EVSE Recommendations

  • Thread starter Thread starter barnesgj
  • Start date Start date
  • Replies Replies 71
  • Views Views 21K
B

barnesgj

Active Member
I am trying to decide the best Level 2 charging station. It will be partially sheltered outside, so I am looking at hard wired versions. I know the Clarity has a 6 kWh on-board charger, so believe I need 7.2 kWh. And am looking at 30/32 Amps, which I believe means I need 40 Amps from the junction box. Am trying to gather all the information my installer needs as well as pick out a reliable brand. I don't think I need the timers or wifi options and would rather keep it simple.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
I'll just tell you what I bought which is the JuiceBox Pro 40 WiFi. It handles the 32A for our Clarity on a 40A circuit. They also sell a non WiFi version.

I like the WiFi because I can see how much current is flowing into the car, and how much total power was used to fully charge the car. There is a graph to show how long the charge took. I can also program the JuiceBox to limit the current if I want to.

https://www.amazon.com/JuiceBox-Pro...8-1-spons&keywords=juicebox+pro+40+wifi&psc=1
 
I went with the hardwired chargepoint 32A unit (40A circuit) this time. It is probably more gadgetry than what you want. Although, I notice some interesting things in the charging curves (WiFi, imac) with the extreme cold (hope it's just that) and think the curves may be useful if I ever develop a problem (which could also be never). The chargepoint was on sale for the holidays, and then there also seems to be both fed and state tax incentives from 2017.

Also not inexpensive, however very robust (and simple) for outdoor use and with a great warranty (I think 3 years) and outstanding customer support is ClipperCreek (click on underline for link). I used the hardwired CC LCS-20 for three plus years in my unheated, unfinished garage, for both gen 1 and gen 2 Volts and was very pleased.

The looks and size are not for me, but I've noticed some pretty good discounts on the Siemens 30A units (I think Costco). You can watch for them at SlickDeals.com (no affiliation). Don't know if they are suitable for outdoor use?

If you think EVs are your thing, it might be worth having the electrician run a heavier gauge wire than needed now, for future proofing. You never know though, for example, if you set up for a 50A circuit now, maybe the next EV will need a 60A circuit ... However, especially for a hardwired unit, you can install the lower rated circuit breaker now (e.g. 40A), even if you go with a heavier gauge wire. The only reason to consider future proofing is that electrician time probably costs a lot more than the higher priced cable.

I mostly don't future proof. As a former EE with installation experience, and a simple little house with easy access everywhere, I just do all the installs myself. Last round, I did pull a #10 cable (30A), when I only needed #12 (20A, the LCS-20 is a 16A EVSE), but needed at least #8 this round (40A), and installed #6 (because I already had an extra length rolled up in the basement from a past project). The 30A run turned out to be perfect for a new garage heater.
 
Last edited:
jdonalds said:
I'll just tell you what I bought which is the JuiceBox Pro 40 WiFi. It handles the 32A for our Clarity on a 40A circuit. They also sell a non WiFi version.

I like the WiFi because I can see how much current is flowing into the car, and how much total power was used to fully charge the car. There is a graph to show how long the charge took. I can also program the JuiceBox to limit the current if I want to.

https://www.amazon.com/JuiceBox-Pro...8-1-spons&keywords=juicebox+pro+40+wifi&psc=1
Click to expand...

So the JuiceBox Pro 40 requires the same 40 amps from the junction box as the Chargepoint 32?
 
I see a ClipperCreek LCS-30 24 Amp which can be used outside and is rated at 5.8 kWh. That seems to fit my needs.
I think keeping the amps from the junction box to 30 might work better, too.
 
Depends on the age and condition of your main box and wiring. If you have a box in good condition and your home is not running near capacity, I would go for 30A or 32A. Your electrician can give some good feedback if there are any concerns about the EVSE load on your existing box, wiring. It is really nice to charge in 2+ hours! 4 hours was pretty exciting with the Volts, 2 hours is nicer.

on the JuiceBox/chargepoint, a circuit is never run at more than 80% of rating, so the 32A chargepoint needs at least a 40A run and circuit breaker. So the JuiceBox 40A unit would need to be fed by a 50A rated cable / 50A breaker.

Now, if things are hardwired, the rating of the circuit breaker can be lower than the ampacity rating of the wire/cable. So you can, for example, run a 40A breaker with the #6 cable for a hardwired unit. One reason for the 80% rule is that (beyond temperature of the wires) if you run too close to a circuit breaker rating, there will likely be a number of trips.

You can download ClipperCreek installation instruction pdfs which used to include tables of minimum wire and circuit breaker sizes.
 
Last edited:
jdonalds said:
I read that the EVSE needs a 20% buffer. So the circuit needs to have more power available than the car will use.
Click to expand...

The EVSE load must be no more than 80% of the wire/cable and circuit breaker rating. It's the electrical code. (as in fire prevention)
 
Last edited:
We bought the 40A JuiceBox. It also serves as a back up for the Tesla EVSE, for which continuity of charge is a bit more critical than the Clarity. The Tesla EVSE is just the handheld that comes with the car, but it carries 40A. Adding two 240V/50A circuits was made possible because we upgraded our panel when we added a solar PV system. And it all goes into the 30% tax credit bucket.

Tiralc said:
The chargepoint was on sale for the holidays, and then there also seems to be both fed and state tax incentives from 2017.
Click to expand...

I'm wondering about how to add the Juicebox to that tax credit box. Not sure how that one fits in yet - but I'll have to investigate it. I suspect it just becomes a part of the single line item like the electrical and the tree work.
 
On further reading, probably nothing for 2017 fed tax, my mistake (one site (scroll down for EVSE) says the federal tax EVSE incentive expired in 2016). In NY we still get 50% (includes installation cost), here is the chargepoint page for state incentives for EVSE (click on the underlined text). NY has a special form, which I hope to find directly through 2017 TurboTax (have not yet bought it this year). My biggest worry is to see if Turbotax will recognize the very new Honda Clarity VIN number ... we shall see.

barnesgj, yes looks good! This is from the LCS manual (the LCS series are super nice well built units). I will sell my old LCS-20 soon, they are very popular and hold some good resale value, even after 3 years.

Screen Shot 2018-01-06 at 8.02.20 PM.webp
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all the great feedback. I ordered the LCS-30. And am feeling a lot less confused than when I started.
 
I got the GE version where you can set the jumper for 20, 30, 40 amp. Bought it original for the Volt and for future upgradability. Took me about 30 minutes to hardwired the unit but I'm a licensed electrician on the side.
 
If you want to charge at max the Clarity supports (7.2 kw) you would want the 32 amp HCS-40 (not portable).

I have a Clipper Creek HCS-40 and Charge Point Home 32 amp. Both charge the Clarity at 7.2 kw and use 40 amp circuits.

If you are okay charging at the slightly slower rate that LCS-30 should be fine. 30 Amp circuit, 24 amp charging. Both are great chargers, mine are indoor installs.
 
I don't know rating, but it actually charges at 7.2 kw. I have a power meter hooked up to my HCS40 and the Charge Point has one, both indicate it is charging at 7.2 kw.

It is very cold here right now (sub 0F highs on some days), and if the battery is cold it will start at 4k and slowly ramp up.
 
barnesgj said:
Oh. That's interesting.
Anyway, I'm okay with the slower charge. It will be way better than 12 hrs.
Click to expand...
24 amp will be plenty fast.

FYI electrical standards require derating max continuous current to 80% of breaker, so that is why 40 amp breaker with 8 ga wire is rated at 32 amps continuous, but the car "rating" of 6.6 kw 32 amp (according to spec sheet, I just checked Honda site) doesn't need derating. It is a statement of how much power you can expect the car to draw, the car is responsible to have equipment that can handle that power. It will request less if it is too hot (or it should).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top