Torque Pro on the Kona - overview and setup for interested owners

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apu said:
It seems your top end buffer is intact, and it will be a good baseline reading to compare to as your battery ages.
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Not sure if degradation will change that number.. What seems to happen on Teslas is that they always seem to show the same range but I have seen where the car ran out of battery when the range still showed over 50 miles. I don't think that there is anybody with sufficient miles to have an idea how degradation will show on a Kona. I'd say that the best way to tell if there is degradation if you run your battery down to 1 percent and then charge to 100% and look how many kwh are delivered to the car. Subtract 10% for charging losses (Level 2) and you'll have your remaining battery capacity.
 
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apu said:
Yeah , I have seen that 67.1 kwh gross battery capacity number thrown around a couple of web sites, not sure if its an official number. I just know when my battery was brand spanking new torque pro reported the BMS reading as 95% when the display indicated 100%. I believe Kiwime indicated his is 96%, so there is probably a little variation. I hope that helps.
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I have Kona EV 2020 ultimate I have problem with Pids P220101 battery charge /discharge show 50% of current i Amps I do not have idea how to change that.
I did reinstalled this Pids 3 times also I reinstalled torque pro. doesn't make any difference . Ba battery current still shows 50% volume from power current calculation .Please help . Thank you
Janusz Grabon
 
220101 covers a lot of things; which exact bytes are you looking at?
Make sure your math (grouping) is right...

_H*
 
janusz Grabon said:
I have Kona EV 2020 ultimate I have problem with Pids P220101 battery charge /discharge show 50% of current i Amps I do not have idea how to change that.
I did reinstalled this Pids 3 times also I reinstalled torque pro. doesn't make any difference . Ba battery current still shows 50% volume from power current calculation .Please help . Thank you
Janusz Grabon
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What are the names of the pids you are using?
 
janusz Grabon said:
batt current,volts,energy draw,fa charging,SOC BMS,SOC Display,St SOH,Ba Batt T ,and 98 cell voltage
thank You
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So you have been dividing Energy Draw by Batt Volts to show a calculated value for Batt Current? Did you make a pid for this? Or how did you do this? Can you give an example of what you think is wrong with the answer..
 
No , I used ABRP to display Battery Voltage ,but in this case Ba Batt Current -230 230 Amp Pits is missing showed later on so I copy to display. Look like -Amps 50% value of actual calculating current i charging stage . I have this Pids on my cell 220101 I can add but is incorrect current reading .
 
janusz Grabon said:
No , I used ABRP to display Battery Voltage ,but in this case Ba Batt Current -230 230 Amp Pits is missing showed later on so I copy to display. Look like -Amps 50% value of actual calculating current i charging stage . I have this Pids on my cell 220101 I can add but is incorrect current reading .
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In my phone screen (Add sensor Green) I have ABRP Battery power,B-Temp. Fast Charging ,State of Charge BMS ,State of charge display ,State of Health. I do not know how to add anything to that screen.
 
None of that "ABRP" stuff makes any sense, if you ask me. You want main
pack current, ask on 7E4 for mode/pid 22 01 01 and do the indicated
((signed)K*256)+L)/10 and be done with it. I leave it to you to translate
into Torque-ese, as parameter format varies across apps. You probably
already have that, and aren't verbalizing what the problem actually is.
As you continue exploring Torque you'll probably figure it out.

What *I* wouldn't mind having is a way to get in touch with Jeju or that
github community, without having to join github or whatever. They should
read this whole thread and the 12V-via-OBD2 one.

_H*
 
hobbit said:
None of that "ABRP" stuff makes any sense, if you ask me. You want main
pack current, ask on 7E4 for mode/pid 22 01 01 and do the indicated
((signed)K*256)+L)/10 and be done with it. I leave it to you to translate
into Torque-ese, as parameter format varies across apps. You probably
already have that, and aren't verbalizing what the problem actually is.
As you continue exploring Torque you'll probably figure it out.

What *I* wouldn't mind having is a way to get in touch with Jeju or that
github community, without having to join github or whatever. They should
read this whole thread and the 12V-via-OBD2 one.

_H*
Click to expand...
thaks
 
hobbit said:
What *I* wouldn't mind having is a way to get in touch with Jeju or that
github community, without having to join github or whatever. They should
read this whole thread and the 12V-via-OBD2 one.

_H*
Click to expand...

Yes! I would like the Temp pids to display in F rather than C.


Sent from my P027 using Tapatalk
 
davidtm said:
Yes! I would like the Temp pids to display in F rather than C.


Sent from my P027 using Tapatalk
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There are no settings you can change to do this - the pid equations must be modified, either in TP"s PID Editor directly, or in a text editor followed by copying the changed pids to your phone, then updating TP.

The Ambient pid equation for C is
(G/2)-40
so becomes
((G/2)-40)×9/5)+32
similarly for Cabin temp. You can substitute appropriate F values for min and max at the end of the pid, also the unit, F instead of C.
 
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Thank you! I feel able to use the editor, so this is very helpful. I wasn't exactly sure how to insert the conversion in the formula.

[emoji16]

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
 
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I've got a weird one that I'd like some help confirming/testing. In watching
main pack current, OBD2 reports what seems unusually high current draw
out of the pack, e.g. positive like you were driving at low power, when coasting
along in *Neutral*. Not a lot, it's on the rough order of an extra stray amp per
10 mph of present speed. So at 50-60 mph on a highway, a brief pop into
Neutral [totally harmless, and you can get back into Drive without the brake
pedal if you're under way] shows 6 - 7 A discharge.

Usually the car pulls maybe 1A or less just powered up and sitting still,
to run the LDC. So it should pull the same if it's rolling, wouldn'tcha think?
Neutral should be the electrical state of "do absolutely nothing to the motor".

So is it an OBD reporting error, or is there some purpose the PCU would
need more battery current when the motor's spinning? A field-weakening
algorithm to suppress overvoltage, perhaps, where it has to actively drive
the windings the "wrong way" but not for regen? What do y'all see during
the same conditions?

_H*
 
Another quick question (this is about my Niro EV) - any info on which battery modules are 1, 2, 3, and 4 for the battery temp gauges? I was kinda assuming that 1 and 2 were under the main cabin floor and 3 and 4 were under the back seat. But, this is based on no info.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
 
davidtm said:
..(this is about my Niro EV) - any info on which battery modules are 1, 2, 3, and 4 for the battery temp gauges?
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The docs associate these four sensors labels, 1,2,3,5 with these packs as shown in the schematic I've marked up (Kona) but note that a number 4 sensor at 7 and 8 is not indicated as being present.

upload_2020-3-6_9-21-28.webp
 
janusz Grabon said:
I deleted all ABRP Pids still having the same problem when I Charge Current shows 1,2 Amp Actually is 12 Amps!! I still don't know what to do???
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If you are seeing this in the Add Sensor Green screen, the "," (comma) is a thousands separator, not a decimal separator. I.e. 1,200 is twelve hundred, not one point two...
 
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