Actual mileage/efficiency

hobbit said:
I fail to understand how setting any particular regen level would affect
steady-state highway travel efficiency in the slightest. What it takes
to buck a 65mph wind is constant, so what other factors may have been
in play at the time? Headwinds? Tire pressure? Weight load? That
kayak on the roofrack?

_H*
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The above is all fine but really driving behind trucks and all the other stuff to gain What.. Come on people just drive the car. Use the great torque and step on it once in a while.. I did that yesterday to get out of a potential traffic jam. It's my little rocket car.
 
GPM432 said:
The above is all fine but really driving behind trucks and all the other stuff to gain What.. Come on people just drive the car. Use the great torque and step on it once in a while.. I did that yesterday to get out of a potential traffic jam. It's my little rocket car.
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Yesterday, I passed a late model F350 turbo diesel pickup truck (dually) which was going slow and ended up at the same light as him.. He rev'd his engine at me, so we took off.. Speed limit was 65 mph and I went off the accelerator at that speed, so I didn't exceed the speed limit (at least not by a lot).. I did pull away from the truck even though not by much.. Looked up the truck's specs and late model F350 Turbo Diesels get 7.2 seconds from 0 - 60, so not much slower than the Kona.. The Kona is very fast.. Would be even A LOT faster if you could get traction..
 
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Robbert said:
... I have a new add-on to my TED power meter on order that will allow me to monitor the car charger circuit from the breaker box and give me actual kWh consumed vs. the mile counter in the car. Looking forward to generating more stats on that longer-term.
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Those are the only numbers I would trust to start with, the odometer and a good quality power meter. I only use public chargers so my monthly bill vs monthly kms tells me the overall picture, and that is 15.65 kWh/100km for July. Charging energy (AC or DC) vs charge aquired by the battery (SoC) is not very consistent however, so don't be too surprised with the variability.
The car's instrumentation has of course SoC, which is reasonably consistent and I use that for trip planning, allowing 24% charge loss per 100km, essentially 415 kms/100%. I ignore the GoM completely, it's only good for picking lotto numbers. The history numbers are not that useful either other than it marks your 'high score'. Dash consumption numbers in general are not that useful other than comparing against each other, or possibly those from other Konas.

If you are looking for more data and have a curious, technical mind and a familiarity with Excel, look no further than Torque Pro. I'll fill you in if you are interested.
 
I found the mi/kwh of the car to be fairly accurate, at least the couple of times that I went from 100% to about 15% or so. Of course, those numbers do not consider charging loss. When I went to South Florida, I drove 213 miles (starting at full charge) and had 15% of charge remaining when I got to Fort Lauderdale.
The dash read 4.4 mi/kwh. 75% of 64 kwh is 48 kwh. So, I used 48 kwh for 213 miles. 213/48 = 4.43.. So, it looks accurate to me
 
KiwiME said:
Those are the only numbers I would trust to start with, the odometer and a good quality power meter. I only use public chargers so my monthly bill vs monthly kms tells me the overall picture, and that is 15.65 kWh/100km for July. Charging energy (AC or DC) vs charge aquired by the battery (SoC) is not very consistent however, so don't be too surprised with the variability.
The car's instrumentation has of course SoC, which is reasonably consistent and I use that for trip planning, allowing 24% charge loss per 100km, essentially 415 kms/100%. I ignore the GoM completely, it's only good for picking lotto numbers. The history numbers are not that useful either other than it marks your 'high score'. Dash consumption numbers in general are not that useful other than comparing against each other, or possibly those from other Konas.

If you are looking for more data and have a curious, technical mind and a familiarity with Excel, look no further than Torque Pro. I'll fill you in if you are interested.
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Fortunately or unfortunately, I am now able to charge at the office (120V, slow...), so tracking miles vs. charging kW at home is not going to work. Tracking expenses for the car in general of course still works, and seeing my commute cost me 1/2 of what it did before (so far) is awesome. :) That's only going to get better when I charge at work too!

A long time ago when I bought my first Prius, I used Torque Pro. But at that time I had an Android phone. Now I have an iPhone and from what I understand, Torque Pro doesn't work on a iPhone with most OBD-II readers, right? I had started using it at the time to see the torque of the electric motor in the Prius and to gather battery data when I was worried it might not last beyond 100k miles. :) Stopped using it when I got a new phone. Blackberry at the time if I remember correctly.
 
BlueKonaEV said:
I found the mi/kwh of the car to be fairly accurate, at least the couple of times that I went from 100% to about 15% or so. Of course, those numbers do not consider charging loss. When I went to South Florida, I drove 213 miles (starting at full charge) and had 15% of charge remaining when I got to Fort Lauderdale.
The dash read 4.4 mi/kwh. 75% of 64 kwh is 48 kwh. So, I used 48 kwh for 213 miles. 213/48 = 4.43.. So, it looks accurate to me
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Correction, it was 4 mi/kwh and using 85% of the battery to get 213 miles.. I don't remember the exact numbers. All that I remember was that the numbers of the display matched the number calculated..
 
KiwiME said:
If you are looking for more data and have a curious, technical mind and a familiarity with Excel, look no further than Torque Pro. I'll fill you in if you are interested.
Click to expand...

Count me in as interested. I am a software developer so it is second nature for me to compulsively crunch numbers. :)
 
Robbert said:
... tracking miles vs. charging kW at home is not going to work...
... Torque Pro doesn't work on a iPhone with most OBD-II readers, right? ...
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If you are charging partly for free that makes it worth not being able to collect data. Plus, it's not consistent enough to be useful anyway. At 120V 15 A there will be significant losses in the OBC (on board charger).
Yes, you need an Android phone. I use an iPhone as well and so bought a Samsung A10 for this and use it without the SIM as that would add another $19 a month to my expenses. The Android version must be relatively new, check the app's page. I thought about using a cheap tablet but the A10 has a much nicer screen and is a relative bargain.
Obviously you need a Bluetooth dongle, my one is a cheap blue ELM327 but you might want to get one with a switch so you can power it off manually. My one just goes to sleep after 30 min, which also works, but I generally unplug it after use. You can't close the OBD/fuse cover with the dongle in place/
Francois said:
Count me in as interested. I am a software developer so it is second nature for me to compulsively crunch numbers. :)
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I will make a dedicated post to set this up.
 
BlueKonaEV said:
Yesterday, I passed a late model F350 turbo diesel pickup truck (dually) which was going slow and ended up at the same light as him.. He rev'd his engine at me, so we took off.. Speed limit was 65 mph and I went off the accelerator at that speed, so I didn't exceed the speed limit (at least not by a lot).. I did pull away from the truck even though not by much.. Looked up the truck's specs and late model F350 Turbo Diesels get 7.2 seconds from 0 - 60, so not much slower than the Kona.. The Kona is very fast.. Would be even A LOT faster if you could get traction..
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Kona is quicker with non-Nexxen tires. Safer, too.
 
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