[Autocar] Battery life uncertainty prompts concern over used EVs

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AndysComputer said:
The resistive heater must kick in at extremely low temperatures as the heat pump becomes 100% efficient at -15C which is the same power use as a resistive heater.
My tests show that the heat pump at 0degC causes a range drop of about 20% vs 20degC weather which does not need heat (or AC).
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I think it's about 14-20F when the resistive heater kicks in.
 
AndysComputer said:
The resistive heater must kick in at extremely low temperatures as the heat pump becomes 100% efficient at -15C which is the same power use as a resistive heater.
My tests show that the heat pump at 0degC causes a range drop of about 20% vs 20degC weather which does not need heat (or AC).
Click to expand...
Is there a way to determine when the resistive heater takes over from the heat pump? Does one of the OBDII apps that works with the SE signal when the transition occurs?
 
In Green I believe it sticks with the HP well below freezing. The air flowing from the various outlets feels very close to the set temperature, just like the air coming from the registers at home when my 2½ ton HP is keeping the house at 21°C while it’s freezing outside. If I switch to Mid or Sport, I immediately feel hot air.
 
Lainey said:
No. It would be just as bad. An unrealistic one either way is bad. I seriously don't even look at mine and wish it would just be replaced with battery percentage as an option there vs having that only as one choice at tge bottom.
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The GOM is truly awful.
Mine has been showing similar or slightly higher than summer figures recently, while my actual range has been down the toilet.
For the first time in ages, I managed a 4.0m/kWh day today. I went in to work at 10am, left 4 hours later. Temps were high 40Fs. I'm guessing that the car not being completely cold when I left helped.
I really wish that I knew what the heater was doing.
 
The GOM is terrible it’s almost useless. This am left with 98% SOC, showing 140km range. Heat on 20c, automatic and heated seat on 1. OAT was around -8C

Drove to my sisters just off island to the west, 33km drive mostly highway at 110km with some acceleration bursts. Arrived at my sisters showing SOC 84% range 130km remaining.

get back into car drive 3 Km to my moms and take her for a coffe. Back to 94% SOC 140km range remaining.

Get back home about 35km as I went a different route. 76% SOC range remaining 105km LOL. Should have checked the kWh used but I was telling my wife how useless it is. I’d say based on what I see the “E power” or available power might be a better indicator.
 
Yeah but as discussed, there isn’t a GOM on any car that’s worth a damn. The big (huge) difference with our SEs is that the main “fuel gauge” in the IC is that stupid GOM. I’d much rather the needle sweep down my battery SOC than what it thinks my range might be.
 
SameGuy said:
Yeah but as discussed, there isn’t a GOM on any car that’s worth a damn. The big (huge) difference with our SEs is that the main “fuel gauge” in the IC is that stupid GOM. I’d much rather the needle sweep down my battery SOC than what it thinks my range might be.
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I'll trade you 1.8mi/kWh or 52 miles of max range!
minigom18.webp
 
SameGuy said:
In Green I believe it sticks with the HP well below freezing. The air flowing from the various outlets feels very close to the set temperature, just like the air coming from the registers at home when my 2½ ton HP is keeping the house at 21°C while it’s freezing outside. If I switch to Mid or Sport, I immediately feel hot air.
Click to expand...
I've experienced the same, but there's a green mode setting for heating. I wonder if the green mode setting lowers the cutover temperature for the heat pump, or reduces the total output of the resistive heater.

segreenclimate.webp

(apologies for blurriness)
 
Puppethead said:
My real world experience in the SE indicates it's closer to 40 ºF.
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How do you know that?
It makes no sense for them to do that as I recall they said the heat pump does better than 100% efficiency to a long way below that so it would be very inefficient to introduce the resistive heater at that high of a temperature…
At 30F I see 19% range loss which suggests a the heat pump is still doing the work because cars with resistive heaters lose more like 30%+ at that temperature…
 
AndysComputer said:
How do you know that?
Click to expand...
From experience my range drops noticeably starting at about 40 ºF. Since my driving isn't changing I attribute it to greater power consumption by the resistive heater. I'm not saying the heat pump is doing nothing, just that it's not effective enough by itself.
 
Depends on the car.

We saw a 20-25% reduction with the Volt in MN, with temperatures between 20 and 30F. The 30% to 35% drop was only apparent at and below 15F.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
 
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