0w-16 oil
- Thread starter Dewayne
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David in TN
Well-Known Member
Robert_Alabama
Well-Known Member
As little as I run the ICE in my car and as often as Honda will make me change the oil, I'll stay with the specified oil just to make Honda happy. I don't think I could wear the ICE any appreciable amount if I had to in the lifetime of the car.
KentuckyKen
Well-Known Member
At the risk of losing my Man Card, just read and follow the instructions.
BTW, my ICE had only ~13 hours and <700 miles (7,800 total) on it in the first 12 months when I dutifully changed the oil for the first time.
BTW, my ICE had only ~13 hours and <700 miles (7,800 total) on it in the first 12 months when I dutifully changed the oil for the first time.
The Gadgeteer
Active Member
I would not try to guess about something the Honda engineers already know.
Plus 0W-16 is inferior to 0W-20 anyway. They are both 0w base oils with the 16 having less modifiers for less upper heat range than the 20. So zero advantage and less protection, stick with 0w-20.
Plus 0W-16 is inferior to 0W-20 anyway. They are both 0w base oils with the 16 having less modifiers for less upper heat range than the 20. So zero advantage and less protection, stick with 0w-20.
I only have 6k miles and I bought mine in October but it is already telling me I need to change the oil. Ummmmmm, why?
KentuckyKen
Well-Known Member
The Maintenace Minder will try to reduce the number of times you have to go in for service (just a coincidence that it increased dealer profit I'm sure) by advancing some maintenance intervals. In most cases it moves up the oil change (A) to coincide with the tire rotation (1) and maybe the inspection (O).
If you just do the tire rotation (and maybe the inspection) and reset the MM for that service(s), you will more than likely see the oil change interval (A) pushed back a few months or more. This is especially nice for those who have relatively little HV miles.
It seems to me that the MM is working off total miles for the oil change and not HV miles for the oil change which would make a lot more sense.
The Gadgeteer
Active Member
The maintenance minder also knows that your oil is getting to be about 6 months old. Yes, oil get old once put into service and should be changed at least every 6 months regardless of miles. Just about ever engine manufacturer recommends the same thing.
To quote Consumer reports:
"
It’s not just about miles: If you don’t drive your car a lot, your oil still needs to be kept fresh. Even if you drive fewer miles each year than your automaker suggests changing the oil (say, 6,000 miles, with suggested oil-change intervals at 7,500 miles), you should still be getting that oil changed twice a year.
Why? Oil becomes less effective as it ages, and by not getting the engine warm enough, excess moisture that forms in the engine will not be removed, which can lead to shorter engine life.
"
https://www.consumerreports.org/car-maintenance/things-to-know-about-oil-changes-for-your-car/
To quote Consumer reports:
"
It’s not just about miles: If you don’t drive your car a lot, your oil still needs to be kept fresh. Even if you drive fewer miles each year than your automaker suggests changing the oil (say, 6,000 miles, with suggested oil-change intervals at 7,500 miles), you should still be getting that oil changed twice a year.
Why? Oil becomes less effective as it ages, and by not getting the engine warm enough, excess moisture that forms in the engine will not be removed, which can lead to shorter engine life.
"
https://www.consumerreports.org/car-maintenance/things-to-know-about-oil-changes-for-your-car/
KentuckyKen
Well-Known Member
FYI, the manual says oil change interval can be up to one year if the MM does not indicate sooner. Also GM allows up to a 2 year interval in the Volt in some cases. Following the manufacture’s recommendation is always best. And no study so far has produced any evidence that changing the oil any sooner than recommended provides any benefit for engine wear.
I trust Honda a lot more than CR.
Resetting the MM for a service other than the oil change is not extending the oil change past the MM’s set point, it’s just keeping the MM from moving the oil change up sooner than necessary.
I trust Honda a lot more than CR.
Resetting the MM for a service other than the oil change is not extending the oil change past the MM’s set point, it’s just keeping the MM from moving the oil change up sooner than necessary.
The Gadgeteer
Active Member
I stand corrected. Honda manual does say the MM might go to a year for the oil. I forgot the Honda 0W-20 is a synthetic blend oil and can go longer. I learned something today. Thank you.
neal adkins
Active Member
Oil is not rocket science. I would not use the 0w-16 in southern Arizona or other climates where the temp exceeds 100 degrees. It could be a possibility in cooler climates. But i would do some research before switching. In the past most manuals suggest different viscosities depending on ambient temp. My philosophy is while under warranty to adhere to what is reccomended by the manual.
AnthonyW
Well-Known Member
This article is pretty interesting. They have been using it in Japan for 20 years with no problem. Seems like American car makers will be using it soon.
https://noln.net/2017/06/30/skinny-ow-16-oil/
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https://noln.net/2017/06/30/skinny-ow-16-oil/
Sent from my iPhone using Inside EVs
Thomas Mitchell
Active Member
Do the math. 0W-20 is 4 more than 0W-16. So it’s better. Duh!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This article was interesting, it mentioned that Toyota is using 0W16 in a lot of their hybrids, so it seems like it'd also be a good fit for the Clarity at a glance. I was curious what the JDM manual instructed for the Clarity's oil and they suggested 0W20, just like the USDM version.
Although 0W20 and 0W16 are supposed to be the same when cold, I'm thinking 0w16 is runnier than the 0W20. So if you do frequent and short engine on/off, which is typical of hybrids, 0w16 might actually be better for the engine. Who knows, Honda may have just stuck with 0w20 to satisfy bean counters and not due to technical reasons.
If you tried pouring 0w20 and 0w40 on another car, you'll feel how thick the 0w40 feels at room temperature.
Personally, I'm not going to switch unless the price is better than the 0w20 that I typically buy when they have rebates (Mobil/Pennzoil/Castrol). It's only a once a year thing anyway. I'm curious if there's an actual study that's been carried out for an engine speccing 0w20 that switched to 0w16.
If you tried pouring 0w20 and 0w40 on another car, you'll feel how thick the 0w40 feels at room temperature.
Personally, I'm not going to switch unless the price is better than the 0w20 that I typically buy when they have rebates (Mobil/Pennzoil/Castrol). It's only a once a year thing anyway. I'm curious if there's an actual study that's been carried out for an engine speccing 0w20 that switched to 0w16.
Mowcowbell
Well-Known Member
Dangit, now I have to throw out a brand new 5 qt jug of Mobil 1 0w-20! 
I have everything together to change my oil for the first time. My MM didn't go off until about 11 months after purchase. Had the Michelins rotated at Discount Tire last week (6500 miles).
I have everything together to change my oil for the first time. My MM didn't go off until about 11 months after purchase. Had the Michelins rotated at Discount Tire last week (6500 miles).
Cash Traylor
Well-Known Member
Hat in the oil... The only thing I may do is add some Duralube at the next change. I've had good experience with that product over the past 20 years or so getting mileage out of engines that historically did not perform so well for others, even when mistreated (dollar value unknown). Although the test case is "unique" here, often the comment section is full of user data. Several of the positive reviews I can personally attest to. More important with our very infrequent oil changes is the use of a very good oil filter brand that has good seals so they do not leak over the average one year service cycle.
When I bought the Clarity I drove it primarily in HV Charge mode, often very conservatively for the first 1000 miles (unlike my usual lead foot) to attempt to break in the ICE as best as possible (not going to debate the need for break-in of a generator that is entirely computer controlled here, it is a habit from being a pilot). Now that I have about 100 hours on the ICE I am going to treat it like all my other hydrocarbon burning friends and put SR3 in it. Yes, I am fully aware of the FTC suite and all the controversy. Just doing what has worked for me. Even my Honda dealership sells Z-max as a "add on" for their OEM oil changes. As long as you use a minimum spec oil per the manufacturer your warranty is secure. Hat out of oil, now placed carefully in oil recycling tray to drip dry...
Cheers,
Cash
When I bought the Clarity I drove it primarily in HV Charge mode, often very conservatively for the first 1000 miles (unlike my usual lead foot) to attempt to break in the ICE as best as possible (not going to debate the need for break-in of a generator that is entirely computer controlled here, it is a habit from being a pilot). Now that I have about 100 hours on the ICE I am going to treat it like all my other hydrocarbon burning friends and put SR3 in it. Yes, I am fully aware of the FTC suite and all the controversy. Just doing what has worked for me. Even my Honda dealership sells Z-max as a "add on" for their OEM oil changes. As long as you use a minimum spec oil per the manufacturer your warranty is secure. Hat out of oil, now placed carefully in oil recycling tray to drip dry...
Cheers,
Cash
My $.02 on oil/fuel additives and supplements is that they are an unnecessary expense, particularly on a spankin’ new Honda engine.
As far as warming up and breaking in an engine, my Honda-powered-gasoline-fed-walk-behind lawnmower has 2 speeds. ON and OFF. Warm up and cool down are not options. Pull cord, mow lawn.
Still performs perfectly after 10 years.
As far as warming up and breaking in an engine, my Honda-powered-gasoline-fed-walk-behind lawnmower has 2 speeds. ON and OFF. Warm up and cool down are not options. Pull cord, mow lawn.
Still performs perfectly after 10 years.