.
 
So this more of a warning or safety Issue for people who use the adaptive cruise allot. It works great when in light to heavy traffic. The speed increase and decreases as it should . I have found that if no traffic is around and you go around a curve and there is traffic ahead or a stop light it doesn't slow down enough for my comfort zone. It will slow down but really quickly so I apply the brakes before all of that. So you have to be careful.

The other case is highway exits.. If the person in front of you slows to exit your car slows with it and keeps slowing until the car is out of the adaptive cruise range sensor on the bumper even as you pass that car. If some one behinds not paying attention you could get slammed into . I now step on the gas and keep my speed up to avoid that. Just a thought to help out Not Hyundai's fault
 
GPM432 said:
So this more of a warning or safety Issue for people who use the adaptive cruise allot. It works great when in light to heavy traffic. The speed increase and decreases as it should . I have found that if no traffic is around and you go around a curve and there is traffic ahead or a stop light it doesn't slow down enough for my comfort zone. It will slow down but really quickly so I apply the brakes before all of that. So you have to be careful.

The other case is highway exits.. If the person in front of you slows to exit your car slows with it and keeps slowing until the car is out of the adaptive cruise range sensor on the bumper even as you pass that car. If some one behinds not paying attention you could get slammed into . I now step on the gas and keep my speed up to avoid that. Just a thought to help out Not Hyundai's fault
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Agreed, the limitations of the system given the hardware provided.
I enjoy the "hands/feet off" but the experience so far has taught me not to get placid particularly in irregular driving situations .
It definitely takes too long to accelerate once the car ahead turns out of your lane .
Maybe this will help in the future models :
https://www.greencarcongress.com/2019/10/20191021-hmg.html
 
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I have tried it a few times but my highway is too frequently congested and I find myself getting nervous because the car waits too long to decelerate for my taste so I end up getting scared and push on the break by foot.

By the way, I don't really grasp if setting more bars would improve or worsen the distance it keeps.
 
Francois said:
I have tried it a few times but my highway is too frequently congested and I find myself getting nervous because the car waits too long to decelerate for my taste so I end up getting scared and push on the break by foot.

By the way, I don't really grasp if setting more bars would improve or worsen the distance it keeps.
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More bars increases the distance.. Yes you have to get used to the car stopping or cruising to a stop... It took me a awhile. You just have to get used to your comfort level.
 
GPM432 said:
More bars increases the distance.. Yes you have to get used to the car stopping or cruising to a stop... It took me a awhile. You just have to get used to your comfort level.
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Agreed, but it will also accelerate heavily at times when it doesn't sense a vehicle immediately ahead of the Kona (even though there may be stopped traffic ahead). I've had many times when I've gotten that "uh oh" feeling and cancelled ACC when it starts accelerating rapidly towards stopped traffic. To improve this, Hyundai needs to adjust their radar to be able to look ahead 300-400 feet to identify traffic and adjust the cruise speed accordingly (as we all do as drivers when we see stopped traffic ahead).

If you want to have a "fun" time, set the ACC to 75 mph and head towards a stopped line of traffic off in the distance. The Kona will happily keep the speed up! By the time the radar picks up the traffic, it will IMMEDIATELY kick in with the front collision avoidance with all the alarms beeping and what not while you slam the brakes on. :)
 
That's the maximum! Why would someone use a lower setting? Anything less than that is a greater risk to rear end someone. At the driving school, I was taught to keep at least 3 seconds away from the vehicle in front of mine to ensure I could safely break in time. :)
 
Francois said:
That's the maximum! Why would someone use a lower setting? Anything less than that is a greater risk to rear end someone. At the driving school, I was taught to keep at least 3 seconds away from the vehicle in front of mine to ensure I could safely break in time. :)
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You just have to experiment with it in careful way for sure. Just always be alert. It works great in medium traffic I find especially on rural roads
 
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