Newbie here, wife getting her 2021 Kona (preferred) six months earlier than expected.

Took delivery at 1630 today.

Some nit noid stuff (cross threaded screw, so rear license plate rattles...and PPF on rear bumper will have to be redone because of greasy fingerprints under the film)...

But, my wife is happy and she loves driving it, so mission accomplished.

We got it with only 50% SOC, so the car is getting juiced up as we speak:

Pulling an indicated 7.4 kW (raw data):



Eyedro system:





The TuxMats in place:





Cheers.

 

I hope so too

 

Two questions:

Auto-Hold (page 5-36 of the manual): does one have to re-select "Auto-Hold" each time one starts a drive cycle, or does one select "on" once and it stays on until further notice? The manual doesn't make this clear one way or another...and it seems automatic application of the Emergency Parking Brake upon vehicle shut down requires Auto-Hold to be on (page 5-30).

The rear lift/tail gate will feel closed after a normal shut closure of it, but lift gate open warning system stays activated unless a VERY FIRM slam is applied to closing the lift gate. Is that a quirk of these cars, or is the micro-switch in need of adjustment?

 

Thanks for the rear gate experiences. I'll assume it just has to wear in for a few days or weeks.

Just back from getting the front windows tinted to match the factory tint on the rears:



Rear license plate screw and holder issue fixed.

All PPF is being peeled off and re-done by the dealership sometime within the next two weeks

 

The tail gate seems to already be less effort to properly close, but if need be I will tighten this rubber bumpers.

I got to drive the car today for the window tint job...my only frame of reference is driving my TM3 with one pedal driving to a full stop.

My wife won't use any of these features tied to an aggressive rate of regeneration, so I set it up to regen level 3 and included the option for some sort of "smart" regen. I'll see how she likes that.

 

One data point does not make a trend, but I think the efficiency of this car may exceed my expectations.

Yesterday morning (21 Aug 2020) the car had been topped up to 90% SOC (I'll leave the "is it safe to regularly top up to 100% and let the car sit" discussion for the proper thread).

We drove 101 kms.

We topped back up to 90% last evening.

My inline meters show just over 14 kWh pushed from the grid:


Those 101 km were city and country driving up to 90 kph with temperatures around 27C.

AC system was kept "on" during several quick shopping stops.

Also, the car was "on" while the windows were being tinted.

142 Wh/km "from the grid" with all the running around yesterday.

Very impressive efficiency IMO.

 

Well, this is a pleasant surprise.

More new car nause:

My VESS switch setup:



My modifications that I do to the drivers foot-well TuxMat:





And the NOCO GB40 showed up yesterday.

Still pending:

• the PPF to be redone, properly this time, by the dealership,
• Opti-Coat Pro Plus (ceramic paint protection), and
• winter tires/wheels.

 

Exploring what exterior rear bulbs this car has (for future conversion to LED) required me to put it up on the hoist...and do a little exploring.

I plan to rust proof it later this fall and figured I may as well get comfortable with how the under chassis aerodynamic trim pieces all go together.

These parts, and the way they are fastened, are better IMO than on my TM3.

On the Kona, there is one large "robust/solid" plastic piece under the rear suspension/axle area, kept in place with these:



There are also two built in/attached black plastic spin nuts that allow one to quickly re-attach the trim part without any physical gymnastics (same with the front axle):



Only real surprise for me, a magnet stuck to the top portion of the high voltage battery pack as shown:



Under the front, there are two separate large plastic parts.

The very front one is removed first and put back into place last.

The second unit, where it attaches to the high voltage battery pack, had witness marks on the attachment point threads, so I did not completely remove it.



The second unit:




More to follow...

 

...and a few more random observations regarding the under chassis areas.

Nice to see more aluminum parts being used in the front suspension area as shown (however, the rear suspension parts all attracted a magnet):



Interesting to not see any witness marks on what I take are the inspection (fill) and drain plugs for the trans-axle oil:



The front edge of the high voltage battery pack:



Port side output shaft (steering input shaft just below and to the right of the output shaft):



Like the TM3, miles of coolant hoses and coolant connection points:



Without a formal comparison, this radiator/chiller appears to have a substantially larger surface area than my TM3.

I wonder if the use of a heat pump has any bearing on that:



PS: my wife loves driving her car!

Edit: spelling.

 

Cheers, I did snug them up firmly.