Modifications and Tweaks

EnerG said:
I find there is a bit of additional wind noise but it is minimal. I only noticed this at over 115kph. In my opinion the benefits easily outweigh the disadvantages. One of the main advantages is minimizing the Helmholtz resonator effect.
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That's probably why I have not heard any additional wind noise as I have kept it to 95 km/hr max.
 
SkookumPete said:
Here's what they look like without the optional bits. Very easy to install even for an all-thumbs like me. Hoping for rain so I can test!
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Now that we've had a preview of the autumn storms, I've had a chance to see how the visors work for my primary purpose, which is to allow the windows to be cracked open when the car is parked. The back windows are problematic because the straight back edges are not quite covered. Installing the optional rear bits might help, but there would still be a gap right over that vertical opening in the window. Front windows are better, though there can be some leakage toward the front where the visors give little overhang. In general I don't find it safe to make the crack more than half an inch or so.
 
SkookumPete said:
Now that we've had a preview of the autumn storms, I've had a chance to see how the visors work for my primary purpose, which is to allow the windows to be cracked open when the car is parked. The back windows are problematic because the straight back edges are not quite covered. Installing the optional rear bits might help, but there would still be a gap right over that vertical opening in the window. Front windows are better, though there can be some leakage toward the front where the visors give little overhang. In general I don't find it safe to make the crack more than half an inch or so.
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I made a foam gasket for the rear vertical portion of the back windows that are not covered.
As far as the leak in the front ones ( under the part where the molded form changes above the mirrors) - I noticed when installing there were 2 separate pieces of 3M adhesive resulting in a small gap when installing and should have fixed it then - but I didn't. I use a small piece of poly (4" square) over the gap wedged in the door jam when parked works good.
The windows are always open about an inch and have had no water coming in other than a small couple of drops when driving in a downpour, but thanks for the reminder to apply a little silicone over that small front area to eliminate the small leak.
I will add it isn't nearly as bad as this:
https://insideevs.com/news/342294/opening-tesla-model-3-trunk-in-rain-is-not-advised-video/ :D
 
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Having had gas struts on a previous car, I find going back to a prop annoying - I found this kit on Aliexpress :

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32991102194.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.3c5b4c4dTHJvcA

Works well, and uses existing holes. The only issue is that you need to replace the upper bolts with M8x20's, as the originals don't have enough thread for a good hold, which is needed to stop the mounting plate turning. The plate could have been better designed with additional length to prevent rotation
 
Has anybody added sound deadening to their Kona?
Seems to me the back metal pan where the tire should be is a perfect target. Amazon sells the adhesive pads for a few bucks.
BTW. There is an app called Sound Meter that quantifies cabin volume. No need to guess.
 
Electriceddy suggested that I post a link here, based on some discussion
in another thread. Two days after getting my Kona home from the
dealership, it was all torn apart to undergo some mods I needed to do.
This is what I do with my cars... a few weeks later I realized that
I had piled up so many pictures and notes about the whole process,
from early research and justifying why on earth I wanted to buy a
second car, through several fun adventures through Kona innards and
interesting discoveries along the way. As I do with many projects
I started putting a lot of it into tech-geeky webpages.

. http://techno-fandom.org/~hobbit/cars/ev/

it's an ongoing thing; several sections aren't finished or even written
yet, and I've got more stuff in the pipeline. I'll probably have to
do less to this car than I did with my Prius back in the day, but it's
definitely a fascinating thing to study. EVs certainly have come a
long way in their path to wider public acceptance.

_H*
 
In response to the reports of the 12 V negative battery cap being missing (fallen down in the motor compartment) or laying on the battery itself after service, this mod costs 5 cents (CDN) :D
Materials:
HM5zsdq.jpg

Drill 1/4 inch hole side of cap as shown:
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Install 8 inch tie wrap loosely to battery handle:
fYa6t8Z.jpg

No more cap missing:
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The positive one is on hinges so not required.
 
EnerG said:
Update to my update:
I just got frustrated at this thing and took a second look. It does fit sideways and actually looks okay. I had tried it in a gas Kona and it was a perfect fit. However it was designed for a hot rod Kona called the Hyundai Kona Encino sold in the Chinese market.
Console

Console

  • Media owner EnerG
  • Date added
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It looks like it's sitting up on the rim of the console space. Is there empty space below it?

It might be handier to be up at the top. The console is a bit deep to reach down into, especially while driving.
 
Kitsilano said:
Here's a project for creative, electronically-adept Kona Electric owners: Find a way to make the brake lights go on when pulling & holding the left regen paddle. In slow-moving, stop-and-go traffic, regen deceleration is usually strong enough that slowing & stopping the Kona Electric by stepping on the brake pedal is usually unnecessary. But the CONVENIENCE and FUN coming from perfectly timing the pull & hold of the left paddle comes with a RISK. Is the driver behind you attentive? Will the driver of the car following you know you are decelerating without seeing the brake-light cue?
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Uh, the brake lights most definitely DO come on when pulling and holding the left paddle! In fact, just jumping up from zero or "1" regen to "2" or "3" will also cause the brake lights to illuminate if the car decelerates at greater than 0.25G.

When sitting in traffic, a "full pull" on the left paddle will illuminate the brake lights, but unlike when stomping the brake pedal, the brake lights will go out as the car senses it's stopped "enough".

If you're speeding down the highway and let off the accelerator at "2" or "3" regen the brake lights will come on, which is why I like to drive in heavy freeway traffic with regen "3" because this means a sudden pedal lift and the car goes into very strong "braking" - far faster than any human foot can lift off the accelerator and move over to the brake. Also, I discovered that when driving in heavy traffic, running full regen above about 60mph reduces kWh use and bumps up mileage.
 
RandallScott said:
Uh, the brake lights most definitely DO come on when pulling and holding the left paddle! In fact, just jumping up from zero or "1" regen to "2" or "3" will also cause the brake lights to illuminate if the car decelerates at greater than 0.25G.

When sitting in traffic, a "full pull" on the left paddle will illuminate the brake lights, but unlike when stomping the brake pedal, the brake lights will go out as the car senses it's stopped "enough".

If you're speeding down the highway and let off the accelerator at "2" or "3" regen the brake lights will come on, which is why I like to drive in heavy freeway traffic with regen "3" because this means a sudden pedal lift and the car goes into very strong "braking" - far faster than any human foot can lift off the accelerator and move over to the brake. Also, I discovered that when driving in heavy traffic, running full regen above about 60mph reduces kWh use and bumps up mileage.
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This post was written pre-software update, an issue that affected the earlier models .
 
FINALLY after 1.5 years added the VESS switch (like the European models). No need to pull the dash apart as you can do this thru the fuse panel door.
I would first like to thank mikeselectricstuff and KiwiMe for the schematics and helpful posts to get this accomplished.
So here we go: Begin by removing the connecting plug from the switch panel left side of steering wheel - low (push the interlock tab and pull out plug ) then pull enough cable to work with.
First image shows the proper wire to tap on to, pin 7 of the connector to the switch assembly, green wire - make sure to count from the tab side of the connector.
LGNeqDz.jpg

Next strip a small bit of insulation and solder a 24 AWG stranded about 18 inches long to the green wire, I kept the original green wire maintaining contact with connector (just in case). Not shown is the 200 ohm 1/4 watt resistor which is soldered on that new lead and heat shrink applied, basically new wire lead consists of (9 inches wire, then heat shrink resistor then 9 inches more wire)
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Next use some good quality tape (scotch super 33 works well) and wrap around the soldered connection and continue the wrap up the existing sleeve for strain relief.
6VlZtkT.jpg

This is the momentary contact switch I selected - note it has a shaft about 5/8 inch long which will come in handy later. I crimped the wires with loops on the switch and on the lead that goes to ground connection (the one flagged with tape will be going to ground).
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Next find a good ground to connect the lead off the other side of the switch - I chose a handy screw holding some module close to the area
sCJbqdV.jpg

Last is to mount the switch. The spot I picked is below the steering column on the right side. The material (plastic) is quite thick there so the longer shaft on the switch I picked works perfectly flush. I might advise to remove the insulation first behind the panel as it wraps around the drill bit:oops:No worry I tucked it back up and all is good.
uwJcUbv.jpg

The operation works really well. The VESS comes on every time you start the car and can be silenced with a momentary push of the button. It can be switched on or off as you desire while in gear and driving as well. I liked the idea of the silence but the problem with pulling the plug at the front of the car is there is times when you do need it ie: backing up in a parking lot etc. This way you can leave it on in that situation and shut it off when you go forward if safe to do so.
Enjoy this mod and sorry it took me so long to come up with this.:)
 
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