Collision Mitigation System Problem and LKAS Problem and ACC problem and Road Departure Mitigation Problem

[neal adkins]

Most people that have modern vehicles would save themselves lots of headaches by getting the appropriate scan tool for their vehicle. I got a Thinkcar 689bt. The bt is for Bluetooth connection. Less expensive ones are still very helpful.

 

[Conelite]

It is 100% your windshield camera, near the rearview mirror, overheated. There are threads on here about it. Buy a used one on ebay and it takes 5 minutes to snap it into place- problem solved. The dealer will charge you 2-3 grand. A used one is between $350-$650 depending on the seller of the used part. You want a used camera, so you dont have to have it calibrated.

You dont have to calibrate the one I linked to above.

This is the camera module that goes bad.

 

[Geor99]

You dont have to calibrate the one I linked to above.

This is the camera module that goes bad.

Sorry, I meant that if you buy a new camera module, you will need it calibrated which is several 100 dollars. Either a used module or the internal piece that you bought won't require calibration.

 

[NorCalPete]

One of my Claritys just joined the "failed multi-purpose camera club," showing all of the above dash alerts with no active or pending ECU trouble codes. Fortunately, my Honda Care policy for that car is still active until Dec 19th so the repair should be covered. I'm dropping it off to the local dealer tomorrow to be diagnosed. I was told they don't have any cameras in stock (because they've been replacing so many of them) so I'll need to wait for a replacement to arrive after they order it.

I also scanned my battery's AH number today (42.23 Ah with 67k on the odometer) in case they reset the Ah value during the diagnosis. I'm not too worried about the latter, given that my drive battery isn't anywhere near warranty replacement levels (yet).