L2 NACS to CCS-1 adapter?
- Thread starter bwilson4web
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I think you meant "the J1772 might be in use", not J1773 (old Magne Charge).
It is my understanding J1172 adapters only access the PP and CP pins along with the L1 & L2 AC pins while the J3400 to CCS1 adapter uses the PP, CP, PE pins plus the DC+ and DC- Pins and have blanks where the L1 and L2 AC pins would otherwise exist.
So the answer would be no, one would need the second L2 adaptor if at a destination type AC charger. I have the Lectron (NACS/J1772) version and it works well for that purpose.
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I was afraid of that which is why I asked. I'll check with BMW next week and see if they have one in their parts department. If inspection shows limited pins, walk away.
Are there any NACS-to-CCS adapters that have all of the pins?
Bob Wilson
Are there any NACS-to-CCS adapters that have all of the pins?
Bob Wilson
Upon further reflection, the normally AC pins would be exposed to the fast DC voltage. Depending on the circuit, at a minimum the expected, 4 diode bridge might have one pair conductive and the other pair not. The switching boost power supply to the battery might fry or the parallel power path do bad things to battery.
A NACS-to-J1772 makes sense but the ZREX makes 50 kW, fast DC charging a joke.
Bob Wilson
A NACS-to-J1772 makes sense but the ZREX makes 50 kW, fast DC charging a joke.
Bob Wilson
Keith Smith
Well-Known Member
Is there an actual separate 4-way bridge in the tesla charging that is in play under a DCFC scenario? 350-odd amps is a lot of current, it's going to generate some heat passing thru a solid state component.
My 2019 Tesla L2 charging is limited to 31-32 A. But if they use switching MOSFETs for high efficiency rectification, they would not have a 'zero' passing voltage to turn off. The smoke could escape.
Bob Wilson
Keith Smith
Well-Known Member
I really want to see 'home' or small scale DC'FC' charging. I think NACS/J3400 is going to make this a thing long term. There is no reason you can't slow(er) charge DC. No different than plugging in your phone or other DC devices, and allows trivial scaling as overall supply improves. Hang small 25-50KW units all over, mark them based on available capacity, bump it up if capacity increases.
AliExpress has you covered. I copied two of the electrical specs and pasted them at the bottom--look, it can run on 120V input power (60 Amps could give you 7kW)! Note that you have to buy two of these DC EV chargers to get this low price.
Puppethead
Well-Known Member
That seems pointless, you're buying an AC-to-DC converter when the EV already has one built in.
Keith Smith
Well-Known Member
The objective would be a single-phase 100A unit that could pump out 24KW (120A breaker), or maybe 240/80 for 19KW (100A Breaker). this would be to take advantage of a solar setup without resorting to 3-phase input. With one more inverter I could output 150A, so an 80A charge is not out of the question. and could even offer charging at (say) 15KW /62A charging for a neighbor at twice what most of the cars will do on an L2. I'd like to beef up my home storage, to 100KWH, and I'm rockin around 27KW of panels. which can actually hit well over 20 on a nice day in summer. Sell off excess to Uber/Lyft Bolts.
My built-in AC-to-DC chargers are current limited:
My plan is to charge the EVs when there is excess solar power. So I'll schedule their charging to start at the peak, daylight hours, before any free electrons head to the grid.
Bob Wilson
- 7.2 kW, 30 A - 2017 BMW i3-REx
- 7.4 kW, 31 A - 2019 Tesla Model 3
- 50 kW, 125 A - 2017 BMW i3-REx
- 178 kW, 445 A - 2019 Tesla Model 3
My plan is to charge the EVs when there is excess solar power. So I'll schedule their charging to start at the peak, daylight hours, before any free electrons head to the grid.
Bob Wilson
Keith Smith
Well-Known Member
I'm actually doing this based on SOC... Today for example, I plugged in a car before leaving. Since the batteries were more charged up than needed I bled off excess into the EV until a little after 0940. Then around 11:30 my SOC caught up to the desired SOC, and I started the charge back up. By 1215 solar output had completely caught up, and charging ramped up full blast until it completed a little before 1300.
I have this on a sliding scale like 35% to 90% SOC weighted. The preference would be to have a steeper charge, ie wait until you actually hit 95% then funnel 15KW or more to the vehicle, allowing me to optimize for maximum SOC and not throw away any power. The steeper I can ramp up the charge the easier to guarantee close to 100% SOC when the sun goes down without throwing away any power.
Keith Smith
Well-Known Member
@bwilson4web I meant to mention. openevse has a reasonable api. I custom wrote everything for fun, but your going to want an evse you can toy with. Good luck with the solar. Honestly I'd look at the EG4 12000XP (no grid tie) with a minimal battery pack and panels. Use the builtin transfer switch to drive a critical loads panel. 50A output is a good starting point, and the box is under $3k. Low overhead, and you can expand it easily as you catch the solar disease.
I appreciate the suggestion. Even though a retired engineer, in this case, I'm going with the contractor design. There are somethings best outsourced. <GRINS>
Bob Wilson