I originally ordered this Kenwood KSC-SW11 thinking I could fit it under a seat and no go. Seats are just to low. It would fit in the rear armrest, and I have seen that done before but hated the look and it prevents you from closing the armrest. Not closing the armrest is not a big deal until you want to fold the seats down. I am still researching what that little sensor is under the back deck in the trunk. The sales guys (and service guy) that honestly were not that versed in the vehicle in the first place said it was part of the side impact and stability sensor array. So, if that is the case then there may have been a reason (other than weight and price) that Honda didn't install a woofer back there as I would assume vibration on that deck could cause problems. This is all speculation - maybe someone here knows what it is (2018 Touring Model).
I have always hated buried trunk subs, as they put more sound in the trunk (and rattle) than the cabin. However, not a lot of options here in the Clarity.
I finally took the plunge after just deciding I didn't like the clarity speakers. The tweets are ok, kinda harsh sounding, but the mid bass drivers are so muddy at any volume that I decided it was time to upgrade them all. Man those are some tiny magnets on the door "woofers." Crutchfield first recommended the Rockford Fosgate Prime R1675-S as they are on sale and I do like RF products. As much as I liked the mid-bass drivers (I have heard them and still feel they would have been fine) I hate those tweeters, and they are physically a challenge to mount. I decided to go with the JL Audio C1 650 component sets for front and rear replacements. The tweeters fit perfectly in the front pillars. Removed the factory plastic mount and use the JL bracket kit, no crutchfield metal strap required, easy and look like they were OEM in fit/form. The tweeters in the rear door were a bit more brutal, as I had to cut out a lot of the mounting frame to high temp glue and silicone them in. You can't tell from inside the car and so it looks factory. The mid driver/woofers with the Crutchfield adapter frames were a breeze. As for sound, I am happy. The overall "clarity" is much better and the range is much wider in both response and un-distorted volume. I don't think there is much more that can be done on the low end without a real sub-woofer, but I am stopping here. If the factory unit had more RMS power available I might have chosen Focal ISS 165's, as I think that is about the top end for a non-amp "factory" system, but you really need a bit more power than the spec on the Clairity factory system. If someone has tried them chime in, they are good drivers and have a pretty flat response curve.
The JL's are pretty efficient and the factory unit drives them well. It's a price point call, if you are not adding an amp and sound processor, spending $500+ on factory replacements has diminishing returns. But this is just my opinion. I bet someone has gone the RF 1675 route and can chime in - they probably sound fine and anything is better than those factory speakers.
If you really wanted to get more out of the doors you could build a custom low resonance baffle and use lots of panel sound deadening - but if you are going that route you are probably adding amps, processor, and $500 a piece drivers - and enjoying the feeling of watching your range decrease as the volume increases! But we all have our priorities, and I was once there in my youth - at IASCA... ;-) (Hmmm, 17KW battery.... no - walk away...)
The install was easy and everyone has already commented on the procedures and things to watch out for. I am including photos, not that it is anything special, but may help someone else. I am happy and it only took an afternoon once I got into it. Have to admit I freaked out a bit with all the errors after plugging the battery back in, then read the manual (have to order the real owners manual... $40K car and they deliver it with a "quick reference guide" ugh.)
Cheers!
