Has anybody ever seen any real serial number during the testing? When the battery test is performed the serial number field is not populated as seen in the picture. In theory, how to prevent an old failed battery from being used as a replacement battery? The only visible thing is the yellow sticker mentioning P/N: 37501-K4050AS and bar code. It is just a piece of paper glued to the battery.
I tried to decipher the bar code at some point, but only got so far . I could see Hyundai rebuilding the packs (after testing at the cell/module level at some point) especially considering the E63 (NCM622) cell format has been replaced with E66A(NCM712) type , the only way I can see (other than a clear definition supplied from Hyundai regarding the remaining unknown characters) is to rip open the pack and see what is inside.
I know they don't have to but I would be pretty upset if they gave me a refurb battery without heads up. I would probably decline given a choice. Sent from my SM-F711W using Inside EVs mobile app
If the warranty is still good then they're at least as confident in the refurb as a new pack. And let's be honest, being a new pack is no a guarantee they won't have issues... that's why there was a recall! I'd be fine with a factory refurb pack provided it was warrantied and the cost reflected any degredation it might have suffered.
I have got no technical means to determine if the battery was a really new one the battery was a refurbished one the old battery just got a new sticker The fact is the "new" battery failed just several months after replacement. We have got several days of really cold temperatures again (between -20 and -30). Yesterday at 90% the calculated range was 291 km. With the heating on it was 205 km. We made a trip of 199 km and we were returning back at the infamous "turtle" mode making the last 10 km kilometers at the throttled speed. First, it was throttled around 90 km/hr, then it went quite rapidly to some 30 km/hr with a final kilometer or two at some 20 km/hr. I have never experienced such a thing before. To me, it seems as if the battery is dying, which might be the case as this "new" battery failed the battery test at two different dealerships.
-30 deg C is not something current EV batteries are able to handle gracefully on low state of charge, therefore turtle mode.
My son just came back from an interior ski trip with his family in his Tesla. It was cold coming home today, down to -17C. He said his range was exactly half of normal, and barely limped in to Merritt to the Supercharger there with just 20kms left. At least his heater didn't quit on him like the last trip. But that was down below -20, so even worse. So it certainly doesn't seem like Teslas fare any better in cold weather.
I remember your last post when the heater quit on him. I also turned down heating to a minimum. But I needed to keep the FRONT defrost running otherwise the front windshield would get frost building up. All the side windows had frost buildup already.