Repair issues and fixes

I had the ev motor replaced.
The ticking noise was still there and replaced also the reduction gear.
I'm curious if there is somebody with motor + reduction gear changed and the ticking noise reappeared

 

Oh, OK, then you should be good.

 

I now have a Solterra and noticed a subtle difference with how regen and acceleration is applied. With the Kona, I always drove in ECO and regen set to level 3. I really enjoyed that instant torque when pressing the throttle and when letting off. Made for a very nimble car. With the Solterra, there is a more smooth transition to full power when hitting the throttle, and when lifting it off to go into full regen. There is a about a one second smooth transition so you don't get the big jerk. While the torque is not as instant, it does make for smoother driving.

I am wondering if Toyota did that to save the drive train components incl the motor mounts.

 

Hey all,

I have a 2022 SEL and have had numerous issues with the 12V battery dying. The second time at the dealer they did see a drain on the battery and ended up replacing the "PCB Block". When that was replaced, they still saw a drain and then replaced the "BMS module", which brought the drain to "within spec (0.010 V)". I question if this was the traction battery BMS or perhaps some other BMS that manages the 12V. I doubt the former as those are usually tightly coupled with the battery packs, which weren't replaced. Sending this info along in case it's helpful to others...

 

2019 Kona 12 volt battery died the other day. My wife left the dash light on by accident. Battery was at 4v when she tried to go to work. I put it on a 6a 12v charger for 15 minutes and it revived enough to start. Then she drove it 22 miles to work, turned the car off and on to make sure it would work.
Then she calls me later and says car isn't starting, totally dead still. Had to jump start it with my old I-Miev.
Battery checks out at 12.7 and has stayed at that for 24 hours so I guess it's ok.
This is the stock battery. Any way to add or check battery fluid? Are there AGM batteries or something to replace? I saw this mentioned before, but can anyone hack a battery reset button from an Ioniq to have the car automatically engage the charging system for the 12v battery if it dies?
Thanks, Brian

 

Ok Thanks! I will try utility mode.
I used to have a 1994 Solectria Force, AKA electric Geo Metro. That had a 12v dc/dc converter instead of a 12v battery.
Why can't this be the case for new EVs? The Miev is doing ok. It is crap in the winter for my 24 mile commute. Sometimes running the heat and driving 65 i'll end up with 1 or 2 kilowatts left.
luckily have a charger at work, otherwise I take the bus.

 

All current EVs have a "DC-DC" to support the 12V system once the car has booted up. In the Kona (and all Hyundai/Kia) it's called an "LDC".

The reason for having a 12V battery is a matter of safety, that is being able to assess parameters such as the isolation resistance of the traction battery before closing the main contactor internal to the battery pack that supplies HV power to the entire car. It's normal that the traction battery is completely isolated from chassis ground so that the most minor ground fault can be detected.

Perhaps eventually EVs will have small DC-DC convertors that are operating 24/7 to keep a supercapacitor charged and that will carry out the same function. In the big picture we are still in the early stages of EVs.

I believe YouTuber JRgo has been resurrecting a Solectria.

 

Kiwi, over the last year or so I've read varying theories from you and others on why the reduction gear oil breaks down so quickly. While driving around the other day a simple, yet potential cause occurred to me that I don't believe I've seen yet, but perhaps it has been brought up. Since the reduction gear assembly and fluid aren't cooled, do you think the premature breakdown could be caused simply by too much heat build-up? Perhaps this has been discussed or disproved already, but it's plausible and certainly testable.

 

Yeah, not even the slightest chance. A simple 2-stage gearbox is going to be very efficient, perhaps 96% roughly. I've measured the temperature of the housing after driving 40km and found it to be about 20 to 25°C over ambient, not even close to the 100°C over ambient it would take for me to be concerned, such as a conventional automatic would have. Another owner confirmed this approximate level of warming a few months back on Reddit.

To give that opinion the 'sniff' test, if you consider the average driving power to the wheels to be about 12kW, you could say losses are (1-0.96) x 12,000 = 480 watts. Think of five 100 watt light bulbs inside an aluminium enclosure of that size with ambient temp air flowing past and you get the picture, it will get warm to the touch but you won't burn your fingers.

Now, there's another scale of view to consider and that's the microscopic oil temperature as it passes through meshing gear teeth. It will be a lot higher because "working" the oil by squishing it under extreme pressure does heat it up considerably. But it gets cooled again quickly when returned to mix with the bulk oil.

Gearbox oil temperature is based on average temperature so that situation is already taken into account. Generally oil needs to reach 130°C (265°F) in bulk terms before there's any concern. It also pays to recognise that that simple gearboxes are extremely common in industry and are very reliable. There simply isn't an issue with natural convective cooling off the housing without any additional support. There are no (ICE car) manual gearboxes that require an oil cooler.

EE, the E-GMP design is focussed around cooling the motor with oil, a bulk supply conveniently located nearby. The GRU benefits from this but adds little to the total heat content. It also removes the need to seal the gearbox from the motor, reducing lip seal friction. Toyota was exploiting these ideas two decades ago with the gen-4 Prius.

 

Toyota was exploiting these ideas two decades ago with the gen-4 Prius.[/QUOTE]
KiwiMe, was this test version of Gen 4. My 2010 prius was the first gen 3.

 

Whatever version was out around 2004. I read a technical evaluation paper from Oak Ridge National Laboratory at the time on all the changes they made and their efforts at reducing friction such as by eliminating seals were quite impressive.

 

Gen 1..

 

Yes it's sad Toyota leadership didn't understand the natural progression from hybrid to full electric. The technology at the time was world leading.

 

I just got this notification on my Monthly Health Report. My Blue link diagnostics say Systems Normal with no codes. Has anyone ever dealt with an Electronic Stability Control issue? Any idea as to potential causes? Since there's a disagreement between the report and the diagnostics I wonder if that means there's an intermittent fault.

 

I did all those things and there was never any warning light on the dash. So, ya, I'm just thinking that the monthly report might have captured an ESC activation but it's just history and not necessarily indicative of an ongoing issue. That's my hope anyway. I will ask the dealer to scan for and clear any codes when I do my tire swap next month.

 

I had a new glitch today. I started my car and everything was normal. I put the car in reverse intent on backing out of a parking spot but immediately there was a warning chime and my dash displayed "shift to park". I had no idea why. There were no warning lights, no indications of anything being wrong. It happened 3 times before I pulled back into the space and turned the car off. Upon turning it back on everything was fine. I had literally never seen that warning/instruction before. I didn't even know it existed. Anyone have ideas about what might have triggered it?

 

It might be worth checking the volt drop on the 12v battery at start up, I know my motorbike and Jeep used to throw codes when they were doing the start up checks and the battery was on its way out.