2020 Kia E-Niro VESS/Reverse Chime defeat solution

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3dwardX said:
Part No is 93700G5FH0WK
It fit and work just perfect. Just plug and play ;) :)
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Do you recall where you purchased it? Some quick searching did not find any Kia parts store (even a couple in Europe) which recognized that part #. Thanks
 
Crash said:
Do you recall where you purchased it? Some quick searching did not find any Kia parts store (even a couple in Europe) which recognized that part #. Thanks
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I just sold my niro and have one from a wrecked car from Portugal - I can send it to you for $100 including shipping.
 
3XG said:
A big thanks to all of those that have contributed to this thread so far! Thanks to you, I was able to install the switch with no issues. To give back a little, I thought I'd add in a couple of images that might help others do the same and maybe even make the task a little easier.

1. Create Switch Assembly

First up, it looks like I ordered the same momentary push switch, with LED light, that many others have ordered from Amazon. Shown in (image) 1A is my wiring diagram, and how the switch connects to the "blue " (really blue with a black stripe) and "pink" wires on the wiring harness. (Image) 1B shows the data sheet that came with the switch. I didn’t use any of their wiring examples because none of them matched up with what I wanted to do. 1C shows how I soldered the wires in. It came with a plug that plugged into the back of the switch, but I chose to solder because I was worried about the depth of the whole thing near the fuses (In retrospect, I probably didn’t need to worry, and it would have been nice to be able to unplug that if I need to bring the car in for service). The wires I used are slightly too big (gauge-wise), but that is all I had sitting around. You can also see how I used heat-shrink tubing to insulate all of the wires individually. Then I used a larger heat shrink tube to insulate everything and provide some strain relief as shown in 1D. 1E shows me testing the LED light using a typical healthy battery voltage of 13.2V. From the data sheet, it wasn’t clear whether you needed to add a resistor, but this confirmed I didn’t need one.




2. Install Switch in Fuse Panel

With the switch assembly done, I decided to install it in the fuse cover door that is found near your left knee when sitting in the driver’s seat (in the US at least). Seemed to me that the fuse panel would be easy and cheap to replace when my lease is up, and that location is easy to reach while driving. I drilled a hole in the door where I could still read the fuse diagram on the back. These images show where I drilled (2A), what the hole looked like after drilling (2B,2C), and what the switch looked like installed (2D, 2E). I really recommend this tapered type of drill bit for drilling big holes in plastic.




3. Open Up The Dash

Next up was opening up the dash. (Image) 3A shows the use of a plastic automotive trim pry tool (Harbor Freight) to open up the side panel. Rotate the panel open like a door (3B). You don’t have to remove that piece of plastic, just leave it sitting there, rotated open. Use a screwdriver to remove the two screws (see yellow circles in 3B and also 3C) that are now exposed. Then pull the bottom panel away from the dash as shown in 3D & 3E. Notice the “hooks” in the switch panel above… that hooks into the “tabs” in the bottom panel. This is why you need to pull the bottom panel out a little… just enough to let the switch panel above it clear the tabs in the lower panel.



Not sure of the etiquette, but to keep a single post from becoming too long, I'll continue in the next post...
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Do you know how much power is running over these wires? I really didn't want to tap the wires on the harness but I had some spare raspberry pi gpio wires laying around that I thought could work. I have some of the male tipped wires and if you take off the black plastic cover, it exposes the crimped male tip. That tip easily fits down inside the wire harness connector. It feels snug and when it's secured in place with electrical tape, it's not moving.

My only concern though is how small those gpio wires are. You can pretty much brake them in half without any effort. I hooked it up and tested and it does in fact work. And it will be very easy to remove since there was no wire tapping needed. But I'm concerned of the wires burning out. Raspberry pi can use them and run 5v over them, but I don't know if that is good enough for this application.
 
Blevinsderek06 said:
Do you know how much power is running over these wires? I really didn't want to tap the wires on the harness but I had some spare raspberry pi gpio wires laying around that I thought could work. I have some of the male tipped wires and if you take off the black plastic cover, it exposes the crimped male tip. That tip easily fits down inside the wire harness connector. It feels snug and when it's secured in place with electrical tape, it's not moving.

My only concern though is how small those gpio wires are. You can pretty much brake them in half without any effort. I hooked it up and tested and it does in fact work. And it will be very easy to remove since there was no wire tapping needed. But I'm concerned of the wires burning out. Raspberry pi can use them and run 5v over them, but I don't know if that is good enough for this application.
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They carry no current. They are signal wires. Remember that without the switch these wire serve no purpose, so there is no damage done if something goes wrong. Except the mod won't work
 
I have this part if somebody need it, just msg me. :)
Dealer just bought 2 of them by mistake and second one is useless for me.
 

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frkrygow said:
I silenced my month old 2022 Kia Niro EV yesterday. My first preference was to switch the "memory" fuse circuit by tapping into that fuse receptacle slot, but I couldn't find a fuse tap for a Micro2 fuse locally. So I pulled the panels and tapped into the switch panel's wire as in https://www.insideevsforum.com/community/index.php?attachments/img_1843-jpg.12206/ I used a 1" x 1/2" x1/4" microswitch that I had lying around, and instead of also tapping into the black ground wire, I wired to a grounded screw within the dash. I just used double sided tape to mount the microswitch inside and just above the fuse door opening.

Working in the tight space was sometimes frustrating, and it took me two hours, but It works perfectly and is essentially invisible. One touch prevents the blaring VESS reverse. A second touch, or re-starting the car, resets it to normal. Thanks to all who worked on these solutions.
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This is exactly what I did. It took less than 30 minutes and didn't involve all of the difficult panel-work and re-wiring that is the primary subject of this thread. Nothing against that method - it looks elegant and may be better in some way - I just wanted to save time and effort.
I found a fuse-tap on Amazon I could just plug into the fuse panel and wire it through a switch that I mounted in the fuse panel. I flick the switch off before going into reverse and it disables Vess (and a few other things that are on that circuit that aren't critical at low speed), and then flick it on when I am going forward. I also bought a spare fuse panel so that I can remove it when I go to the dealer to avoid any warranty questions. We feel the relief of not having to listen to the obnoxiously loud backup sound every time we drive the car.
 
Sorry if I missed this somewhere in the thread, I tried to look for it. Is there a way to muffle the speaker so that the sound is not so loud? Messing with the wiring is scary to me. Thanks.
 
Tim Mangini said:
This is exactly what I did. It took less than 30 minutes and didn't involve all of the difficult panel-work and re-wiring that is the primary subject of this thread. Nothing against that method - it looks elegant and may be better in some way - I just wanted to save time and effort.
I found a fuse-tap on Amazon I could just plug into the fuse panel and wire it through a switch that I mounted in the fuse panel. I flick the switch off before going into reverse and it disables Vess (and a few other things that are on that circuit that aren't critical at low speed), and then flick it on when I am going forward. I also bought a spare fuse panel so that I can remove it when I go to the dealer to avoid any warranty questions. We feel the relief of not having to listen to the obnoxiously loud backup sound every time we drive the car.
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Difficult panel work? you mean remove the fuse panel cover? turn 3 screws or whatever?

seriously, but hey by all means disable other parts of the vehicle because you don't want to take the fuse panel off
 
hvluve said:
What's the blue/black wire? Does Kia sorento have the same wire?
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Read the instructions at the beginning, and the diagrams explain it. Who knows if the Sorrento has the wire, maybe it does maybe it doesn't. What year? pay for access to the wiring diagrams and find out.
 
ENirogus and others,

Thanks for all the details in this thread. We have a 2020 EV Niro and this is the only thing I would change on this car.

I've tapped into the blue-black, pink and black wires with red MCIGICM T-Tap Wire Connectors and hooked up APIELE 12mm Momentary Push Button.
Somehow this does not want to work for me.
1. Can I check the T-Tap connections on the wires with a multimeter?
I assume nominal 12V between black and blue-black?
Same for Pink-Black?
2. Can I test if this works by momentarily touching the blue-black and black wires, in case my push button switch is faulty?

TIA
Items used:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081PVPZZM?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091CVMG49?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

 
KIA Niro 2020 said:
ENirogus and others,

Thanks for all the details in this thread. We have a 2020 EV Niro and this is the only thing I would change on this car.

I've tapped into the blue-black, pink and black wires with red MCIGICM T-Tap Wire Connectors and hooked up APIELE 12mm Momentary Push Button.
Somehow this does not want to work for me.
1. Can I check the T-Tap connections on the wires with a multimeter?
I assume nominal 12V between black and blue-black?
Same for Pink-Black?
2. Can I test if this works by momentarily touching the blue-black and black wires, in case my push button switch is faulty?

TIA
Items used:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081PVPZZM?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091CVMG49?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
Click to expand...
I figured it out. Somehow the instructions in the earlier pdf in this thread threw me off.
After scrutinizing the youtube from #176 in this thread:
https://www.insideevsforum.com/comm...hime-defeat-solution.11245/page-9#post-201631
all worked and I also mounted the push button in the same spot.
Thanks again to everyone that contributed to solving this 'garbage truck backup sound'.
 
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