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Discussion in 'Clarity' started by HariN, Jun 3, 2018.
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Thanks SandRoad, I completely missed noticing those rear tweeters up close to the hinge side of the door where they are not that obvious. The Clarity Needle in the Haystack Award goes to you, sir.
Anybody know if they’re the same as the front tweeters or different? Also, are the fr/r door woofers the same?
I'm not aware of any active noise cancellation system inside the Clarity. I think the reference to audio interactions with a new sub-woofer in another thread was about the external noise-production system for pedestrian warning. That particular issue made no sense to me anyway, because the noise-producing system is on only at very low vehicle speeds.
There is ANC in the Clarity and it was the cause of the issue, see here:
I've seen it referred to in some posts by folks who might be assuming the Clarity has ANC, but there is no mention of it being in the Clarity in any information directly from Honda. Honda lists ANC in only the Accord, CR-V, Odyssey, Pilot, and Ridgeline, not the Civic or Clarity. I would think if the Clarity had it, it would be listed in the press kits, brochures, window sticker, and engineering information from Honda.
I haven't received my car yet so I can't confirm, but see the brochure from Honda's website:
Search for "Active Noise Control"
Those magnets seems really tiny on the OEM speaker, I wonder if its because they are supposed to be more efficient?
Very interesting! Good work on finding that. It's not in the U.S. sales brochure we received last month. I see that's a Canadian spec brochure. Is there a chance that Canada got ANC and the U.S. didn't?
Why does Canada always get the better deal?
- Better battery heating system
- Better noise canceling system
- Better head of government
I think the sounds from the speakers are a little muddy. If the 6.5 speakers are woofers, would it sound better if I upgrade them to 2 way speakers? Would that make vocals sound better? I can hear vibrations from my driver's front door when playing music with some bass. Definitely need sound proofing material.
Maybe, maybe not. If the factory system is wired with a crossover that limits frequencies to the woofer, you won't gain much by installing 2 way drivers in the door. If there is no crossover (and the tweeter is just protected from the lows by a simple capacitor), then a 2 way might add some high frequencies. However, maybe too much, because that would mean 2 tweeters in the system. The tweeters really handle only the highest frequencies. You'll likely (but YMMV) improve the perceived muddled sound the most by simply installing better woofers in the doors. And, as usual, those will sound even better if matched to an appropriate tweeter. Someone is going to need to delve much further into the sound system to see if there is OEM crossover and where it is. If the factory amp contains crossover electronics, it may be a challenge to get much improvement in sound without a processor. In the end, I'm going to "guess" the factory sound is very simple, with just a capacitor protecting the tweeters and otherwise full frequencies going to all 8 drivers. I have a pair of Infinity Kappa component speakers just sitting around, so when I get time I'll do some experimenting (probably not until this fall, though).
This is good analysis. Honda typically does the simple things... Full range to the woofers and capacitors on the tweeter. Both the current generation Civic and crv are wired this way.
Don't do any speaker upgrade without some basic deadening in the doors, will improve the sounds even more.
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Hi @Lucien Mcleod, I've upgraded all of the existing speakers (kickers in the doors, jl tweets). I have a sub and conditioner for the trunk, but am unclear how to get power through the firewall. If you (or any forum participants) have any pix or instructions how/where to get through the Clarity firewall, that would be a HUGE assist. Best, Kevin
By firewall, do you mean in the front, back or the cars computer system?
Hi, I was hoping that since you have an external subwoofer/amp, that you might know how the power was run to the amp. I need to run power from the front battery through the engine area firewall into the car's cabin. Some cars have "pass through" grommets where you can push a wire through, but I haven't found anything in the Clarity. Thanks! Kevin
I will second that request for anyone who has passed a power cable from the battery to the back through the firewall. Spent quite a bit of time trying to figure it out today and I only found 2 possible grommets and both were unusable due to the location they terminated at. Did you drill? Any photos and notes would be great! Cheers, Cash
I'm still looking for an example of how to run power to the trunk. As I have everything else purchased for the trunk (speaker, amp, wire, etc), I will probably end up going to an installer to have them do the power run since I haven't found an easy way myself. Either way, I'll post pictures once I figure this out. If anyone has solved this already, please post ASAP! Best, Kevin
Anybody know if the head-unit can be replaced? Most off-the-shelf car stereo head units come in two standard configurations: 1-Din and 2-Din units. I wonder if we remove the Clarity factory-installed head-units, there would be a slot for a standard off-the-shelf head-units replacement.
Given the complete integration with the vehicle's other systems and driver's controls, I doubt the size of the audio head unit is the issue! But, here it is.
Correct. iDatalink Maestro RR shows no compatability for any 2017 and 2018 Honda's.