Run Flat Tires

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Suspension changes to the SE are MINImal. :)

Height was raised a touch to give the battery a bit more ground clearance. Considering how lithium batteries sometimes react to being damaged, this is a somewhat prudent move. Burning cars are bad for sales... Mini already has a slew of different springs. Multiple ones for each model, depending on options and age. They seem to like to tailor them pretty finely. Shocks, on the other hand, are the same p/n across all f55/f56/f57. Only the SE gets different ones. I strongly suspect they are longer, but haven't measured them yet. Mounts, arms, hubs etc are common to other 55/56/57s

Subframes are different to accommodate the EV drivetrain at the front, battery at the back. Other than the height change, I suspect geometry was left as other F56s. If it was me at Mini, I'd have tweaked the inner mounts to position the roll centres and have roll camber change the same as with the regular F56s. Just jacking the car up would raise roll centres and make camber slightly more positive.

The SE has remarkably few changes from the ICE cars, BMW mostly did it from i3 parts and other Minis.

No, I was perplexed about changes to the SE's suspension mounts you described that were made after the "early SEs," and wondering when that change occurred (and wondering why). Thanks.
Early SEs had different rear arm front mounts, which could have altered ride height, but later ones use the same as all other F56s.
 
Many summer tyres can be damaged if you drive on the at all below 20F.
That's why I think the Goodyears on the car will not last long. Choice was drive the 1er without a radiator, the SE with summer tires or not go to work. Choice 3 was the smartest, but I am not the smartest. Had three slides in 5 miles, only one was a minor pucker.
 
That's why I think the Goodyears on the car will not last long.
Current miles: 52,428. I'm in my third winter with my SE, and the two summers were on my Goodyears. I drive on the snow tires about 4 months per year, or 33% of the time. So 67% of 52,428 is just over 35,000 miles. I do have to replace the Goodyears this spring, but I'm not complaining about how long they've lasted.
 
Current miles: 52,428. I'm in my third winter with my SE, and the two summers were on my Goodyears. I drive on the snow tires about 4 months per year, or 33% of the time. So 67% of 52,428 is just over 35,000 miles. I do have to replace the Goodyears this spring, but I'm not complaining about how long they've lasted.
But, have you driven on the Goodyears in sub zero weather? My winter tires are on a different car.
 
But, have you driven on the Goodyears in sub zero weather? My winter tires are on a different car.
Subzero? No. Sub-freezing, yes. I underestimated how long it would take to get my snow tire wheels (I special-ordered Spectre Grey Revolites) so I spent the first month of my first winter riding on my summer Goodyears on dry but below-freezing roads.
 
Subzero? No. Sub-freezing, yes. I underestimated how long it would take to get my snow tire wheels (I special-ordered Spectre Grey Revolites) so I spent the first month of my first winter riding on my summer Goodyears on dry but below-freezing roads.
Was -4 on my way to work in CO last week. Had no choice. I knew I was risking damaging the compound. I had the heat set to 65 and my range dropped by about 1/3 and my power was limited to 50%. I have too many sets of wheels and tires in the garage, so I dont want to have to sets for the SE
 
Do you put it up for winter? Summer-compounds are really only good down to around 55°F. All-seasons are considered “safe enough” down to around 40°F. If you have to drive a normal amount in a place where it’s consistently below that for months at a time, it’s wise to invest (the money and the storage space) in a set of dedicated winter tires.
 
My winters go on when it gets cold.
The summers go on when it stops being cold.
Maybe November to April here.

Tommm, are you going to use 200TW tyres on your Mini? I'm going to get RT660s for mine, on yet another set of wheels. :/
 
Do you put it up for winter? Summer-compounds are really only good down to around 55°F. All-seasons are considered “safe enough” down to around 40°F. If you have to drive a normal amount in a place where it’s consistently below that for months at a time, it’s wise to invest (the money and the storage space) in a set of dedicated winter tires.
I have a dedicated set of winter tires on the 1 series that was out of service with a bad radiator. Of course I being the rocket scientist that I am started the job before the cold snap, and of course there were snags that left me with the SE or the bus. I chose replacing tires instead of walking a half mile to the bus stop, etc.
 
My SE Sept 23 build came with run flat and nitrogen fill.
I believe that's the first US SE with run-flats on this forum so I have lots of questions.
  1. What size/make/model are your tires?
  2. How do they indicate they're run-flats?
  3. Do they have the star on them that indicates they're BMW OEM tires?
  4. What model of MINI wheels are wearing these run-flats?
  5. Does your SE have the tire-inflator/fix-it kit in the boot? (Run -flat cars don't)
  6. Did you order your SE or buy it off the dealer lot?
 
My winters go on when it gets cold.
The summers go on when it stops being cold.
Maybe November to April here.

Tommm, are you going to use 200TW tyres on your Mini? I'm going to get RT660s for mine, on yet another set of wheels. :/
Not sure. I have Koni sports, M3 control arms and additional camber on my 1, and the Cayman. I dont think my marriage can survive me playing with the suspension on the SE.
 
Not sure. I have Koni sports, M3 control arms and additional camber on my 1, and the Cayman. I dont think my marriage can survive me playing with the suspension on the SE.
I put Yoko v701s on my R53. Rolling resistance is a European C, so not too horrible. Life is a lot better than 200TW tyres. Grip is pretty good, wet and dry. They're summer only tyres, though. Might be a compromise between DD and cone dodging.

I have some GP/crash hubs to go on my SE. An extra 0.5° negative camber but doesn't take it out of GS.
One of the attractions of running in GS is that we're not allowed to spend too much money make many mods.
With the SE, we can't do diddly for the power, so are limited to suspension mods if we leave street stock.
If allowed to mess with transmission, i3 gearing would give better acceleration but bring top speed down to maybe 70mph...
 
Was -4 on my way to work in CO last week. Had no choice. I knew I was risking damaging the compound. I had the heat set to 65 and my range dropped by about 1/3 and my power was limited to 50%. I have too many sets of wheels and tires in the garage, so I dont want to have to sets for the SE
Well, throw out a set for a less important car. That's any other car :)
 
I put Yoko v701s on my R53. Rolling resistance is a European C, so not too horrible. Life is a lot better than 200TW tyres. Grip is pretty good, wet and dry. They're summer only tyres, though. Might be a compromise between DD and cone dodging.

I have some GP/crash hubs to go on my SE. An extra 0.5° negative camber but doesn't take it out of GS.
One of the attractions of running in GS is that we're not allowed to spend too much money make many mods.
With the SE, we can't do diddly for the power, so are limited to suspension mods if we leave street stock.
If allowed to mess with transmission, i3 gearing would give better acceleration but bring top speed down to maybe 70mph...
In case anyone else is thinking about crash hubs.
Do something I didn't do before I ordered mine.
Check the hub part number you have now.
Contrary to what the parts catalog said, mine had crash hubs already. The part number is behind the brake caliper. Crash hub part number ends in 849 and 850, depending on side.
 
Forgive my ignorance, and perhaps it's UK-continental disconnect, but what are "crash hubs"? No amount of Google-Fu is answering it for me.
 
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