240V + Fix for tight Hyundai OEM J1772 charger cap

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GdB

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Just a quick note, I did the light bulb test and confirmed the OEM Hyundai Kona charger works at 240V and have been using mine with a homemade adapter cord to use it at 240V, twice as fast and simple!

But the dust cap is annoyingly tight to take off so I drilled a 1/8" hole from the inside view near the end and them hacksawed a slot so the cap can flex and still keep the dust out when capped. Now it slides on and off much easier and with the stress relief 1/8" hole the slot should not crack until it gets really sun aged.

The slot is on the side next to the retainer strap, which is most often facing down so its good for moisture drainage also.
 

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I made a "doubler" to run the OEM charger off two separate 110v circuits, and get L2 speeds (need to find circuits that are on opposite busses of the panel). Works great, and we pack it when traveling.
However, you can't use these on GFI outlets or circuits, because GFI checks that current is the same on hot and neutral wires, and with this setup there's no current on the neutral wires since you're using 220v difference between the two hots on the separate circuits.)

It just means you're not likely to be able to use an outdoor circuit, or anything in the kitchen or bathrooms (these should all be GFI according to code).
Easy way to get faster destination charging though, if you're willing to poke around a little.
 
Because the superchargers need to talk to your car and they talk a different language. It's like you want to order a pizza in China, not speaking the language.

I heard that the "Tesla-protocol" is actually very close to the CCS protocol. But the very minimal requirement would be plug&charge. So a Ford Mustang Mach-E might technically be able to do it.

But obviously Tesla would have to allow it and have an account for the Mach-E as well.
 
Paul DeLeon said:
Dumb question.
Why can't we connect the Tesla DC Supercharger to our DC ports with some custom cord?
Click to expand...

The communications protocol between charger and car are, I believe, very different... so that custom cord would be chock full of custom active electronics. I do not know if Tesla has some magic sauce to verify that a connected vehicle is a genuine Tesla vehicle or not, but given how they seem to love collecting data it would not surprise me much if a supercharger refuses to work unless it gets a valid vehicle ID or some other handshaking nonsense.
 
Watching Rich Rebuilds Youtube channel where he repaired salvaged Teslas, each Tesla shares it's ID to enable supercharging. Some get free charging, salvaged are completely blocked for "safety".
 
Tesla's connector shares the DC and AC pin's, but not at the same time. Teslas have some way of switching modes to either go directly to the battery, or go to the onboard inverter.

Theoretically, if someone made a DCFC to Tesla adapter with big relay's or only usable for DCFC and reverse engineered the protocol, and shared a whole bunch of Tesla VIN's with permission and maybe commission, and Tesla did not have a way to find out, it could work.

A better way would be for a law to be enacted to force sharing. Maybe that will happen one day after someone dies from heat or cold because they did not have access to a working charger because of incompatibility.
 
NRH said:
I made a "doubler" to run the OEM charger off two separate 110v circuits, and get L2 speeds (need to find circuits that are on opposite busses of the panel). Works great, and we pack it when traveling.
However, you can't use these on GFI outlets or circuits, because GFI checks that current is the same on hot and neutral wires, and with this setup there's no current on the neutral wires since you're using 220v difference between the two hots on the separate circuits.)

It just means you're not likely to be able to use an outdoor circuit, or anything in the kitchen or bathrooms (these should all be GFI according to code).
Easy way to get faster destination charging though, if you're willing to poke around a little.
Click to expand...


I am interested in making my own "doubler". Just to make sure that I understand what you did, you ran cables from two 110v outlets that are on two separate circuits into a sort of junction box (a.k.a. the "doubler") and then plugged the OEM charging cable that comes with the Kona into that box and it charged at L2 speed? What kind of outlet did you install on the junction box?
 
Vlad said:
I am interested in making my own "doubler". Just to make sure that I understand what you did, you ran cables from two 110v outlets that are on two separate circuits into a sort of junction box (a.k.a. the "doubler") and then plugged the OEM charging cable that comes with the Kona into that box and it charged at L2 speed? What kind of outlet did you install on the junction box?
Click to expand...

Not just two separate circuits; one from each side of the split phase panel. In most household panels (in the US at least) this means every other row; e.g. if one circuit is position 1 then the other side of the split phase is positions 3 (immediately below 1), 4 (across from 3), 7, 8, 11, 12 etc.

Please be *extremely* careful since you are possibly creating a situation where you can have exposed plug prongs that are live at 120V relative to ground. (Should go without saying that this is also illegal but that's also your problem...)
 
You can also just use a dryer outlet, much easier and possibly safer since it's wired for high amperage:
 
Genevamech said:
Not just two separate circuits; one from each side of the split phase panel. In most household panels (in the US at least) this means every other row; e.g. if one circuit is position 1 then the other side of the split phase is positions 3 (immediately below 1), 4 (across from 3), 7, 8, 11, 12 etc.

Please be *extremely* careful since you are possibly creating a situation where you can have exposed plug prongs that are live at 120V relative to ground. (Should go without saying that this is also illegal but that's also your problem...)
Click to expand...


So if I were to do what you did, I would join the circuits from breaker # 1 and breaker # 3 as in the picture? This is not my actual panel, it's a pic I got from Google.

05EyT-a.webp
 
Vlad said:
So if I were to do what you did, I would join the circuits from breaker # 1 and breaker # 3 as in the picture? This is not my actual panel, it's a pic I got from Google.
Click to expand...

Correct. If we call either side of the 240V phase "A" and "B" respectively, then it breaks down as:

1A 3B 5A 7B 9A 11B...

and

2A 4B 6A 8B 10A 12B...

This is done so that no matter where you install a proper 2-pole breaker (there are 4 of them in that photo), you will always pick up both legs and get 240V.
 
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