2023 Mini Cooper SE Live Journal & Review

tesrivmini said:
The Bimmercode support page does list the options supported, though doesn't contain a huge amount of description of each option, but most are fairly intuitive: https://bimmercode.app/cars/f56/
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Wreckless117 said:
But if you know German (I think), you can go in expert mode and code directly and could do whatever your heart desires (like the climatize on trunk button, that would be cool). But you really have to be careful, probably more likely to screw up the car lol.
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The bimmercode.app/cars/f56 page is a start, but it's too bare-bones. Thirty-five years ago I used to be a technical writer for computer products and I think a good technical writer could make bimmercode options easier to understand and easier to implement. A bimmercode employee who was a good technical writer with usability experience could make bimmercode better. However, making bimmercode easier to use might have unintended consequences that are not difficult to imagine.

That said, I think it's wonderful that bimmercode exists and that BMW/MINI allows it to work for those who like to tinker with the way their cars work. I'm sure it would make the father of the Mini, Alec Issigonis, scratch his head and then laugh with approval.
 
Wreckless117 said:
Not at all :) I believe if I remember off hand right, it was under like instrument cluster > sport mode background. I believe gradient is the standard view that the SE has by default, and for me, the checkered and honeycomb options were flipped (checkered = honeycomb).
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I looked closely at my modes display today, and it seems my sport mode is checkered but it's very faint (I rarely use sport so hadn't noticed). Mid is solid gray and green/green+ are both solid green.
 
Puppethead said:
I looked closely at my modes display today, and it seems my sport mode is checkered but it's very faint (I rarely use sport so hadn't noticed). Mid is solid gray and green/green+ are both solid green.
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Interesting, I wonder if they changed it over the years. The checkered you described is one of the options. The gradient option is what I believe the SE are shipping with now.
 
Got charge port light in :-D did a quick dry run and works as hoped!! Fully integrated and OEM quality. Now have to actually find the time and do the required mods and fit it.

Will take plenty of pictures and do a write up for those that may want to tackle this project.
 
Wreckless117 said:
Got charge port light in :-D did a quick dry run and works as hoped!! Fully integrated and OEM quality. Now have to actually find the time and do the required mods and fit it.

Will take plenty of pictures and do a write up for those that may want to tackle this project.
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It will be interesting to see if MINI understands how they bungled our SE's charge-port illumination when we see the 2024 SE's charge port.
 
Teaser pics! Can't wait to actually see it at night...

Anybody want a how-to write up?


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That looks great! Count me among those who would love to see a write-up, as I may (eventually) attempt to replicate that very elegant-looking solution.
 
MichaelC said:
That looks great! Count me among those who would love to see a write-up, as I may (eventually) attempt to replicate that very elegant-looking solution.
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Thank you! It's actually relatively easy/simple in theory, so if your one that is good with your hands and tools, it should be easy to replicate. Took me about 3 hours, but that was also doing pictures and mock ups for fitment issues.
 
Once you're satisfied with all the LED swaps, a round-up of all the parts and procedures would be useful.
 
I saw you you have added the United Radar, I have an escort radar and I am going to try an Hardwire it to using Add circuit fuse tap, did you did it similar ? or another way, seems I can just push the cable to reach the Fuse area. Any pointers will appreciate it.
 
rlozano said:
I saw you you have added the United Radar, I have an escort radar and I am going to try an Hardwire it to using Add circuit fuse tap, did you did it similar ? or another way, seems I can just push the cable to reach the Fuse area. Any pointers will appreciate it.
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Hey sorry for the late response!

Yep routed along headliner down to side of door to into glovebox/footwell area.

There's a good grounding bolt under the carpet/door trim, so have to take those pieces off, but easy to find after that.

I hate suction cups, so I usually just use the regular mount and take off the cups, and then use 3M VHB double sided tape. Keeps it nice and tight. Just make sure to use some alcohol to clean both surfaces to make sure it bonds well.

Let me know if you need anything else!

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Awesome.
Wreckless117 said:
Hey sorry for the late response!

Yep routed along headliner down to side of door to into glovebox/footwell area.

There's a good grounding bolt under the carpet/door trim, so have to take those pieces off, but easy to find after that.

I hate suction cups, so I usually just use the regular mount and take off the cups, and then use 3M VHB double sided tape. Keeps it nice and tight. Just make sure to use some alcohol to clean both surfaces to make sure it bonds well.

Let me know if you need anything else!

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Awesome, that is a lot of help, still waiting on the tap a circuit. based on the circuit you tapped, is that the Horn circuit 56 ?

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Had a funny situation on the way to get a haircut today and it reminded me of what you wrote in your initial review of your SE. You said:

Power delivery immediately from a stop is a tad underwhelming to say the least, but I believe that has more to do with how the car is tuned to deliver power from that stage as actual full power would probably just destroy tires, but cruising in the 10-30mph range and then going 100% give quite a instant initial hit of torque that ends up fading around 50-60. It's not gonna win any armchair races, but it's really not bad at all for in town, it's pretty zippy.

As you might know my SE is lowered, aftermarket wheels, and dark windows. Being de-yellowed and de-yellow badged, it does not have the appearance of being an electric car. Kinda has the boy racer look to it without all of the stickers and so forth.

Some guy in a lowered loud Fiesta ST really wanted to get in front of me, no one was behind me and he really wanted to be in front of me. I sped up so he could get behind me because I was in a right turning lane so I could turn right. Rather than go behind me, he downshifted and nailed it. Then he started revving on me. OMG. We got stuck at a stop light, I accelerated slower so he could get in front of me but he didn't. I don't advocate street racing but no one was around and I heard him floor it again beside me. Being in the 10+ mph sweet spot, I just paced him. Then I heard him floor it, he got out ahead of me and I floored it. That Fiesta ST was pretty zippy too as my SE walked away from him. He ended up behind me since he also wanted to turn right and I was hoping he would see my "E" emboss on the gas cap door.

It was a short hit to no more than 50 mph but the guy who was with his girlfriend stayed way behind me after the right turn. I think he was trying to show off to his gf in his loud, lowered ST. Moral of the story, don't street race but if you run into a situation like that, be over 10 mph before you hit it.

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rlozano said:
Awesome.



Awesome, that is a lot of help, still waiting on the tap a circuit. based on the circuit you tapped, is that the Horn circuit 56 ?

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I don't think that was the one but I will look and get back to you. It powers on with the car.

MarkSasaki said:
Had a funny situation on the way to get a haircut today and it reminded me of what you wrote in your initial review of your SE. You said:

Power delivery immediately from a stop is a tad underwhelming to say the least, but I believe that has more to do with how the car is tuned to deliver power from that stage as actual full power would probably just destroy tires, but cruising in the 10-30mph range and then going 100% give quite a instant initial hit of torque that ends up fading around 50-60. It's not gonna win any armchair races, but it's really not bad at all for in town, it's pretty zippy.

As you might know my SE is lowered, aftermarket wheels, and dark windows. Being de-yellowed and de-yellow badged, it does not have the appearance of being an electric car. Kinda has the boy racer look to it without all of the stickers and so forth.

Some guy in a lowered loud Fiesta ST really wanted to get in front of me, no one was behind me and he really wanted to be in front of me. I sped up so he could get behind me because I was in a right turning lane so I could turn right. Rather than go behind me, he downshifted and nailed it. Then he started revving on me. OMG. We got stuck at a stop light, I accelerated slower so he could get in front of me but he didn't. I don't advocate street racing but no one was around and I heard him floor it again beside me. Being in the 10+ mph sweet spot, I just paced him. Then I heard him floor it, he got out ahead of me and I floored it. That Fiesta ST was pretty zippy too as my SE walked away from him. He ended up behind me since he also wanted to turn right and I was hoping he would see my "E" emboss on the gas cap door.

It was a short hit to no more than 50 mph but the guy who was with his girlfriend stayed way behind me after the right turn. I think he was trying to show off to his gf in his loud, lowered ST. Moral of the story, don't street race but if you run into a situation like that, be over 10 mph before you hit it.

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Ha! Love to hear it! But yea from a dig it's meh, 10-20 and your a cheeky monkey! Lol

Btw what is the offset of your wheel?
 
I haven’t really noticed the weight shifting much when I mat the pedal, but I imagine the rear KW dampers eliminate all of the transfer and help keep the front tires planted.
 
Wreckless117 said:
Mods:

Everything so far besides window tint was DIY.

Like I said previously, I do not like the chrome bits on the car, and I knew this while ordering the car. The dealer wanted over $2k to install the replacement pieces with black OEM parts. I said no thanks. Budget car is getting budget build. Only OEM parts I've used so far is the badges and the door handles. Badges can make or break the quality look and they aren't that expensive. Door handles get used all the time, so going cheap isn't a good idea either. Both are easy to install.

The rest is getting vinyl wrapped or removed. The headlight and taillight trim rings can be a little tricky to remove without breaking, but allowed a complete wrap around the edges and is nearly an OEM look, maybe not as glossy smooth with a little bit of orange peel effect, but 90% there. Also wrapped the side fender sconce chrome bit as well. Completely removed the huge ugly yellow badge and the chrome cooper letters, leaving just the subtle yellow "S" on the hatch. So clean. I can live with the tiny bit of chrome on all the S badges.

Still have to wrap the front grill ring and the beltline. Not using a precut beltline kit will make the vinyl fit and look better without shrinking over time, as it will preshrink during install with a touch of heat gun before cutting off the excess. Also will be lightly tinting the rear tail lights with film, just to tone down the red just a bit, and the headlights will be getting a sick photochromic PPF. Yep, the headlights will turn dark during the day, and will be clear at night, so no decrease in light projection at night. Can't wait to get that done.



Maintenance/issues:

None so far!




Currently how it sits:

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I read this with excitement bc English is my second language your righting was the best on this forum!
 
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