Testing the V2L adapter for the MINI SE

teslarati97

teslarati97

Well-Known Member
So I tried the V2L adapter with the SE. A bit clunky at 28 lbs!

Things that worked:
  • Microwave
  • Heat gun
  • Level 1 EVSE at 12A
  • Air fryer
  • Electric kettle
Things that didn't work:
  • Microwave + air frying simultaneously
  • Didn't do my taxes

v2L.webp
 
Is that running on 12V? That’s amazing that you can draw >100A through that cigarette lighter port without a fuse blowing or something overheating. The wire to the plug alone looks like it would melt at 100A.
 
fizzit said:
Is that running on 12V? That’s amazing that you can draw >100A through that cigarette lighter port without a fuse blowing or something overheating. The wire to the plug alone looks like it would melt at 100A.
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It looks like that is a battery pack inverter that can charge off 12V in a car. The pack can handle the higher load and it will be charging from the car but not keeping up if the load is sustained.

I could be wrong, but it's a great solution to use the power stored in an EV.
 
DJCoopster said:
It looks like that is a battery pack inverter that can charge off 12V in a car. The pack can handle the higher load and it will be charging from the car but not keeping up if the load is sustained.

I could be wrong, but it's a great solution to use the power stored in an EV.
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A second alternator and battery was the mainstay for overlanding in lieu of intermittent solar PV. Honestly the 48V system (as opposed to 12V idle) could recharge the batteries within an hour of driving. Even several hybrid ICE and PHEVs have 1500W 120V plugs or in the case of the hybrid F-150 a 7.2kW pro power onboard generator output. The portable battery/inverter that I am using has a 1800W continuous and 2700W peak output. 28lbs for LFP is reasonable for ~0.8kWh usable.

For my camping use case (I also have solar PV + battery at home), the power output is more important than the capacity. Now I can finally ditch the propane by making the switch to induction and electric heat blankets to stay warm.
 
EDIT: based on the pic it's the EF ECOFLOW 1300?

What brand/model is it you have?

I have Ego lawn equipment with a 2.5, 5, and 7.5Ah battery and have thought about getting their inverter but it's over $500 so I've kept it on the backburner.
 
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I snagged the newly released Delta 2 at a 20% discount. For the second generation they switched to LFP and cut down the capacity from 1.3kWh to 1kWh (0.8-0.85kWh after efficiency losses). This is still enough for me to use a portable induction cooktop and an electric kettle while eliminating any ventilation requirements related to combustion.

Personally I'd skip that EGO nexus thing but you could DIY a small system or get the 30% federal ITC for a portable off-grid setup.
 
I’ve been using a Bluetti 2kWh unit for about 2 years now, first in our gas car and more recently our Tesla. We take a fridge/freezer unit on roads trips, powering it from the Bluetti and powering that off the 13v outlet in the trunk. Works great. Bulky though so we keep it in the sub trunk.
 
AndysComputer said:
I’ve been using a Bluetti 2kWh unit for about 2 years now, first in our gas car and more recently our Tesla. We take a fridge/freezer unit on roads trips, powering it from the Bluetti and powering that off the 13v outlet in the trunk. Works great. Bulky though so we keep it in the sub trunk.
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I looked into the AC200P, but it is a beast at 60.6lbs!
 
teslarati97 said:
I looked into the AC200P, but it is a beast at 60.6lbs!
Click to expand...

yeah we didn’t buy it for the car, it’s overkill. We intended to use it for power outages along with a bunch of its folding solar panels to run our home refrigerator etc for 24hrs+. But rather than sit unused in between power outages we figured it would be a useful on road trips, which it has been. I’m surprised it doesn’t drop through the trunk floor to be honest, lol…
 
A real V2L that connects to the Mini traction battery would be amazing but I’m guessing it would be very warranty-voiding. It seems like a 12V inverter from the cigarette lighter plug is only really a V2L if your load is less than 120W average.
 
So, an inverter? I had a 1000W inverter a long time ago, but I had to clamp it to the positive battery terminal and ground. But it was cheap!
 
I think that would be way better, that way you aren't bottlenecked by the fuse on the cigarette lighter plug which is probably 10A. The DC/DC that charges the 12V battery can probably put out at least twice that.
 
Supposedly the i3 DC-DC is rated for 2,500w continuous (page 62,) but not sure about ours. Every EV I've cared to check can handle ~1,000w directly off the 12v system. I've got my inverter just in case but haven't played with it yet on the SE.
 
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