12V battery
- Thread starter electriceddy
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Only when servicing...don't leave it unplugged permanently otherwise the security alarm will go off when car is shut down. It thinks someone is breaking into the hood.
Ferenc Jakab
Active Member
Mine has been pulled for about three months and no probs so far..... 22-23 Kona
I will have to try that connector disconnect again, I do remember when I re-installed the plug with the doors closed and locked, hood open obviously (car in "sleep mode" more than 10 minutes after shutoff), the alarm went off - as I had to scramble to find the key fob to shut it off. I had been testing the 12V draw at the time and had left the hood open for a couple of hours monitoring with a meter.
Maybe it does work OK just disconnected, just remember if re-installing it, do so when the car is unlocked and "awake", or try the above to find out for yourself
This was on my 2018 built model.
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Ferenc Jakab
Active Member
Mine was unlocked but switched off.
Hi Kiwi. My apologies if you already covered this elsewhere, but based on this information, do you mean that if I leave my car undriven for 3 months or so I don't need to do anything? My dealer told me to use a trickle charger. I'm fine with that, but what do you think?
KiwiME
Well-Known Member
The Kona will charge the 12V battery for 20 minutes once a day over the long term although I've noticed that it doesn't keep it at 100%, more like 85%. There's nothing harmful about adding a trickle charger if you wish and that might be a good idea in a cold region. But don't leave the hood open to do that otherwise the automatic charging won't work.
You'd want the traction battery to be start at about 80% for that time period.
You'd want the traction battery to be start at about 80% for that time period.
thank you, you are the best! I do live in a cold climate. The trickle charger needs to plug into a wall outlet so I am not sure if I can close the hood because of the wire. I can probably close it onto the wire but then the latch wouldn't catch and the car would likely detect it as still open. I need to check to see if there's a way to thread it in from under the hood maybe. Like you I have a 2019, limited, but no heater pump here in the US for that year.
Ferenc Jakab
Active Member
If you go back in this thread you can see some pics where I have disconnected the bonnet (hood) sensor plug. You could do this and then reconnect when you return to using the car. Then it won't matter that your bonnet is popped. I've permanently taped that off and at 75,000kms have no problems with it. I taped it off at about 20,000.
KiwiME
Well-Known Member
Here's an example of what happens when the (1st-gen) Kona goes into a deeper sleep state after ~56 hours parked, noting that it's a 15 day scale on the first image. The 12V battery suffers a gradual loss of charge.
A solution might be to set a scheduled traction-battery charge for 1 hour per day AND a charge limit of say 50% (or whatever it happened to be left with).
The portable EVSE would be left plugged in it and set to the lowest current, or drop the current setting on the dash.
The Kona will attempt to start a traction-battery charge event once a day but (theoretically) not succeed until the traction battery charge drops by 1%. A 1% charge takes around 1/2 to one hour and that will kick-start a new round of 12V battery charging for the next 56 hours.
A solution might be to set a scheduled traction-battery charge for 1 hour per day AND a charge limit of say 50% (or whatever it happened to be left with).
The portable EVSE would be left plugged in it and set to the lowest current, or drop the current setting on the dash.
The Kona will attempt to start a traction-battery charge event once a day but (theoretically) not succeed until the traction battery charge drops by 1%. A 1% charge takes around 1/2 to one hour and that will kick-start a new round of 12V battery charging for the next 56 hours.
I was in the habit of leaving the key-fob inside my 2021 Kona EV and not locking the car as it is kept in my garage. The 12 volt battery ran down. Roadside service chap said I must lock the car and keep the key-fob some metres away. If not locked he said the starter will ‘look for’ the key and use up battery. Is this correct?
I love this car!
I love this car!
This is correct.
Note: Your initial post was merged into this thread as "12 v battery" was already created. Perhaps review content to learn more regarding 12V issues. The search function is your friend
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Genevamech
Active Member
I think this is the correct place to ask this.
Long story short, the 12V battery died and I replaced it over the weekend. I decided to fire up CarScanner and keep an eye on the voltage to satisfy myself it was charging properly, and that's when I noticed some weirdness.
On startup everything was at ~14.6v as normal. I noticed that it would drop to ~13v when I put it in drive, UNLESS it was regenning.. e.g. I let off the throttle, voltage climbs back to ~14+v until I come to a complete stop. See attached screenshot I captured as I stopped at a light; 14.8v when coasting (Level 1 regen), drops to 13V when I come to a full stop, a little bump when I move forward in the queue, then come to a stop again (back to 14.8v and down again). The graph matches the throttle position basically perfect.
This morning I watched it again and it was ~14.6v the whole trip. On the way home it was doing this again.
I like to think I would have noticed this sooner since I usually have CarScanner open on longer trips, so this is a new flavor of weirdness. Any ideas what might be going on? Did the battery dying cause something to get scrambled, or did something break causing the battery to die?
(Note: I did load test the battery outside the car before buying a new one, it was not healthy)
Long story short, the 12V battery died and I replaced it over the weekend. I decided to fire up CarScanner and keep an eye on the voltage to satisfy myself it was charging properly, and that's when I noticed some weirdness.
On startup everything was at ~14.6v as normal. I noticed that it would drop to ~13v when I put it in drive, UNLESS it was regenning.. e.g. I let off the throttle, voltage climbs back to ~14+v until I come to a complete stop. See attached screenshot I captured as I stopped at a light; 14.8v when coasting (Level 1 regen), drops to 13V when I come to a full stop, a little bump when I move forward in the queue, then come to a stop again (back to 14.8v and down again). The graph matches the throttle position basically perfect.
This morning I watched it again and it was ~14.6v the whole trip. On the way home it was doing this again.
I like to think I would have noticed this sooner since I usually have CarScanner open on longer trips, so this is a new flavor of weirdness. Any ideas what might be going on? Did the battery dying cause something to get scrambled, or did something break causing the battery to die?
(Note: I did load test the battery outside the car before buying a new one, it was not healthy)
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Genevamech
Active Member
That would make a lot of sense if it did it consistently. Like I said it's not something I've ever noticed before, and I usually connect CarScanner when taking anything I would consider a "long trip" (100+ mi in a day). It didn't do it Tuesday, Wednedsay, or Thursday (today) morning. It didn't do it this afternoon. It did do it Sunday when I took it for a ~50mi drive after replacing the battery, and it did it Tue and Wed afternoons. The inconsistency is why I'm feeling sus about it.