Locking the charging cable to the car

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daar

daar

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I live in a townhome and need to charge the car using an extension cord and the Honda provided EV charger at 110V. I will be using a cable strip cover to prevent any tripping hazards; and am in the process of getting an approval from the HOA for overnight charging. Since the cord and the cable will be out in the open during the night, I am looking for a solution which involves locking the charging cable to the car and the extension cord to the electric outlet. I have seen Prius Prime and Nissan Leaf, where the cord is locked to the car. Unfortunately, our Honda Clarity doesn’t have any such mechanism. Appreciate if anyone has any suggestions for locking the charging cable to car.
 
daar said:
I live in a townhome and need to charge the car using an extension cord and the Honda provided EV charger at 110V. I will be using a cable strip cover to prevent any tripping hazards; and am in the process of getting an approval from the HOA for overnight charging. Since the cord and the cable will be out in the open during the night, I am looking for a solution which involves locking the charging cable to the car and the extension cord to the electric outlet. I have seen Prius Prime and Nissan Leaf, where the cord is locked to the car. Unfortunately, our Honda Clarity doesn’t have any such mechanism. Appreciate if anyone has any suggestions for locking the charging cable to car.
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I too have this problem that’s especially bad where I live with all the drug fueled copper thieves around.
If you have a garage door you can park in front of you can do what I’m doing. I use a 12ga extension cord to get the charger just inside the door and then gently close the garage door on the charger cable by stopping it just before it fully closes. This way the large rectangular block next to 110v plug prevents it from being pulled under the 1/2” gap.
If your entire charger must be outside (no garage door), I do have one suggestion for you to consider.
There is a pet tie out spiral stake that might help. It is not the cheap one with a triangular handle that you screw into the ground (too easy to unscrew). This one screws in using a tool or removable part (can’t remember) and just leaves a connecting ring above ground that is more tamper resistant. You would then attach a few separate loops of aircraft cable around the charger cable between charge handle and e-brick so they can’t slide off. (Just big enough to accommodate a padlock shacke and not damage the cable). Then padlock the loops to the stake. Would probably prevent a causal snatch and grab thief but cooper thieves might just cut it off. But at least it would slow them down.
The aircraft cable and compression barrels to make loops are available at the big box stores. You are supposed to use a crimping tool to connect them. I got a cheap hydraulic one for $20 from China, but you can make do with a hammer.
If all this is going to be outside, you really need a NEMA suitable for wet locations cover on the receptacle on the townhome if it’s exposed to rain. I would also get a cover for the extension cord to charger connection.
Good luck and let us know how you decide to handle this.
 
Also, some 1772 handles have a small hole under the button for a luggage style lock. Keeps the button from getting pressed, so no disconnect. Not sure I'd want to trust mine to a luggage lock though.
 
AlanSqB said:
Cable-less method. Get one of the padlocks with the extra long shackle. Pull cable around behind the front tire and up to the plug. Gather the cable from both sides in front of the tire and put the lock around both.
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Ha! I break into your car, take your jack, and... wait, what the !!!! You don’t have a jack! Well, watch me cut your cable for the copper.....ZZZZZT!!
Time to call the coroner.
 
Fortunately/unfortunately in that scenario the GFi would prevent injury as designed. The main purpose of the EVSE is to provide a safety system for a cable and plug that are subject to weather, damage and wear.
 
KentuckyKen said:
That is clever, Sriyad ! So I’ll use your method to amend my post to omit the aircraft cable loops and directly attach charging cable to ground post directly by a padlock.
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This is a great solution
KentuckyKen said:
That is clever, Sriyad ! So I’ll use your method to amend my post to omit the aircraft cable loops and directly attach charging cable to ground post directly by a padlock.
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Thanks a bunch for these ideas!
I couldn't have thought of this. I really like the idea of locking the charging cable with a bicycle cable and lock. At the other end, I am thinking of adding a cover with a lock to the electric outlet to secure the extension cord to the wall. As such I am a safe area, but this is out of abundance of caution. I am also thinking of adding a Nest Outdoor floodlight with camera, which turn ON in case of movement in the night. I will upload a pic after I have the entire setup established.
 
AlanSqB said:
Also, some 1772 handles have a small hole under the button for a luggage style lock. Keeps the button from getting pressed, so no disconnect. Not sure I'd want to trust mine to a luggage lock though.
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AlanSqB, I never even noticed that hole for locking the handle to the car until you pointed it out! A small MasterLock padlock fits nicely and takes up little room in the glove box and is so easy to use. This is now my method for preventing snatch and run when I have to use it at a public outlet.
Thanks!!
 
I haven't heard of anyone having their cables stolen yet for any ev. I'm not saying it hasn't happened, but has it?
 
WOW! That is ridiculous. Very overpriced for an L1. Honestly if I could score $900 I'd sell mine in a hot minute, it's not needed and I can make a replacement (with 120/240v capability) for a couple hundred.

I spent about 2 minutes looking at it as I was taking the plastic off and putting it in the trunk. That was the last time I paid any attention to it since purchase.

Yesterday, I was looking at it and it does seem to have some sort of modular plug on the 120V side. It looks like it has some sort of a twist lock mechanism that may allow for different plugs to be attached. I haven't seen this particular EVSE before so I'm not sure where they're sourcing it from but it's pretty substantial. I may, if I can find some free time soon, open it up and see what's inside. I'm wondering if it might be an easy conversion to 240 (for those who know what they're doing). The Japanese manufactures sure love those tri-wing screws, hope I can find my tri-wing bit set.

Too much going on at work and with a potential move to WA and trying to find a job there to have any hobby time right now so this and the heated steering wheel research are on hold for now.
 
I was thinking loud. Will it be possible to keep the entire/most part of charger in the car , keeping the two window open by 1/2 inch , plugging the car at one end ( Charger port end) , attaching extension cord , long enough and then take extension cord to garage ? This way only extension cable will be outside unless some one breaks in the car windows...???????
 
KentuckyKen said:
What about when it rains?
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True we need to watch that part , but other then that do you see any issue ? Obviously we need portable charger.

One another question I have is that now can be able to pre condition the car with portable 110v charger as supplied or we need to order another one for 240V portable one ? , Thanks
 
You can only precondition with a level 2 charger. With a level 1, you would have to wait until charging has stopped and then precondition off the HV battery which will significantly reduce your EV range.

Also, I think you said you will have to do this with and extension cord. If so, a 40 amp extension cord is a specialty item and will be very expensive if you try to do this with a level 2 charger. If there is part of your house close enough to the car, it may be better to add a level 2 receptacle and skip the extension cord.

Here’s one way I thought of to lock the extension cord and charger. (Thanks to Sriyad and AlanSqB whose ideas I use here)
1 Lock the Honda charge handle to Car with small padlock through hole in release lever.
2 Lock extension cord to charger cord with padlock large enough to go around both extension cord and charger cord by making a loop close to where they plug in to each other. Pick lock that’s not to large to slip over plug/receptacle ends and not so small it pinched the cables.

I’m not sure about being able to lock at the house outlet. All the lockable covers in my big box hardware stores have plastic covers with holes for a padlock. I could just yank on whatever’s plugged into it and off it goes. Remember to get a cover rated for wet locations and a cover for where charger and extension cord plug together (that last one is cheap).

Good luck and let us know how you get it to work.
 
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If someone does snatch your EVSE, don't replace with a $1200 factory EVSE, pick up an L1 Clipper Creek or any other L1 from a used EV.

I think cable snatching depends largely on where you live and if people can walk by your vehicle or not. Most places are not issues and prices for copper are much lower now making it less lucrative.
 
Viking79 said:
If someone does snatch your EVSE, don't replace with a $1200 factory EVSE, pick up an L1 Clipper Creek or any other L1 from a used EV.

I think cable snatching depends largely on where you live and if people can walk by your vehicle or not. Most places are not issues and prices for copper are much lower now making it less lucrative.
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Good points. But lower copper prices are being offset by lower drug prices. My LEOs have told me that synthetic marijuana compounds and meth in my area are so cheap now that addicts are stealing copper and even breaking into cars just for small items because that will give them enough money for one or two hits.
 
KentuckyKen said:
You can only precondition with a level 2 charger. With a level 1, you would have to wait until charging has stopped and then precondition off the HV battery which will significantly reduce your EV range.

Also, I think you said you will have to do this with and extension cord. If so, a 40 amp extension cord is a specialty item and will be very expensive if you try to do this with a level 2 charger. If there is part of your house close enough to the car, it may be better to add a level 2 receptacle and skip the extension cord.

Here’s one way I thought of to lock the extension cord and charger. (Thanks to Sriyad and AlanSqB whose ideas I use here)
1 Lock the Honda charge handle to Car with small padlock through hole in release lever.
2 Lock extension cord to charger cord with padlock large enough to go around both extension cord and charger cord by making a loop close to where they plug in to each other. Pick lock that’s not to large to slip over plug/receptacle ends and not so small it pinched the cables.

I’m not sure about being able to lock at the house outlet. All the lockable covers in my big box hardware stores have plastic covers with holes for a padlock. I could just yank on whatever’s plugged into it and off it goes. Remember to get a cover rated for wet locations and a cover for where charger and extension cord plug together (that last one is cheap).

Good luck and let us know how you get it to work.
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Thanks, waiting for delivery...
 
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