Charger Control Box Blinking Green

If it doesn't work with roughly half the outlets in the house, and the house has 2 circuits for outlets, it is likely the problem is with the circuit. A faulty outlet could be the root of the problem (and not necessarily the one in the garage that you originally used to charge), or it could lie elsewhere. Replacing an outlet is relatively cheap and worth a shot. My guess is a ground fault issue (the hot line is out of balance with neutral). EVSE's are more sensitive to circuit problems since they are continuous duty devices and will be more likely stress a circuit. The EVSE refusing to operate indicates there is a potential safety issue with the wiring that needs to be addressed. The $10 circuit tester is a good place to start and may help locate the source of the problem (test all the outlets that fail with the EVSE).

You can map the breakers on the two outlet circuits by turning one off and testing to see which still work (a lamp or radio is often used). Since you only have two, it won't be too hard. My guess is you have essentially done that by trying the EVE on them.
 
Yes, there is some merit in replacing the outlet...

Please be aware however that these receptacles are always in a string. It is quite common for a fault earlier in a string to cause a downstream receptacle to not function properly even though there is nothing wrong with the receptacle itself.

I briefly mentioned my experience with an electric heater earlier. In that case, the outlet that caught on fire was NOT the one that the heater was plugged into. A poor connection had developed in the string upstream from the receptacle that the heater was plugged into. The heavy load from the heater had to pass through this poor connection and that is where the wiring / receptacle overheated (at the weak link).

A couple of cautionary tips...
  • There was a stretch of time when aluminum wiring was used (in the early 1970's). If you find aluminum wiring do NOT do this yourself without any real experience. Aluminum wiring is VERY bad news so stay away.
  • Another thing to watch for is whether the wires are properly wrapped and tightened under the screws, or whether the wires are stripped and 'plugged into' the rear of the receptacles (not using the screws). The 'plugged' in wires were permitted, but I have always felt it was not as good (particularly if the circuit is heavily loaded) as tightening the wires under the screws.
You asked earlier if you can measure the voltage... Yes, a voltmeter is not expensive. Usually you have to stick some bare probes into the outlet so caution is required. The simple tester mentioned earlier plugs in, and is easy to use, but does not measure voltage. If replacing the receptacle doesn't yield results, you could plug your charger into the bottom receptacle and measure the voltage on the top receptacle for instance.

If you have any doubt with any of this, it is best to defer to someone with experience !

I am still very baffled as to what can cause the blinking light and why I couldn't seem to create the same condition. I agree that it is NOT "temperature" as alluded to in the manual. There may be a temperature sensor in the charger plug (I can see the merit of that), but in your case, it is clearly not heating up because you essentially have no load (it's not even connected to the vehicle). Your charger may be bad, but that doesn't explain why it 'fails' consistently in some outlets and works consistently in others.

Keep us posted. Others may jump in with more thoughts as time goes on.
 
If, indeed, there are only two circuits powering all the outlets in the house, that means the refrigerator is on one of them. The only way to be certain what controls which (without running back and forth a great deal) is to plug a lamp into every outlet in the house then turn off one breaker and make a note of what goes off. Then turn off the other breaker to see if all the others go off. If anything is still lit, then you know that the label is incorrect. Just in case, you should also repeat the process with the second outlet in each receptacle as, sometimes, a receptacle is split across two circuits. FWIW I also agree with replacing the outlet in question: They are not expensive and, if the problem persists after you change it out, you can return the new unit for a refund.
 
lotsa questions said:
Thanks, I will probably replace myself. I just don't want to rock the boat with the landlord.
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Rock the boat?

This problem should be remedied by the landlord or property manager. Why wouldn’t you contact them about this?

You doing the work or hiring an electrician may violate your rental agreement.
 
MrFixit said:
@lotsa questions -
It has been quite a while since we heard from you...
Did you find a solution to your failure to charge / blinking light problem?
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Hi MrFixit - Nothing new to report unfortunately. Got kinda busy with the holidays. I started using a different outlet, which does require me to sprawl a cord across the living room (from the kitchen to the front porch). Works for now.
Have had various conversations; not sure where to go from here. The property manager said that she would recommend to the owner that they cover half and I cover half of the cost to install whatever new thing is decided on (whether it's just an exterior 120 outlet, or new 240v plug). I replied to her asking if she has any idea what it would cost and she never replied. I just don't want to commit to something real expensive, which it could get since this elec box is really old (unless I extend the lease; month to month now). Then an electrician gave me an estimate (in December) and it was too expensive; he suggested installing a 240v in the back of the house near the box (to reduce materials); he could also do an outlet in the front where I park. Then I saw a distant relative at a Christmas party; he's a commercial electrician and said he'd install whatever for me for free (with LL approval); that was nice. So, I'm not sure what to do now. I should prob call the property mgt as it's easier to discuss this stuff in person than through email.

I still have it on my to-do list to figure out which outlets are on which circuit. I guess that's the next step. And maybe replacing some outlets myself.

Now my furnace just stopped blowing hot air. Do you think this might be related to the car charging/circuit panel? I wouldn't think so as the furnace blows, just not hot air, so it seems that it's getting power, but the burner mechanism isn't running. I'm not even sure where the furnace is, I think it's in the attic (this is California, no basement). I have gas as the stove is working, as well as the hot water heater, so probably not a gas issue.
Anywho - thanks for listening. Happy New Year
 
I could be wrong, but I believe your landlord is obligated by law to repair the furnace. Not so with an air conditioner. This is based on previous experience with a landlord who had a lawyer for a husband.

They should also repair your electrical circuits at their expense as long as you’re not asking for any improvements or upgrades. You may be able to have your distant relative perform the work, pending approval, and submit a bill. If the landlord is only willing to pay half, at least your relative will get something out of the deal.

As a tenant in CA, you pretty much have all the rights.
 
Landshark said:
I could be wrong, but I believe your landlord is obligated by law to repair the furnace. Not so with an air conditioner. This is based on previous experience with a landlord who had a lawyer for a husband.

They should also repair your electrical circuits at their expense as long as you’re not asking for any improvements or upgrades. You may be able to have your distant relative perform the work, pending approval, and submit a bill. If the landlord is only willing to pay half, at least your relative will get something out of the deal.

As a tenant in CA, you pretty much have all the rights.
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Thank's Landshark. I think the landlord would rather have their electrical guy do the work (under normal circumstances). But if my friend does it he would do it for free (I'd pay the materials); he said it's easy, which I'm sure it is for someone with major experience.

My "rock the boat" comment was because I feel it's a weird thing to explain to the LL because the outlets do work, just not with my charger. Other outlets do work with my charger so I guess it's not a huge deal, I just have to live with the long cord strung across the living room while charging, but that's mostly overnight so not a big deal.
 
Ok, so I tried to figure out which outlets/fixtures are on which breaker switch, and it's really weird.

Here's the layout of the switches and what I determined they are for:

*two 30 amp linked together (so in essence a 60 amp switch?) --- I'm assuming for clothes dryer or HVAC system
*another two 30 amps linked together --- for dryer or HVAC
*20 amp --- This did not affect anything fixtures in the house. So I am confused.
*20 amp --- This turned off kitchen North wall outlet (where my fridge is) and kitchen West wall outlets and appliances (microwave) and the dining room outlets.
*15 amp --- This did not affect anything. Very confused.
*15 amp --- This turned off many things, I was shocked. It did not line up with the labels in the box which stated that this was on for lights. This turned off:
Kitchen lights
Laundry room lights
back porch lights
from porch lights
hallway lights
bedroom light
bathroom lights
all living room outlets (one on each wall, 4 total)
all bedroom outlets
bathroom outlet
kitchen East wall outlet

And there you have it. I don't understand why so many outlets and lights are on one 15 amp switch while the other 15 amp switch has literally nothing on it. Anywho, at least this tells me that I should charge the car not from an outlet that shares many other things (from the 15 amp outlet). Or at least if I do then do it overnight when all lights are turned off.
 
Sorry, but hard to help much. The two 30 A linked together are 240V circuits rated at 30A. You are right, probably one for HVAC and one for Clothes Dryer. The 20A that didn't seem to turn off anything in the house is indeed a mystery. Maybe a squirrel cage motor for a gas furnace or the blower for the central air? Same question for the 15A that didn't seem to do anything, maybe outside outlets? Given all you have mentioned, I probably wouldn't use the circuit with the refrigerator and microwave (they just pull too much current when active). You can put LED lights in all the lights which should cut the loading down a bunch on the other circuit, but I wouldn't want more than 60W (1/2A) additional load if I was also using that circuit to charge the car (at 11-12A). With LED lighting, 50W is a lot of light. I'd really recommend to get an electrician to look at this from what you are telling us, just to see what he/she would tell you was your best option and fix the grounding on the outlets that are acting up as well.
 
Robert_Alabama said:
Sorry, but hard to help much. The two 30 A linked together are 240V circuits rated at 30A. You are right, probably one for HVAC and one for Clothes Dryer. The 20A that didn't seem to turn off anything in the house is indeed a mystery. Maybe a squirrel cage motor for a gas furnace or the blower for the central air? Same question for the 15A that didn't seem to do anything, maybe outside outlets? Given all you have mentioned, I probably wouldn't use the circuit with the refrigerator and microwave (they just pull too much current when active). You can put LED lights in all the lights which should cut the loading down a bunch on the other circuit, but I wouldn't want more than 60W (1/2A) additional load if I was also using that circuit to charge the car (at 11-12A). With LED lighting, 50W is a lot of light. I'd really recommend to get an electrician to look at this from what you are telling us, just to see what he/she would tell you was your best option and fix the grounding on the outlets that are acting up as well.
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Thanks for the tips. I do have mostly LED lighting, so that's good.
Coincidentally, my hot water heater decided to go cold today as well, wth. I re-lit the pilot light (happens a few times a year) - but just uncanny that it went cold about the same time as the furnace.
Also forgot to mention that there is a garage and none of the circuits turned off the garage lights. This is a duplex, so I'm guessing the other unit's panel controls both garage bays (2 single car garages, one building separated by a wall).
 
My suggestion is this - Take advantage of the relative who is willing to help.
Not necessarily to do any work, but to at least do an assessment of the situation and recommend a path forward.

Your findings are very odd. There are only two circuits that seem to have any applicability. The "dead" ones likely do something. This is a strong indication that this duplex house has only a single breaker panel (located in your unit). The two dead circuits may be feeding your neighbor and you were turning their power on and off while testing this.

Is this finding consistent with the blinking light on your charger (ie: does the charger blinking always occur with one of these circuits and not the other)?

When you were checking this out, did you have one of the simple testers in-hand, and did it indicate proper wiring of these circuits?
 
lotsa questions said:
Then I saw a distant relative at a Christmas party; he's a commercial electrician and said he'd install whatever for me for free (with LL approval); that was nice
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I've been absent a while and just read this thread for the first time. Mr Fix it beat me to it big time as I was interrupted while typing nearly exactly what he was typing... I TOTALLY AGREE WITH HIM. Do This.

If I were you I would jump all over this free resource. As he stated..NOT necessarily for a free install of anything, but for a free inspection of your home. You absolutely need an electrician to at the very least properly inspect your circuit panel and wiring. You definitely have something wonky going on, and it needs to be identified or repaired.

I am a handyman as a 2nd career and 60% of my work has now become electrical...I troubleshoot weird stuff like this all the time and so far I'm batting 1000 on solving the issues. For a small house and panel like that, it would take me literally 15 minutes to explore with a multi meter, then open up the main box to look what has been done in there, pull several outlets from the wall looking for where the breakdown occurs (usually at loose screws), explore again, and tell you EXACTLY what is causing your problems and recommend the best way to fix it.

I have a half-dozen theories swimming in my head right now as to what your actual problem might be and what caused it, but without seeing that <obsolete> panel opened up fully, physically removing testing each individual breaker for function and seeing how they're hooked up, seeing the construction of the house in person to interpret how many remodels it may have seen, and without someone knowledgeable walking that entire house with proper testers putting the probes in the right places, and correctly interpreting the results of the testers, there is no point in my mentioning these theories. I also strongly believe you have two problems...not just one. Fixing one might mask the other and give false sense of security. So please get an electrician in there to inspect the wiring of your house. You have done all you can do alone. I will say I'm 90% certain you have a fire or shock hazard somewhere in that house as it sits right now, and the blinking charger on multiple outlets is the biggest clue. Have an electrician find that hazard before you do, cuz getting shocked or burning down sucks.
 
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I will also leave you with this tidbit so you don't delay much further. I believe (not entirely positive...but 85% sure) that you have a Zinsco panel. If I am correct this is a big deal. Google away...start here:
https://www.thesilverlining.com/businessblog/blog/zinsco-electric-panels-fire-electrical-risk

Share this possibility with your electrician relative so he can research what it means a bit before he comes over...he thinks this is a slam dunk install...and normally it would be as I would feel the same in most homes. But I assure you he has no foggy idea he is possibly dealing with a Zinsco panel, which are. It very common anymore due to their issues. This changes everything, and the commercial guys don’t have exposure to stuff like this very often. He needs to know.

If my Zinsco theory proves correct, you should talk to your landlord about him paying an electrician to replace the panel. It's not overly expensive for such a small panel. And if he decides he doesn't want to pay to replace a confirmed Zinsco, I would honestly move out of that home.
 
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lotsa questions said:
Thank's Landshark. I think the landlord would rather have their electrical guy do the work (under normal circumstances). But if my friend does it he would do it for free (I'd pay the materials); he said it's easy, which I'm sure it is for someone with major experience.

My "rock the boat" comment was because I feel it's a weird thing to explain to the LL because the outlets do work, just not with my charger. Other outlets do work with my charger so I guess it's not a huge deal, I just have to live with the long cord strung across the living room while charging, but that's mostly overnight so not a big deal.
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As craze1cars has stated, you may have a potential fire or shock hazard present. There is definitely something wrong with the wiring in the house.

Additionally, while some owners regularly or occasionally use extension cords to charge, the Honda owners manual advises against the use of extension cords. In your case, a “long” extension cord with faulty wiring has the potential to aggravate a bad situation.

As much as I believe, you, as a tenant, should not have to pay for or arrange to have the needed repairs made, your top priority should be to have the wiring repaired immediately. I would not charge the car on any of those circuits, with or without an extension cord.
 
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