Here's a screenshot of my Blue link notifications. Is this constant charging typical behavior? I can't really see any pattern or reason for it happening.
We have a new first time used-oil analysis to add to the collection, values circled for clarity. Those of course contribute to the trendlines, shifting the Fe line slightly upwards and the Al line slightly downwards.
Seeing this post reminded me I hadn't shared my oil test results ... life gets in the way A quick summary that I have a 2022 Kona Highlander Extended Range. I changed the gear oil at 142km and installed 2 magnetic Votex plugs. The original oil had a lot of large iron particles and oil was dark, opaque and smelly. I used Penrite Pro Gear 70W-75 oil for the change The 2nd oil change was done at 6,630km and oil was again dark and opaque. No sign of large iron particles. See my prior post. Attached is the oil analysis of both the original Hyundai oil and the Penrite Pro Gear 70W-75. I'll let smarter minds than mine comment though I was a bit disappointed with the results.
Thanks for posting the UOA document. Here's where you've benefited with that first oil change at 142 km. Almost 4,000 particles were found in a single millilitre! This is why I stress that an early change is important. If left in those particles would otherwise have been crushed by the precision ball and roller bearings and then shown up as higher PPM numbers. Bearings raceways suffer damage from this activity and you've avoided much of that. Here's the updated graph with your results highlighted. We have good first-change coverage now from your 142 all the way up to 70,000 km. The three sets of second change data (with Votex) are coincidentally all clustered around 6,500 km. Because the forum's image resolution is poor, I've placed a copy in my Goggle Drive public folder.
Dead 12v Battery after leaving bonnet open overnight to deter rats. KiwiMe rolls eyes. But when the battery was jumpered by the roadside assist the check brake system warning sign and beeper came on. Car would go into gear but brakes felt uncertain. All had been well until that point. Not sure the bonnet open should have flattened the battery. Multi meter says 4.16 volts. Tried disconnecting the battery, hoping the error would clear, and then connecting only to the jumper battery but same warning appeared. Rural living means nothing can be done till Monday.
Having the bonnet open triggers a dash warning like those for the doors and boot, so there is a current drain there. If your 12v was marginal anyway the additional trickle may have pushed it over the edge..
True, but the car is less than a year old. Question also about what killed the brakes. Hopefully the mystery will be solved tomorrow.
Having the bonnet detected as open may have also prevented the 4-hourly 12V charge from proceeding unfortunately. Discharging the 12V battery that far is likely to weaken it. If the bonnet needs to be left open I think clicking the latch closed with a screwdriver will fool the car into thinking it's closed. Otherwise I've read peppermint oil spayed around may help deter rats, never tried it myself but my Kona is parked outside year round.
I'm pretty sure the battery is dead. The brake is the issue for me. Will they treat it as a warranty job? I will definitely disconnect that sensor when the car comes back from the dealer electriceddy. I don't know if peppermint oil will deter the rats but it would definitely deter me. Thanks KiwiMe
There are also electronic devices that may or may not work to repel vermin. Just don't fall for the old Irish Spring soap repellent fairy tale.
Have my car back from the dealer. It seems that a 150 amp fusible link was blown and they claim this only occurs with reverse polarity when jumpered. I don't understand how this could occur as the device the roadside assistant used is protected I believe. They agreed with me that the problem was probably caused by a Hyundai agent and fixed it under warranty. Unfortunately, while driving on a four hour trip the mirrors suddenly folded themselves in and could not be convinced to unfold. We were able to manually push them out again. It seems a controller module may have been effected. Back to the dealer we go. I used Hyundai Roadside assist and have to say they are useless. Car was out of action for four days and after four calls I never heard from them regarding the emergency hire vehicle they promised each time I rang.
Do you think that roadside assistance may have actually momentarily connected up the jumper leads backwards? I gather that's what the dealer meant by "a Hyundai agent"? If that's the case it's very fortunate that you'll have coverage. I would imagine that the fuse would have a delayed effect if that was the primary means of protection. Despite the fact that jumper packs and jumper leads these days do have means of protection I think reverse polarity is an underappreciated risk to owners, especially when working in the dark or with less-than expert application of jumper power.
Logically, the only person who touched the vehicle with access to a jumper device was the roadside assist person. I was the one who suggested the Hyundai Agent scenario because the dealer was starting to hint that the warranty might not apply because the problem wasn't a typical warranty problem as it had been caused by error. I pointed out that the assistance request was made through Hyundai's Roadside Assist. I agree I'm very fortunate they acknowledged my premise. I wasn't aware that those jumper packs could still possibly work in reverse.
Bouquets to the dealer. They have been pretty good. No questions when I asked to replace the drain plug during service and didn't blink at my makeshift froot or driving lights. Better experience than some other owners who have posted.