A lot has to do with typical load in the car also. Heavily loaded cars need more air pressure than lightly loaded cars. The door jamb recommendation is really just an average, and the true ideal pressure may vary for various cars and usages. Someone who usually drives empty with driver only may get by with lower air pressure than the jamb says, and if you blindly follow the jamb you may see an overinflation wear pattern. Whereas a car that is usually driven with 4 people and a trunk load of junk may need a few pounds more than the jamb says to prevent shoulder wear. Extensive high speed highway driving usually requires different pressures than urban stop and go driving for maximum tire life. Lots of turns and running around town will wear tires much faster than an interstate car. And some parts of the country have much more abrasive aggregates in their roadways than others due to the type of stuff that comes out of the local gravel pits, which can make a huge difference in tire life. Concrete usually eats tires faster than asphalt. But if you live near steel mills your asphalt may have steel slag mixed in, and that can be VERY hard on tires.
Anyway this is why I measure my tire tread depth at each rotation, and may change my air pressure accordingly. 3 measurements on each tire...one at each shoulder and one dead center. A tire that is wearing more in the center than at each shoulder is overinflated for my usage. So if the door jamb says 36 I might go down to 32 for a while and see how things balance out. Vice versa if shoulders are wearing faster than center. And if inside shoulder is wearing more than outside shoulder, or vice versa? Or if featheredging is noticed? These issues mean you need an alignment and this has nothing to do with tire pressures.
The 36 on the jamb tag of the Clarity seems a touch stout for my usage but it is very close. I'm usually keeping them at 34 to 35...usually 1 average sized person in car, no luggage, mixed driving. For heavily loaded vacations of extensive high speed interstate I'll crank it up to about 37 or 38, then let air out to back it down to 35 after I return.
My last Accord I always had to run it about 3 PSI higher than the jamb for even wear. Same for my truck... about 4 PSI higher than the jamb says. When I put a heavy trailer on it and load up the bed for a long vacation I might go 10 psi higher than jamb on back tires only. My Mazda likes about 2 psi higher than jamb.
Temp swings make a considerable difference. This is why I check it every 2 weeks. Mileage is irrelevant. As winter approaches you must add air. As summer approaches you must let air out. And if you check/set your tire pressures on an 80 degree day and usually drive during the 50 degree nights because you work night shift, you're consistently under inflated by about 3 to 4 pounds.
The door jamb is not always exactly right. But it's usually close and if you don't want to get too awful scientific about it, use that number but make sure they are checked when the tire temp is about the average air temp of when you're driving. Don't check them when the sun has been baking one side of the car and not the other, or immediately after a long drive...your numbers will be wrong.
Buddy of mine worked at a Chevy dealer as a service tech. He often talks about a couple many years ago who purchased a brand new custom conversion van and kept wearing out the front tires super fast and uneven. They kept coming back for new front tires every 10K and making warranty claims to get it fixed because alignment was clearly messed up. However alignment was checked several times and found within spec and pressures good, but front tires just would get chewed up super fast. Well...it turns out this van was owned by some rather heavy people. Husband and wife each tipped the scale near 350 pounds and they always traveled together, each sitting in a captains chair up front above each front tire. Once the savvy alignment tech learned this important detail from the service adviser, he brought the van in and drove it up on the alignment rack, and then piled up 600 pounds of concrete bags on the front floorboards and seats from the local hardware store. THEN, with this load in place and front suspension notably squatted down, he changed alignment to Chevy spec. He also bumped up air pressure on front tires up by about 8 PSI and they carefully marked the customer's files with these new specs for future reference. With this combination, problem was largely solved. The factory specs and recommendations simply did not work for this couple's van, because the two of them were far too heavy for those specs to work correctly. My friend also was building a deck at the time so the concrete was put to good use after the alignment was completed...
This became a long essay but summary is this: If you monitor your tire wear carefully by taking tread depth measurements at each rotation, and make minor permanent pressure adjustments, or even alignment adjustments, based on the wear patterns you start to see, you can definitely make your current and future sets of tires last longer. If you don't want to bother with it, that's fine, you'll just have to buy new tires maybe 10K miles sooner than I will....