Boosting with clarity

V

victor_2019

Active Member
Can a clarity PHEV be used to boost another car?

Is the clarity battery strong enough, since it does need to be able to start the clarity's engine potentially quite often in a short time period?
 
If I did, I wouldn't be asking the question, would I?

In general it is not allowed to boost a car with an EV due to potential damage, and I don't know if this applies to something like a clarity as well.

Also, usually when I boost another car I have my car's engine running to be able to have enough power to start the other car, and here I don't know how I can force the clarity engine on when the car is stationary.

So if you have some real answers, I'd like to hear them. If you're just going to be a smart ***, you can keep it to yourself.
 
The owners manual provides instructions for jump starting a Clarity PHEV from another vehicle. The manual does not provide instructions for starting another car from a Clarity PHEV. Strangely, it does not advise against doing so.

The 12V battery is charged from the HV battery. When the car is “on” the battery will be charged as needed. No need to force the ICE to run. I have seen ~14.4V when on. When off the battery rests at ~12.7V.

Because the procedure you have asked about is not covered in the manual, I’ve opted to carry a Lithium jump starter which will easily start any car.
 
The 12V battery only powers the control modules and computers. The high voltage battery is what cranks the engine.

I'd be very careful if I were you. Any chance of connecting the jumpers up with wrong polarity could fry those modules and computers.
 
Clarity's battery is a plain old Group 51 rated for 500 cranking amps. The exact same battery has been in the majority of 4 cylinder Honda vehicles for the past decade or so....CRV, Accord, Civic, etc.

Yes it is capable of jump starting another car, if in good condition.

I feel compelled to add that the vast majority of jumper cables on the market and in people’s trunks, however, are decidedly NOT capable of carrying enough current to effectively accomplish a jump start for another car that has a fully dead battery. If you didn’t spend at least $100 for the set of cables, they’re largely useless...probably copper coated brittle aluminum of insufficient gauge, and lousy clamps. They are one of the most misunderstood car care products on earth...

For this reason alone I agree with others suggestions that a modern lithium jump pack has a far better chance of getting the job done. Also it is safer, smaller, lighter, faster, easier to use, most have built in flashlight, doesn’t require another car in a perfect position, has multiple other uses, and is about the same price. I encourage everyone to discard (recycle) their jumper cables. They are obsolete and probably won’t work when you need them most anyway...
 
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Fact: The manual is silent on whether boosting another car’s battery is allowed or prohibited.

Opinion: Common sense says it should be like any other car if you have the Clarity on so the HV battery will supply charge to the 12 V battery as needed. However, since there are so many expensive electronics involved and to be in the safe side I agree with @Mowcowbell @Landshark and @craze1cars . I carry a Gooloo (funny name, great product and not your usual cheap Chicom knockoff) Li-ion booster in the cubby under the trunk floor.
About $75 for the larger size on Amazon or EBay and has a 4.5 star rating from over 1,500 people. It also comes with a very nice hard shell case and will charge your phone many times over if stranded in the snow. Also has a light. I thought it was good insurance and no more tangled cables.
And @craze1cars is spot on about old and cheap cables. If you’re going to carry jumper cables spend extra to get the copper wire kind, not the cheap a** copper plated aluminum junkers that are now sold every where and are not as good as the old all copper ones we grew up with despite their wire gauge. Expect to pay about $50 to 60. Buy once, cry once, and it will always deliver the Amps.
GOOLOO 1500A Peak 20800mAh SuperSafe Car Jump Starter with USB Quick Charge 3.0 (Up to 8.0L Gas, 6.0L Diesel Engine) 12V Auto Battery Booster Portable Charger Power Pack Built-in Smart Protection
 
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petteyg359 said:
Because it's NOT A RISK. Don't be ridiculous.
Click to expand...
Uhh, it’s not a risk until you or some ignorant or sloppy person you’re helping out does it wrong. Then it’s too late and possibly bites you on the (very expensive) bumper.
In a non electronic whiz bang of a car I could agree with you more. But we have had so many reports of a single electrical component or even a wiring harness costing insanely high amounts (like a $1,000+) that I am reluctant to “risk” it.
Perhaps my Boomer is showing. The older I get and the more experience I accumulate, the more risk adverse I seem to get.
 
KentuckyKen said:
Uhh, it’s not a risk until you or some ignorant or sloppy person you’re helping out does it wrong. Then it’s too late and possibly bites you on the (very expensive) bumper.
Click to expand...

If somebody is ignorant or sloppy enough to actually do jumper cables (literally colored-rubber-coated clamps that match the colors on the battery connection points) wrong then they can pay ridiculous prices for a service call (or just use the free Honda roadside service, but wait two hours for the guy/gal who knows how to use jumper cables to show up). Some who-knows-what-quality-or-fire-hazard-it-might-be lithium pack still requires you to connect jumper cables, whether it's a Clarity or some other car. If you're just avoiding using your Clarity as a source while jumping another car, and you start a fire in the other car because you somehow connected the lithium pack's cables to the wrong things, you're still in trouble.

You've solved nothing.
 
Before we start yelling too much at each other, note that we’ve been down this road (so to speak) before. This is one of the former threads on jump starting.

https://www.insideevsforum.com/comm...r-with-clarity-you-can-do-it.7026/#post-79846

I would also note the NOCO brand jump packs are much safer than jumper cables because they have built in a fail-safe for reversed polarity. I have no idea what happens if polarity is reversed with regular jumper cables and I never want to find out accidentally. I only know there’s a lot of amps in a battery.
 
petteyg359 said:
Because it's NOT A RISK. Don't be ridiculous.
Click to expand...
I'll give you a perfect reason to use a lithium jump pack. Stranded car with dead battery is in a full parking lot with cars on either side and in front. How are you going to get your Clarity in there to jump this disabled car? Want to push it out into the street to jump it? Get out the lithium jump pack... problem solved and you didn't have to strain your back to push a disabled car.
 
petteyg359 said:
If somebody is ignorant or sloppy enough to actually do jumper cables (literally colored-rubber-coated clamps that match the colors on the battery connection points) wrong then they can pay ridiculous prices for a service call (or just use the free Honda roadside service, but wait two hours for the guy/gal who knows how to use jumper cables to show up). Some who-knows-what-quality-or-fire-hazard-it-might-be lithium pack still requires you to connect jumper cables, whether it's a Clarity or some other car. If you're just avoiding using your Clarity as a source while jumping another car, and you start a fire in the other car because you somehow connected the lithium pack's cables to the wrong things, you're still in trouble.

You've solved nothing.
Click to expand...
Besides the convenience of not carrying around a rats nest of jumper cables and @Mowcowbell ’s mentioned advantage of reach and ease, it does solve something for me at least. If something goes terribly wrong (although admittedly a low probability event), I’ve only trashed the Li-ion jumper pack and not anything on my wonderful Clarity.
However, YMMV as always.
And I would never begrudge your wanting to use jumper cables since they are not proscribed by the manual. I just find the Li-ion jumper better suited to my particular needs.
 
petteyg359 said:
If somebody is ignorant or sloppy enough to actually do jumper cables (literally colored-rubber-coated clamps that match the colors on the battery connection points) wrong then they can pay ridiculous prices for a service call (or just use the free Honda roadside service, but wait two hours for the guy/gal who knows how to use jumper cables to show up). Some who-knows-what-quality-or-fire-hazard-it-might-be lithium pack still requires you to connect jumper cables, whether it's a Clarity or some other car. If you're just avoiding using your Clarity as a source while jumping another car, and you start a fire in the other car because you somehow connected the lithium pack's cables to the wrong things, you're still in trouble.

You've solved nothing.
Click to expand...

petteyg359

Agreed. Which is why I always insist I will hook up cables to both cars if I agree to jump it. I never trust someone else with that even in the typical ICE vehicle. Limits downside. If I am using my vehicle...I typically use the cables I carry as well to limit issues with poor cables.

Nothing wrong with the portable jump start kit either...to each their own...I just prefer to use cables. No harm no foul either way.
 
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craze1cars said:
Clarity's battery is a plain old Group 51 rated for 500 cranking amps. The exact same battery has been in the majority of 4 cylinder Honda vehicles for the past decade or so....CRV, Accord, Civic, etc.

Yes it is capable of jump starting another car, if in good condition.

I feel compelled to add that the vast majority of jumper cables on the market and in people’s trunks, however, are decidedly NOT capable of carrying enough current to effectively accomplish a jump start for another car that has a fully dead battery. If you didn’t spend at least $100 for the set of cables, they’re largely useless...probably copper coated brittle aluminum of insufficient gauge, and lousy clamps. They are one of the most misunderstood car care products on earth...

For this reason alone I agree with others suggestions that a modern lithium jump pack has a far better chance of getting the job done. Also it is safer, smaller, lighter, faster, easier to use, most have built in flashlight, doesn’t require another car in a perfect position, has multiple other uses, and is about the same price. I encourage everyone to discard (recycle) their jumper cables. They are obsolete and probably won’t work when you need them most anyway...
Click to expand...

Thanks for the battery information. Can anyone confirm that it's a plain old group 51 (or 51R) battery that you can buy anywhere? I thought EVs and PHEVs (and many plain hybrids) use expensive AGM batteries. It'll be great if I didn't have to go back to the dealer for replacement.
 
PHEV Newbie said:
Thanks for the battery information. Can anyone confirm that it's a plain old group 51 (or 51R) battery that you can buy anywhere? I thought EVs and PHEVs (and many plain hybrids) use expensive AGM batteries. It'll be great if I didn't have to go back to the dealer for replacement.
Click to expand...

PHEV Newbie

The 2018 Clarity Touring has a standard flooded cell battery for the 12v...the type you can add liquid to as needed. AGM batteries are 100% sealed as far as I know.

I know for certain the 2017 Toyota Rav4 hybrid uses a AGM battery for the 12v. So its not unheard of. When it comes time for the 12v battery to be replaced in the Clarity I drive...I will strongly consider the pros/cons of AGM vs flooded. This is another "to each his/her own" question. No harm no foul either way as long as a person does the homework and buys appropriately.

Pic of battery labeling in the Clarity I drive attached for your review.

Hope this helps.

upload_2020-2-2_14-15-55.webp
 
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Honda couldn't find room for a 12V battery in the engine bay of the current Insight. They found some unoccupied space in the center console, so they stuck an AGM battery there. I don't know if this Insight has engine-bay posts connected to the battery for jump-starting.

upload_2020-2-2_15-10-38.webp
 
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