Audio upgrade for clarity

[CyberDyneSystems]

I have looked your setup over a couple times now as I'm planning the same physical layout. Where is the DSP stashed in the car? It doesn't appear to be in the trunk with the other components. My thoughts were under the dash?

I was planning ~$1000 for the components, plus cable/wire etc. Those entry-level Morel speakers are amazing for the $$, and a compact sub like the ones you linked are more than enough for my intended application.

Sorry i missed this, it's under the two JL amps.

 

[wy2sl0]

Gotta do some cleaning up, but the basic frame of my rack is done. Wiring is done.

For those interested, I included the grommet hole also.

 

[insightman]

Gotta do some cleaning up, but the basic frame of my rack is done. Wiring is done.

For those interested, I included the grommet hole also.

Please try again to insert your photos. I see only broken image icons. I'm very curious to see what your "rack" is. Thanks.

 

[wy2sl0]

Does this work? Weird it was removed.

 

[insightman]

Does this work? Weird it was removed.

Yes, thank you. I didn't know where you had located your gear but with all that equipment, there was no other choice in a car that has room for only a 7-gallon gas tank (thankfully, Honda didn't fill that sub-trunk space with a larger gas tank--7 gallons is enough for me).

 

[Russw9]

Not wanting to touch the head unit or factory amp. My assumption is the 180 amp factory amp split evenly among the four channels that each have a component system of a 6.5 inch driver and tweeter.

Has anyone considered dropping a pair of 6x9s in the parcel shelf behind the back seats? I would simply remove the rear door speakers, buy a component setup and leave the tweeters and crossover in the door and run the wire to the driver in the parcel shelf on each side. I would upgrade the front door speakers as well. This would fill out the range of frequencies quite well given the available power. It would just require a bit of cutting.

 

[rdav]

@BeMurda

This post and reply is going to be old news. However, I thought it appropriate since you were not interested in installing a subwoofer in your trunk. My solution resulted in almost no loss of usable trunk space so I would say go look back in this thread for that. However that is not the reason for this post now. I replaced all my factory drivers with the JL Audio C1's and installed NO AMPLIFIER or digital sound processors. After installing the C1's I tried desperately to be happy with them but the sound still was not that good on the low end, so I added the cheap sub. Now, it was better but everything is relative. I new I likely needed amps and more importantly a sound processor to get rid of the horrible factory audio tuning. However the thought of going back in to the wire harnesses and rerunning everything was something I didn't want to do now that I am concentrating on the LKAS/ACC hacking and improvements (all CAN and digital).

I posted in this thread above about my final solution that I am extremely happy with. That was honda hack and using a software approach to flatten the factory DSP so that the sound coming out was "unmodified" digitally. I then added quite possibly the best (and free) sound processor Viper4Android. The result was truly magical, for the price! Why am I telling YOU this. In my work on chasing down the ANC processes and testing, I created a switch for my sub to disable it. Today I was just sitting working in my car and realized the stereo (was playing AWALNATION Sail) sounded pretty good, then realized the subwoofer was off. Now I am not going to sit here and say it doesn't sound WAY BETTER with the sub on, which also sounded WAY BETTER once I did the DSP hack. However I will say that, IF I had done the DSP hack before installing the sub, I honestly think I would have stopped there, as it was "good enough." Now I do not know, and it would be subjective to each person anyway, if the factory speakers would sound good with the mentioned DSP hack. However, considering the relative ease of replacing the factory speakers with a Crutchfield kit (of course the speakers would need to be designed for factory amplification and efficient, like the C1's are) I have to say that this is a VERY inexpensive solution. Anyway, I thought this specifically spoke to your question presented and wanted to give you my recent revelation.

One very nice thing about this is that you can hack you system for cheap, try this software solution with the factory speakers and if you don't like it, upgrade the speakers after, or even "unroot" your headunit and go back to factory all within the confines of an hour sitting in your car with no tools. Since you mentioned that you are an audiophile, I would be extremely interested in your feedback if you do the DSP hack with the factory drivers!!!! I know of no one who has tested it and again I admit it would be subjective as sound quality is very individual. As to my orginal post about bass from the doors, I found a really cheap and easy to install dampening solution that although no where near as good as Dynamat was "good enough" for my purposes eliminating rattle and the "hollow" sound of the doors. I used closed cell memory foam hot glue tacked to the door interior side assembly (on the back of the plastic removable part, not the metal door itself).

https://amzn.to/33RwbID

Cheers,

Cash

Sorry to revive an old post however I plan on looking into installing Honda hack sometime soon to test out and see how it sounds on my stock speakers. I think I may have to copy your JL audio setup as its quite cheap and based on my Sennheiser's interpretation of the "virtual listening" on crutchfileds website I do prefer the way they sound over the other options at that pricepoint. I might even just stick with the stock speakers if they can handle the flat audio as they aren't terrible, granted I say this while still definitely being under the "New and shiny" phase of car ownership after picking up my clarity just last week.

 

[TC1782]

Sorry to revive an old post however I plan on looking into installing Honda hack sometime soon to test out and see how it sounds on my stock speakers. I think I may have to copy your JL audio setup as its quite cheap and based on my Sennheiser's interpretation of the "virtual listening" on crutchfileds website I do prefer the way they sound over the other options at that pricepoint. I might even just stick with the stock speakers if they can handle the flat audio as they aren't terrible, granted I say this while still definitely being under the "New and shiny" phase of car ownership after picking up my clarity just last week.

I would save the money. You might need it when/if your clarity starts having faults.