2022 SE temperature on top of the engine

  • Thread starter Thread starter Rexsio
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@Rexsio, the thing you are measuring is the EME. The enclosure includes the inverter, the DC/DC converter, and an ECU controlling a bunch of things like the motor parking lock. It also happens to have two internal temperature sensors and is liquid cooled (see #2 and #12 below for coolant in/out)

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The outer surface of the EME enclosure will not match the temperature of the internal components and cooling the outside surface won't necessarily make the internal components cooler because they probably have a very small contact area with the enclosure (a couple of mounting screws) and will have very low heat transfer

If you really want to keep the temperatures down for the important components (motor/inverter/battery) the best thing you can do is to keep the power meter as low as possible and avoid strong regen.
 
Rexsio said:
The thermometer is not laying to me the difference with plastic cover and without is obvious to me and as long nobody is doing what I did I don’t see any argument here .Thermometer with probe on Amazon $10 do your experiment I just extended wiring bc was to short come with plug 5volts plug in ubs.
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I'm not saying it is, I am wanting to understand why the cover makes such a big difference given it only sits on top and there is a hood directly above it. Unless where you were measuring happened to be shielded from direct airflow cooling with the cover in place, so it's not so much a case of trapped heat under teh hood in general, just in that particular spot due to not getting passing air.

The next question is, does it matter?
As in does it make an actual difference to the performance or life of a component?

A lot of gamers who build their own PC obsess about having as low a CPU temperature as possible, even if it's not getting hot enough to thermal throttle.
They just "don't like it" and feel the chip would last longer if it ran cooler.
A fair argument but, I've been in IT since longer than I am willing to admit and I have never seen a CPU fail due to heat if within spec. Not once in the tens of thousands of machines I have dealt with, even on servers running 24/7 in an un-air conditioned closet for years.

But your findings are interesting, we just need to figure out if removing the cover is worth doing or not, regardless of temperature. Living in Texas I'm all for keeping stuff cool, but I want to know it will actually provide a tangible benefit vs an assumed one.
 
AndysComputer said:
I'm not saying it is, I am wanting to understand why the cover makes such a big difference given it only sits on top and there is a hood directly above it. Unless where you were measuring happened to be shielded from direct airflow cooling with the cover in place, so it's not so much a case of trapped heat under teh hood in general, just in that particular spot due to not getting passing air.

The next question is, does it matter?
As in does it make an actual difference to the performance or life of a component?

A lot of gamers who build their own PC obsess about having as low a CPU temperature as possible, even if it's not getting hot enough to thermal throttle.
They just "don't like it" and feel the chip would last longer if it ran cooler.
A fair argument but, I've been in IT since longer than I am willing to admit and I have never seen a CPU fail due to heat if within spec. Not once in the tens of thousands of machines I have dealt with, even on servers running 24/7 in an un-air conditioned closet for years.

But your findings are interesting, we just need to figure out if removing the cover is worth doing or not, regardless of temperature. Living in Texas I'm all for keeping stuff cool, but I want to know it will actually provide a tangible benefit vs an assumed one.
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Rexsio said:
Probe was located on top and in center of plastic cover.I like all yours answers what is going there under a cover and hood my approach was very simplistic to measure and compare a difference but at least I provoke smart members to try have an answers what is going there.For summer my cover is off but for winter I put cover back and use a blanket too to keep my baby warm.
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To everybody information without cover with temperatures 85-95’ I m not going above 100’ F . At all which before I was in 103-107’ all a time .Idea is to not abuse cooling system .
 
Just curious - when I had a Jaguar XKR; I hooked up my OB2 bluetooth reader and could read coolant temperature, voltage, RPM all sorts of data... has anyone looked at the OB2 port data that it shows maybe in the Torque app? I think coolant temperature would be the one to watch?

(just thinking out loud but I like the data/test you're putting up Rexsio)
 
Matt007b said:
Just curious - when I had a Jaguar XKR; I hooked up my OB2 bluetooth reader and could read coolant temperature, voltage, RPM all sorts of data... has anyone looked at the OB2 port data that it shows maybe in the Torque app? I think coolant temperature would be the one to watch?

(just thinking out loud but I like the data/test you're putting up Rexsio)
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I couldn't get Torque to connect at all. I've mentioned it a couple of times in random other threads but EVs don't have to comply with the OBD standard so they range from no OBD port (Tesla) to somewhat compliant cars like the MINI.

The one app that did work (electrified, Android) does show battery temperature but no clue if that's coolant temp or some sort of cell/module average
 
Carsten Haase said:
I couldn't get Torque to connect at all. I've mentioned it a couple of times in random other threads but EVs don't have to comply with the OBD standard so they range from no OBD port (Tesla) to somewhat compliant cars like the MINI.

The one app that did work (electrified, Android) does show battery temperature but no clue if that's coolant temp or some sort of cell/module average
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Ah bummer - well least we have some sort of battery temperature but thanks for letting me know that. I was planning on using Torque - but I'll use that app instead. I know Nissan Leaf owners have apps specific to leaf's to watch battery degradation. Would be good to see temps and battery life status over the years (anyway thank you for the response)
 
Matt007b said:
Ah bummer - well least we have some sort of battery temperature but thanks for letting me know that. I was planning on using Torque - but I'll use that app instead. I know Nissan Leaf owners have apps specific to leaf's to watch battery degradation. Would be good to see temps and battery life status over the years (anyway thank you for the response)
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"Car scanner" also should work (haven't tried myself yet) and may have more detail. The electrified app was originally for the bmw i3 but just happens to work on the MINI too since they share most of the EV components
 
Rexsio said:
To everybody information without cover with temperatures 85-95’ I m not going above 100’ F . At all which before I was in 103-107’ all a time .Idea is to not abuse cooling system .
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Today with outside temperature 97’ and short trips driving AC on 68 ‘ green setting and maximum regen plastic motor cover on shelf in my garage I set my record of 120 ‘ .On highway with speed 60 Miles/hr temperature was 93-97’ without cover.
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JonR said:
@Carsten Haase where did you get that diagram of the cooling system?
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I've posted it somewhere else but it's not easy to find things on here so here it is again.

It's technically a training document for the BMW i3 but almost all of the EV components are identical in the MINI so the info is still relevant. This is for the launch i3 so doesn't have info about the i3s motor used in the MINI (although the design should be similar)

There's also one specifically for the HVAC system, just ignore the sections related to the REX version of the i3.
 

Attachments

Carsten Haase said:
I've posted it somewhere else but it's not easy to find things on here so here it is again.

It's technically a training document for the BMW i3 but almost all of the EV components are identical in the MINI so the info is still relevant. This is for the launch i3 so doesn't have info about the i3s motor used in the MINI (although the design should be similar)

There's also one specifically for the HVAC system, just ignore the sections related to the REX version of the i3.
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I’m not able download what you send here but I own i3 for 6 years and I never measure temperature on it a motor arrangement is in back of I 3 have a bottom of a i3 was completely open to a bottom a lot of air flow there but SE motor is completely enclosed from hood to bottom enclosure. If you in hot climates just touch a silver bars holding motor you see how hot thy are .Why I’m exploring this temperatures bc I read on Motor Trend magazine in a beginning of SE how easy is to over heat SE . Obviously Bmw build bulletproof cooling system but I’m checking those temperatures for my own knowledge .Motor Trend magazine also said is a most complicated HAVC system of all EVs.I3 basically the same motor on SE is improved from i3 S heat exchange pump the same and all electronics the same from brakes or suspension 3 series . Is a Guacamole of a i3 and ACE Mini Cooper . But as cheapest EV I love a car performance and is still BMW .Today I try to reach maximum speed a speedometer show me 94 miles/ hour. Great for go cart.
 
AndysComputer said:
Motor Trend have sadly proven themselves over the last few years as having no idea about anything when it comes to EV’s…
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Than who can have good reviews about EV s or all of them just kids without knowledge about any EV or ACE cars they just good with blogs and computer without knowing where is gas or charge a car outlet .
 
Carsten Haase said:
I'm not debating your results, I'm sure the temperature where you are measuring is higher with the cover on than with it removed.

What I don't necessarily agree with is the importance of what you are measuring: what does reducing the temperature under the plastic cover improve?
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Lower temperatures are not deteriorating cables inverter and all components as fast and a cooling system is not working hard unnecessarily also 12 volt battery stay cooler and I don’t understand why they cover 12 V. Battery so tight with plastic cover .Today outside 104’ and without a cover over motor I read 123’ under a hood driving car with AC on 68’.I run an attic fan in my garage and with open hood in a car temperature went down to 100’ in 15 minutes. Garage temperature now is 80’ and like 10 hours later a motor is reaching 80’ but takes 10 hr. to reach that.My attic fan I run only when I need when I’m working there .
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Rexsio said:
Lower temperatures are not deteriorating cables inverter and all components as fast and a cooling system is not working hard unnecessarily also 12 volt battery stay cooler and I don’t understand why they cover 12 V. Battery so tight with plastic cover .Today outside 104’ and without a cover over motor I read 123’ under a hood driving car with AC on 68’.I run an attic fan in my garage and with open hood in a car temperature went down to 100’ in 15 minutes. Garage temperature now is 80’ and like 10 hours later a motor is reaching 80’ but takes 10 hr. to reach that.My attic fan I run only when I need when I’m working there .
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Rexio's making breakfast (but he's smart enough not to fry greasy bacon on his hood) :)

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insightman said:
Rexio's making breakfast (but he's smart enough not to fry greasy bacon on his hood) :)

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You see I don’t give a crab if SE explode tomorrow is not my first EV but for curiosity I’m measuring a temperature for $10 thermometer to keep me busy .And as you in Ann Harbor summer could be similar as NY but winter good lack if you keep that SE outdoor . I bet you have more cars as me and we don’t care about winter conditions my crab sits in 60 ‘ garage at winter and I’m polishing a bumpers .
 
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