Repair issues and fixes

Just to note whether it's relevant or not, Priuschat and similar forums were rife with horror stories about
roadside-assistance people hooking up backwards to jump 12V systems and blowing the 120A fusible-link
or even trashing the DC/DC converter. It happens, especially with nontraditional battery hookups.

_H*

 

Yet another reason why, as so many have recommended, I carry a charged lithium jumpstart pack under the driver's seat, and I also added the NOCO plugin cable to the battery so that jump starting wouldn't involve clamps to the terminals. I don't want to ever have to call roadside assistance should the 12V battery failure happen to me, nor do I want for the other driver or for me to have to spend more than a few seconds getting the power back on.

 

Привіт (Hello) friends https://youtube.com/shorts/UV3t9ZXnMMQ?feature=share

 

That's exactly the sort of damage that I would expect running dirty oil. The spider gear journals could be vulnerable as I suspect they don't get a significant oil feed. I'll bet the ball and roller bearings are slightly rough as well but they would need to be free of oil to determine that.

I'm not clear if the magnet has been removed from its pocket in the housing (I think so) and laid it aside, but I'm confident that the OEM magnet has a donut shape as seen here. The black coating inside the housing has also been described in this recent post over in the Niro group. The inside of a normal gearbox should look pristine.

Thanks for posting this, Igor.

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Is there a combination of buttons you can press to put Kona EV into Brake Service mode?

 

What is "brake service mode"?

My first step on the Kona is to jack it up and remove a wheel.

_H*

 

Had my horn fail, waiting for the part to arrive before I take the car in for service. Maybe I honk too much??

 

What part broke? Steering wheel, relay, horn itself?

Fifty years ago I used to work on the Ford horn assembly line in Belleville, MI. I've always wished I'd been able to collect the ones that were rejected due to the bizarre and often humorous sounds they made. Strangely, my wife doesn't share my regret.

 

From what I've read bleeding the brakes and/or replacing the brake fluid is a complicated procedure that needs the system to be powered up.

The mechanic places the car into the brake service function of the maintenance/engineering menu that the average owner cannot access/never sees.

Numerous posts warn you to LOOK, but DON'T TOUCH when in the engineering menu; it's easy to "brick" your car.

 

They said the module had to be replaced. If I get more details I will let you know.

 

Since this is Repairs and Fixes I thought I would show a photo of my solution to the boot light problem. I knew I'd use that switch one day.

 

Thanks for the great work on this. I wish I had followed a bit sooner as I have 23,000k on my 2021 Kona EV. I have ordered a magnetic drain plug and torque wrench, my 50 year old torque wrench is an antique, but it appears that the oil available to me is;
Liqui Moly 20352 Top Tec MTF 5100 SAE 75W Transmission Fluid, 1 Liter.
It looks like the right thing but I would appreciate your comment before I order it.

 

That's fine, in fact it's the closest oil to the original that's available. With just 1 L you can't afford to spill any so you should fill it from above using a length of tubing and a small funnel.
Did you buy the Votex DP007 magnetic plug? That and the Toyota mentioned in an older post are the recommended choices as no other products have been vetted. Note also that the tightening torque for the Votex is quite a bit lower than the stock plug, 22 lb-ft.

 

Yes, got the Votex plug;

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B086RQZYZM?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I will order the oil next, thanks for the torque specs, the torque wrench should be here in a couple of days. I will fill from the top with a funnel and hose. If I had a failure before the warrantee is up, I would switch to the original plug to avoid providing an excuse to not honor the warrantee. I had a discussion with the service manager at the Hyundai dealer and he was not hearing that the oil should be changed to avoid problems. He assured me that black oil and deposits would be perfectly normal and expected.

 

It would be hilarious if it weren't sad. But I suppose service manager school doesn't train them in engineering and tribology, nor that offering advice to customers outside their expertise is irresponsible. The right answer would be "get a used-oil analysis done".

 

Just had the brakes bled in my wife's Kona EV to eliminate some air that got into the master cylinder system (long story, another thread).

Can confirm that any brake bleeding done on this car requires the proprietary computer/software to ensure the system is correctly bled.

 

I wonder if this is to do with the interaction between regenrative braking, manual braking and inbuilt accelerometer sensors? I've noticed if I'm using the left paddle to come to a stop, but it doesn't feel like it is going to stop in time, as soon as I touch the manual brake the deceleration increases markedly.
So I think there may be some inter connected data between the two eg if the manual brake light comes on add more regen?

 

There is not doubt, like the Prius (2008 anyway) braking system, that the master cylinder system is NOT like that of ICE cars.

I’m sure there are plenty of passageways for brake fluid to flow in two directions, almost like the control valve system on an old fashioned three speed automatic transmission.

I checked the owners manual this morning, Hyundai calls for an R&R of the brake fluid in this car every four years…so we got it a year early.

Between the three year service interval for the non conductive blue coolant and the service interval for the brake fluid, I’d say the Hyundai dealership lobby was successful with Hyundai prior to the introduction of the Hyundai EV fleet.

 

Today I changed out the gearbox oil for the second time, at around 24,000 miles [first was at 10k]. It
was actually fairly clean, retaining a hint of the original pink. There was very little on the magnet of
the Votex plug; I failed to get a pic of it as I semi-mistakenly gave it a wipe too soon after it came out.
I couldn't see any metallic sheen this time, so maybe those initial wear metals are mostly gone.

I did it right this time -- both plastic under-covers off, still, from the April salt hosing-out. I jacked up
the right side of the car to drain, and then the left side to refill. This time it handily took the whole
quart of Redline without a mess, landing the level at just under the fill hole.

With these results, I'm probably not going to worry about it again until sometime after 50,000.

_H*

 

It's good to know that the 1 US Qt is sufficient. And more evidence that the black oil problem can start to clear up. I'm leaning towards thinking that the first change is by far the most important and especially owners who have to pay for an oil change need not do any more.