Repair issues and fixes

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Hello All - I had a problem with a scraping noise when turning the steering wheel. The dealer repaired the issue yesterday - they replaced a worm shaft bearing. There is a technical service bulletin for it, so if you give this to your dealer, they should fix it under warranty: TSB#20-ST-003H-1.

You can't replace a bearing, or my bad battery using OTA Don't get me wrong, I am a fan of the idea. But scraping breaks or water in the trunk, flying off top, poor pint and poor fitting doors can't be either. I love Tesla and Elon but right now I just want my Kona back on the road.
 
Also, I have had my car into the dealer twice now for the tick-tick-tick noise when accelerating and decelerating - not yet resolved. Based on the experience of others with the same problem, the likely solution is replacement of the traction motor (existing motor is version 700, s/b replaced with 701, or possibly 702?), and replacement of the gear reduction unit. Dealer has been helpful, but says they can't replace anything without a code being thrown in their diagnostic system, which isn't happening. However, at the dealer's request I've opened a case directly with Hyundai, and I'll post with an update one way or another - will take a few weeks I am sure.
 
The difference between Tesla and legacy,it's a tech.company where it's adoption for OTA updates reflects this. Hyundai has the ability to do OTA if you go to their HMC website,it lists some of the 2020,2021 vehicles who will utilize it.Hyundai has been okay with the campaigns,and recalls,but it's not forthcoming with the details for these with owners. HMC hasn't demonstrated it's listening to owners who have actively offered feedback on the Kona electric.

I have a 2017 Model X,it had its issues.However,Tesla's use of crowd sourced data,and software driven environment fixes many issues.It can be proactive pulling all the data from its vehicles on the road.


I took a 2021 Model Y out for an over night test drive this month. I will say it's better than the Kona electric overall due to its ability to be updated via OTA, crowd sourced data utilization,and supercharging.Basics on the Y: chrome delete,heat pump;2021 model 3 same.

The Y's advanced ,beta FSD wasn't confidence building.I experienced situations while on the highway where I had to take control because the Y on beta FSD was a little erratic. Also,in beta FSD,the vehicle slowed down while on the highway at an over pass,dangerous at highway speeds because someone could've rear ended us. This is an improvement from when it used to STOP.
It doesn't have grab handles above the passenger doors,the rear 80 split is heavy to manually raise without any assisted integration.The Y's seats were more comfortable,more adjustable,and you can SAVE the driver setting.
The Y handled well,odd it has coil suspension.Kona has rear multi link which gives it a smoother road feel when you hit uneven pavement in my view. Overall,the Y's steering feedback,and handling is more European feel,stiffer.
Y's ability to auto park was great,made it parallel park,and reverse.Hyundai has included this in some of its 2020 vehicles.Why not in the Kona electric gen.1,missed opportunity.Y has a 360 camera view now which helps you see around your vehicle so you can avoid hitting someone,or something.
I took it though country roads,played with the auto high beams which were a little delayed at times.On the Kona, they have ALWAYS activated as they should. Headlights ,combined with the fog lamps,excellent on these dark roads,something Kona electric should have.
Rear view mirror, it's an adjustment due to the narrow rear window.I had to get into traffic so I can see in order to be able to adjust it during the night run.
Supercharging the Y at a V2 with about 15% SOC,took a bio break in a fast food place near by.In about 10 minutes, there was about 200km/124miles added.

It comes down to what you want for your dollar.

I wish it would be that simple. I have friends driving Mercedes and BMWs. Their repair needs are high and so are the bills. We drove Toyotas (Tercel, RAV4, Camry, 2xPrius) for over 20 years and had no problems - just changed the oil and other fluids and service the breaks when needed. (Forgot windshield wipers - blades only)
 
I can confirm - Toyotas are really reliable. However, the ICE HMC (and more specifically the Kia, and I drive or have already driven 4 different models of Venga, Carens and Soul -- or my children are currently driving them), are as reliable as Toyotas I drove before. So far, in my Kias have literally broken down only single little things, without affecting the continuity of use. I hope that the problems of the Kona electric are only childhood diseases, especially as they are quite precisely defined and concern actually three things: a 12V battery, a motor and reduction gear unit, and a high voltage battery. It is a pity that HMC services are not always able to rise to the occasion and deal with breakdowns with minimal inconvenience for customers.
 
I can confirm - Toyotas are really reliable. However, the ICE HMC (and more specifically the Kia, and I drive or have already driven 4 different models of Venga, Carens and Soul -- or my children are currently driving them), are as reliable as Toyotas I drove before. So far, in my Kias have literally broken down only single little things, without affecting the continuity of use. I hope that the problems of the Kona electric are only childhood diseases, especially as they are quite precisely defined and concern actually three things: a 12V battery, a motor and reduction gear unit, and a high voltage battery. It is a pity that HMC services are not always able to rise to the occasion and deal with breakdowns with minimal inconvenience for customers.

Thanks for the uplifting note. I hope you are right. For the few short weeks (6!) we drove our Kona EV we fell in love with it very quickly. Beside the range it is more solidly built than our iMiEV was. Mind you during 6 years of ownership we only took Bubbles to the garage once for servicing the breaks. The curse of regen breaking. Not enough use of the mechanical breaks help them to corrode.
 
You can't replace a bearing, or my bad battery using OTA Don't get me wrong, I am a fan of the idea. But scraping breaks or water in the trunk, flying off top, poor pint and poor fitting doors can't be either.
Why I am holding off on Y.Difference,Tesla's ability to do OTA includes proactive diagnosis where they message you to bring your car in if a hardware fix is required.Where a ranger can do most repairs at your office,or home.
 
I can confirm - Toyotas are really reliable. However, the ICE HMC (and more specifically the Kia, and I drive or have already driven 4 different models of Venga, Carens and Soul -- or my children are currently driving them), are as reliable as Toyotas I drove before. So far, in my Kias have literally broken down only single little things, without affecting the continuity of use. I hope that the problems of the Kona electric are only childhood diseases, especially as they are quite precisely defined and concern actually three things: a 12V battery, a motor and reduction gear unit, and a high voltage battery. It is a pity that HMC services are not always able to rise to the occasion and deal with breakdowns with minimal inconvenience for customers.
My cousin's Corolla took them through university ,and another 7 years after since they traveled about 2 weeks out of a month away from home.It got taken out by a hit and run. Me,my first,and last Lexus was a lemon Toyota took back because they couldn't fix their MCU that controlled things like: hvac,SMX,Nav.,PHEV settings. I have never owned a hyundai product pre the Kona electric,and was inspired by a nieghbor's ICE Soul,strangers' Ionq EV - especially ones used for UBER,Lyft.
 
I wish it would be that simple. I have friends driving Mercedes and BMWs. Their repair needs are high and so are the bills. We drove Toyotas (Tercel, RAV4, Camry, 2xPrius) for over 20 years and had no problems - just changed the oil and other fluids and service the breaks when needed. (Forgot windshield wipers - blades only)
BMW, you lease,and give it back.Mercedes,not the best build quality either.Audi continues with its electrical problems,surfacing in their etron.Friend's late model Q5 required a major engine part replacement in year 4;their extended warranty took care of the pieces not covered under standard warranty.Another friend's SL roadster's transmission seized/slipped when accelerating;Mercedes couldn't repair it until the warranty expired:rolleyes:While another's 1 year old Cayenne GTS engine couldn't be "fixed,"some unfortunate buyer's now stuck with this trade. Porsche went in for an approximate $3500 repair and manitenance,dealership called,and needed $9000 to deal with the Carrera 4S cabriolet.My problematic Audi thankfully had an extended warranty,and they still couldn't fix the warranty covered electrical issues.

For the German brands,people should know they may want to buy an OEM extended warranty if not leasing.Where standard warranty maintenance can be about $1800,or more as the vehicle ages. I don't miss ICE.
 
German premium class cars tempt with luxury, modern technology and design and performance. However, there is always a quid pro quo. We say that if you can afford the purchase, you must be able to afford repairs, and the abbreviation BMW maliciously develops in Polish as "you will have expenses". However, there are many people for whom it is not a problem big enough to give up with Mercedes, Audi or BMW in favor of less prestigious but more reliable brands. And that's been the case for years. Recently, however, you hear more and more about the growing problems of German car manufacturers. Probably the quality issues have something to do with it.
 
My cousin's Corolla took them through university ,and another 7 years after since they traveled about 2 weeks out of a month away from home.It got taken out by a hit and run. Me,my first,and last Lexus was a lemon Toyota took back because they couldn't fix their MCU that controlled things like: hvac,SMX,Nav.,PHEV settings. I have never owned a hyundai product pre the Kona electric,and was inspired by a nieghbor's ICE Soul,strangers' Ionq EV - especially ones used for UBER,Lyft.
We have run 5 Toyotas in the family fleet in past 20 years, still own 3 of them with average age of 18 years , just routine maintenance items. I just sold our second 1997 Rav4 to our insurance company, written off for a cracked bumper/headlight. Nonetheless settled on $2500 for a well used 24 year old car. It owed me nothing but sad to see it go. These cars are amazing, they will start and they run on 2 cylinders as I learned after a rodent recently ate the ignition wires.
 
German premium class cars tempt with luxury, modern technology and design and performance. However, there is always a quid pro quo. We say that if you can afford the purchase, you must be able to afford repairs, and the abbreviation BMW maliciously develops in Polish as "you will have expenses". However, there are many people for whom it is not a problem big enough to give up with Mercedes, Audi or BMW in favor of less prestigious but more reliable brands. And that's been the case for years. Recently, however, you hear more and more about the growing problems of German car manufacturers. Probably the quality issues have something to do with it.
Tomek You can write to me in Polish I do own 2020 Kona Ev Ultimate I absolutely Love it I live in New York State. This is my 3 EV Janusz.
 
Also, I have had my car into the dealer twice now for the tick-tick-tick noise when accelerating and decelerating - not yet resolved. Based on the experience of others with the same problem, the likely solution is replacement of the traction motor (existing motor is version 700, s/b replaced with 701, or possibly 702?), and replacement of the gear reduction unit. Dealer has been helpful, but says they can't replace anything without a code being thrown in their diagnostic system, which isn't happening. However, at the dealer's request I've opened a case directly with Hyundai, and I'll post with an update one way or another - will take a few weeks I am sure.
Can the dealer not hear the ticking when road testing? It's how I got the gear reduction unit replaced,otherwise no code,nor would I expect it with such a component unless it renders your vehicle inoperable,crashes it.
 
Can the dealer not hear the ticking when road testing? It's how I got the gear reduction unit replaced,otherwise no code,nor would I expect it with such a component unless it renders your vehicle inoperable,crashes it.
Remember too, you need to have both the reduction gear and motor replaced. When they did my reduction gear, the clicking came back after a while. Then they replaced the motor and it has been good ever since (about 16,000 kms ago).
 
Remember too, you need to have both the reduction gear and motor replaced. When they did my reduction gear, the clicking came back after a while. Then they replaced the motor and it has been good ever since (about 16,000 kms ago).
The trouble is getting your dealer to do things you feel may be best practice but he does not or the direction they get from Hyundai is inconsistent. I first heard the ticking noise at 7,000 Km but it was like pulling teeth to get dealer to do something. They finally replaced only my motor at 17,000km, now at 40,000km I am pretty sure I am hearing a faint ticking under certain conditions. I have learned the hard way just to ignore it and wait for it to get worse because that is exactly what my dealer will tell me :(
 
Well, if mine starts ticking again, that will again change my view of my Kona and Hyundai. I had both the motor and reduction drive changed. Have been pretty happy with it lately.

Weird that some never get it, even with high mileage now.
 
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