Honda Service Express Bulletins for 2018 Clarity PHEV

  • Thread starter Thread starter AnthonyW
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I got my first service done at 6519 miles. It was only warranty work. I asked them to do -18-69,18-79,
(18-91,18-90,18-89,18-96),18-97
They only did (18-91,18-90,18-89,18-96)

When I got the car back it still showed 1000 on HV range. So went back and showed it to them. The mechanic initially argues .. oh we did everything. I insisted that is not correct. Finally had another mechanic who work on it look at it. Took the car again and fixed it. Apparently he had not completed the complete step on software update.
The HV range immediately showed 357 on full tank.
These folks are not used to servicing Clarity and dont even know what the displays show. That was the reason I waited for so long going to dealer even though I bought the car last Feb.

The SB numbers are all jumbled up. 89 says climate control unit on dealer invoice whereas honda published that to be 90.

Hope that was all I needed to do.
 
JKroll said:
I got my first service done at 6519 miles. It was only warranty work. I asked them to do -18-69,18-79,
(18-91,18-90,18-89,18-96),18-97
They only did (18-91,18-90,18-89,18-96)

When I got the car back it still showed 1000 on HV range. So went back and showed it to them. The mechanic initially argues .. oh we did everything. I insisted that is not correct. Finally had another mechanic who work on it look at it. Took the car again and fixed it. Apparently he had not completed the complete step on software update.
The HV range immediately showed 357 on full tank.
These folks are not used to servicing Clarity and dont even know what the displays show. That was the reason I waited for so long going to dealer even though I bought the car last Feb.

The SB numbers are all jumbled up. 89 says climate control unit on dealer invoice whereas honda published that to be 90.

Hope that was all I needed to do.
Click to expand...
Yes, the SBs are a jumbled mess. They look like they were titled by a crazy person on a weeklong coffee binge.
 
JKroll said:
When I got the car back it still showed 1000 on HV range. So went back and showed it to them. The mechanic initially argues .. oh we did everything. I insisted that is not correct. Finally had another mechanic who work on it look at it. Took the car again and fixed it. Apparently he had not completed the complete step on software update.
The HV range immediately showed 357 on full tank.
Click to expand...
I had asked about this in another thread and didn't get an answer--when I took mine in for the HV range fix it didn't actually start showing accurate numbers until after a ~2000 mile mostly-gas road trip, and I wasn't sure whether that was normal or because they didn't do the range fix correctly.

Looks like the latter. The question I guess is whether that final step is just resetting the calculation, so it will naturally fix itself eventually given enough time, or if that step is required to fix the calculation. I guess I'll find out the next time I put gas in my car if it jumps back to 1000.
 
M.M. said:
I had asked about this in another thread and didn't get an answer--when I took mine in for the HV range fix it didn't actually start showing accurate numbers until after a ~2000 mile mostly-gas road trip, and I wasn't sure whether that was normal or because they didn't do the range fix correctly.

Looks like the latter. The question I guess is whether that final step is just resetting the calculation, so it will naturally fix itself eventually given enough time, or if that step is required to fix the calculation. I guess I'll find out the next time I put gas in my car if it jumps back to 1000.
Click to expand...

The fix is immediate. Your range went down because of the increased gas usage on your long trip. The issue will return as return to driving primarily in EV mode.


Sent from my iPhone using Inside EVs
 

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@AnthonyW, you have truly earned Clarity Demi-god status. When is your super hero movie coming out?
Only thing left for you to conquer is a bobble head and action figure. I’m calling Mattel. However, I’m still waiting for the royalty checks for being the inspiration for Barbie’s beau, so don’t hold your breath for financial remuneration. You’ll have to settle for all our heart felt thanks.
 
Viking79 said:
Looks like the car can heat the battery with engine coolant even in US model without battery heater. Good to know.
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Really? It seems odd that no one has posted any evidence of this actually happening.

Looks like this article focuses on cooling, not heating. The lowest temperature I see is 0°C.
 
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This may answer a recent phenomenon that I found strange. I went to a meeting the other day about 7 miles away. I drove in ECON/EV w with a full battery. I took the hilly route. The temperature was in the 20sF. The car ran on electric only all the way and I heated with the seat heater.

About 3 hours later I came home. There was more than 1/2 Doc still in the battery. The temperature had dropped to 11F. I took the flat road home. Everything else was the same, but despite the fact that there was plenty of battery and it was in ECON the ICE ran so constantly that i had to check to maken sure I had no put HV on by mistake. The instrument panel should that only ECON was on.

I can only conclude that the ICE was running to heat the battery. Finally I turnerdnthe car heater on since I decided that if the battery was going to be coddled with heat from the engine, I might as well too.

This was the way my Plugin Prius would behave on a cold morning even when the battery was full y and we were running down hill--battery coddling only, not driving the wheels. None of the gauges ever showed that the ICE was running, you could just hear it.
 
MNSteve said:
Really? It seems odd that no one has posted any evidence of this actually happening.

Looks like this article focuses on cooling, not heating. The lowest temperature I see is 0°C.
Click to expand...

It really explains the behavior I see, and how they protect the battery from cold damage. The docs definitely focus on cooling, but the table in the 2nd PDF clearly shows warming at 0 C as well. This is a battery temp of 0 C, which is hard to reach unless car is cold soaked.

Parking in my attached, but unheated garage the temp generally stays in the -5 to +5 C range unless it is sub -15 or -20 C outside, and driving and charging the car will warm battery too. That large mass doesn't change temp quickly.

I still prefer to also have electric battery heater as it will improve your range significantly due to warmer battery. Cold batteries can't put out much power anyway, might as well warm it with coolant.
 
Viking79 said:
It really explains the behavior I see, and how they protect the battery from cold damage. The docs definitely focus on cooling, but the table in the 2nd PDF clearly shows warming at 0 C as well. This is a battery temp of 0 C, which is hard to reach unless car is cold soaked.

Parking in my attached, but unheated garage the temp generally stays in the -5 to +5 C range unless it is sub -15 or -20 C outside, and driving and charging the car will warm battery too. That large mass doesn't change temp quickly.

I still prefer to also have electric battery heater as it will improve your range significantly due to warmer battery. Cold batteries can't put out much power anyway, might as well warm it with coolant.
Click to expand...

See table, if coolant is warmer than a cold battery it is used to heat the battery
20190223_071439.webp
 
Several have posted that their ICE came on in extreme cold (11 F and below) in EV when there was no obvious need for it (cabin heat but no high fan). Could this explain that behavior, as in it called on to heat up the battery? Or does this only happen in HV for us Americans?
 
KentuckyKen said:
Several have posted that their ICE came on in extreme cold (11 F and below) in EV when there was no obvious need for it (cabin heat but no high fan). Could this explain that behavior, as in it called on to heat up the battery? Or does this only happen in HV for us Americans?
Click to expand...
I suspect so, cold batteries don't produce much power either, so heat the battery and provide power until the battery is warm enough. Explains why it runs for a while too, probably takes a while to heat battery significantly.
 
I am pretty sure that any possible battery heating comes from valving charger or powertrain controller coolant to the battery first and then on to the radiator.
In other words, while you are cooling the electronics and the battery is cold, then route this warmed coolant to battery first then to radiator.
If the battery is too hot, send coolant to radiator first, then on to the battery.
ICE coolant is on a separate circuit as far as I know, due to pressure and temp requirements not shared by other systems.
Keeping the hot (ICE) and cold (electronics) circuits completely isolated (even by heat exchanger) reduces some temp control risk.
case in point, I have noticed on cold days during a long road trip (over an hour) using HV, that 4 bar regen is not available when hot coolant could have warmed the battery up.
If there was a heat exchanger between ICE and electronics for this scenario that would be really interesting and advantageous.
However, this would also introduce the risk of heating the battery and electronics to 175 degrees if a sensor failed.
 
Read the first highlight above, it sounds like engine coolant shares the same circuit due to the comment about bypass valve to avoid high temps caused by low speed engine operation.
 
bill_m said:
The EV mode button is right next to the NORMAL mode button.
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Did Honda add a NORMAL button to the 2019 Claritys? That mode doesn't get a button in the 2018s. I don't believe either year has an EV button. The Accord Hybrid and the new Insight have EV buttons.
 
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Firstly, thanks for the kind words KentuckyKen, I think you are one of the distinguished, elder statesmen of the blog along with a few others!

Secondly, when I originally posted this thread, I was unaware in the beginning that the time to edit posts was very short and that words in the names of the file attachments are not searchable. I wish I could go back and consolidate and reorganize all the various attachments in a logical sense. The attachment below is already in this thread but it sheds light to the Integrated Cooling System SAE paper.

Using that I have concluded 3 things:

-the ICE coolant and the Electric Powertrain/Storage (battery, DC-DC Converter, on-board charger) coolant are not shared at anytime, thus the ICE cannot heat up the battery.
-the waste heat referenced in the SAE article is from the Battery Charger and the DC-DC converter
-Zone V battery warming takes place primarily during connected-to-the-grid battery charging.

In regards to the first point see the diagrams below that show that the Electric Powertrain/Storage Cooling system. At no time is coolant from the ICE shared with the EPC system:

From the SAE article

upload_2019-2-24_10-48-32.webp

This is the same system above but in greater detail (file attached). As you can see it is a completely closed loop:

upload_2019-2-24_11-2-40.webp


I arrive at points 2 and 3 from these diagrams from the SAE article:



upload_2019-2-24_11-11-28.webp

While charging happens during driving, I believe the Charging in the above graphic refers to the on board charger, which is in use only during connected-to-the grid charging. As shown below the on-board charger is not in use during driving, leaving the battery itself to heat itself and the DC-DC converter to supply waste heat.

upload_2019-2-24_11-18-31.webp
 

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