I find this bit fascinating, it seems to indicate the buffer sizes are modified based on conditions:
When charging multiple times in succession using DC, e.g. during a longer trip, the charging capacity is temporarily reduced as needed to protect the high-voltage battery.
Again, it sure seems like a CYA situation. There doesn’t appear to be any rhyme or reason for the three different manuals for three different — consecutive — model years.Well, looks like they went back on their old advice from the 2021 manual (screenshots below). The 2023 manual aligns with other EVs and battery expert suggestions (e.g. battery university).
Maybe MINI and CATL quietly changed the battery chemistry to save money. Cobalt has become increasingly expensive over the past few years.I, too, plan to charge and enjoy, and show the dealer my 2022 user manual if there is ever a dispute over my battery health under warranty. "Where does this manual say I was only supposed to charge to 80% most of the time?"
I find this bit fascinating, it seems to indicate the buffer sizes are modified based on conditions:
When charging multiple times in succession using DC, e.g. during a longer trip, the charging capacity is temporarily reduced as needed to protect the high-voltage battery.
But I have a hard time with this statement. If it were true, why wouldn't MINI give us a way to stop the charging at a specified percentage?
If possible, keep the charge level between 10 % and 80 %.
As I sold my. I3 7 1/2 old that battery was never close to thinking about replacement under warranty and following I 3 forum I believe only handful people have them replaced by BMW but mostly 1 or 2 cells of 8 not whole battery I 3 battery was 60 ampH and SE 94 ampH and I agree beat the crap out of it you still can’t degrade a battery to have replacement before 8 years .As I’m driving 4000 miles a year with SE / I 3 BMW prediction was a car will be drivable at least 16 years good range of drivability and if I keep SE for next 16 years I will be 88 years old and still can drive a car to corner deli for gallon of milk or 6 packs !Or you can beat the crap out of the battery with extreme temps & lots of DCFCs & see if it degrades enough juuuuust before 8 years/100k, & get yourself a warrantied battery.
As I sold my. I3 7 1/2 old that battery was never close to thinking about replacement under warranty and following I 3 forum I believe only handful people have them replaced by BMW but mostly 1 or 2 cells of 8 not whole battery I 3 battery was 60 ampH and SE 94 ampH and I agree beat the crap out of it you still can’t degrade a battery to have replacement before 8 years .As I’m driving 4000 miles a year with SE / I 3 BMW prediction was a car will be drivable at least 16 years good range of drivability and if I keep SE for next 16 years I will be 88 years old and still can drive a car to corner deli for gallon of milk or 6 packs !
10% up or down is a buffer on SE as on i3 your 100% charge is fake .Here's an image I collected in the early days of getting my SE, not sure where I got it and it doesn't seem to correlate directly to the SE, but it's a good illustration of the buffering.
View attachment 18178
I don't know how it affects your battery life but it definitely is less efficient than charging at 240. I have both at home and use the 120 charger most of the time because I'm taking advantage of solar pv. I don't get credit for any excess energy I'm producing so I make sure my se is set to charge from 11am-4 pm when I'm home. However, I have occasionally needed to charge quicker and compared kwh used at 120 volts and at 240 volts. It seemed to take about an extra 30% at 120! 64%-100% at 120 volts took 17 kwh and at 240 volts, only 12 kwh. If I was paying for electricity I'd be charging at 240.I do almost all of my charging at home with a standard Level I charger. My usage patterns allow this and physical access to my Level II charger is often challenging. Given that excess heat degrades batteries, I have suspected that Level I charging generates less heat than Level II charging and therefore is easier on the HV battery, but I have not come across any studies to confirm this hypothesis. I have also wondered if the HV battery might benefit from an occasional faster charge. I drive a Kona and charge it up to 100% each time immediately after use with no concern regarding overheating. I am typically just using the top 40% of the battery pack. Any insights regarding constant Level I charging would be appreciated.
I don't know how it affects your battery life but it definitely is less efficient than charging at 240. I have both at home and use the 120 charger most of the time because I'm taking advantage of solar pv. I don't get credit for any excess energy I'm producing so I make sure my se is set to charge from 11am-4 pm when I'm home. However, I have occasionally needed to charge quicker and compared kwh used at 120 volts and at 240 volts. It seemed to take about an extra 30% at 120! 64%-100% at 120 volts took 17 kwh and at 240 volts, only 12 kwh. If I was paying for electricity I'd be charging at 240.