Issues with a new EVSE (charger) - Any input

[Tony S]

Regarding a Grizzl-e EVSE that I just installed on a 50 Amps dedicated circuit in my garage. It boots-up fine and gives the standby blue light; but the first time I plugged it to charge a VW ID.4 I got flashing red light on the charger and would not charge the car. It’s virtually impossible to contact the company for technical help. Any suggestions?
Planning on returning the unit in the next few days and find another EVSE.
P.S. The NEMA 14-50 plug delivers a solid 245 Volts, and the charger is set for 40 Amps charging.

 

[bwilson4web]

Where in Florida?

Bob Wilson

 

[Puppethead]

Do you happen to have a GFCI on your circuit? The Grizzl-E (like most EVSE's) has its own and double GFCI doesn't always work well.

 

[DucRider]

Also worth double checking the ground.
Each leg to ground should give you a solid 120v. A bad ground will cause an error.

You didn't specify a model, but I assume you followed the instructions in the manual to reset after a fault, and/or get the fault reason/codes/status thru the app (depends on model).

 

[Tony S]

Also worth double checking the ground.
Each leg to ground should give you a solid 120v. A bad ground will cause an error.

You didn't specify a model, but I assume you followed the instructions in the manual to reset after a fault, and/or get the fault reason/codes/status thru the app (depends on model).

Absolutely right! The ground wire is not connected (either at the breaker or the plug). I’m getting 120V on both sides when connected to neutral but not to ground. Saved the new charger from going back, thanks!

 

[DucRider]

Absolutely right! The ground wire is not connected (either at the breaker or the plug). I’m getting 120V on both sides when connected to neutral but not to ground. Saved the new charger from going back, thanks!

Glad it was that easy.
While you are at it, double check all the connections. Even slightly loose screws on the breaker connections can cause a lot of heat with a continuous device like an EVSE. Same goes for the connections at the 14-50R.

 

[Tony S]

Glad it was that easy.
While you are at it, double check all the connections. Even slightly loose screws on the breaker connections can cause a lot of heat with a continuous device like an EVSE. Same goes for the connections at the 14-50R.

Both the neutral and ground wires are connected to the neutral bus bar in the panel (this is the main panel, not a sub panel - was told this is OK). P.S. the voltage between each leg and ground is only 7V. I suspect we may have to find another ground at the panel; sure hope we don’t have a defective bare wire ground in the 6 gauge cable.

 

[DucRider]

Both the neutral and ground wires are connected to the neutral bus bar in the panel (this is the main panel, not a sub panel - was told this is OK). P.S. the voltage between each leg and ground is only 7V. I suspect we may have to find another ground at the panel; sure hope we don’t have a defective bare wire ground in the 6 gauge cable.

The neutral and grounding bus bars should be bonded in the main panel. Have you checked the ground on other circuits? Might help point you towards the issue.

 

[Tony S]

The neutral and grounding bus bars should be bonded in the main panel. Have you checked the ground on other circuits? Might help point you towards the issue.

Thanks, at this point I’ll let a professional electrician get involved. As you said, a lot of current will be passing through the circuit while I’m asleep ………

 

[hobbit]

*7* volts leg to ground?? You have a serious problem, that's basically no ground at all. Your
meter is probably seeing capacitive drag of a completely non-connected wire.

_H*

 

[Tony S]

Thanks, at this point I’ll let a professional electrician get involved. As you said, a lot of current will be passing through the circuit while I’m asleep ………

Pinpointed the ground problem to not properly connected to the ground screw on the NEMA 14-50.