Car will not charge - Contact dealer

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Tommm

Tommm

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Screenshot_20220813-013746_MINI.webp
I picked up the car 7/14. First charge with my Juice Box and I blew the circuit at the main fuse box. The Juice Box is on a 50A in the basement for the extension. The circuit that blew is for the whole box that controls the extension.

I put the car on 16A and the last few charges were fine. Last night with 27% remaining I plugged in. About an hour and a half later the circuit blew. I did this a few times, then thinking it was the Juice Box i opened the BMW charger. I put the car on 32A since it was now after midnight, and it blew the circuit. Switched the car to 16A and it blew the circuit and gave me the message to contact the dealer.

At about 1:30 AM with 67% charge I made a service appt for next week. Good thing I have another car because the website offered me a Lyft home. I will dump it at the dealer tomorrow and keep the forum posted.

I think it is something as simple as a molecule blocking the flow of the dynaflow.
 
polyphonic said:
It sounds like you have bad wiring. Try charging at a public L2 station.
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I thought that, but why didnt i have a problem with the same Juice Box on the red SE? Why is it blowing at the main box, not the box for the extension, or the circuit that only the box is on? Initially I thought it was because it was roasting out, and both AC units were running. Last night nothing was on and it blew.
 
Tommm said:
I thought that, but why didnt i have a problem with the same Juice Box on the red SE? Why is it blowing at the main box, not the box for the extension, or the circuit that only the box is on? Initially I thought it was because it was roasting out, and both AC units were running. Last night nothing was on and it blew.
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Oh, this is a new car? It's possible that the wiring failed over time if something wasn't up to spec. I would want to rule out the car being the problem by attempting to charge it at a public station. That way you could save some time (and hire a new electrician, if need be)

Curious to hear what you find.
 
Tommm said:
Yes. I added the circuit and outlet last August or September
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Is the 14-50 NEMA outlet a $50 Bryant or $12 kitchen range Leviton? It will say Bryant on the metal (if you remove the outlet plate) and Leviton on the black plastic. The Hubbell one is $192 so I doubt you have that one.

The KLE onboard charger the MINI is probably fried as well.
 
Tommm said:
View attachment 17866
I picked up the car 7/14. First charge with my Juice Box and I blew the circuit at the main fuse box. The Juice Box is on a 50A in the basement for the extension. The circuit that blew is for the whole box that controls the extension.

I put the car on 16A and the last few charges were fine. Last night with 27% remaining I plugged in. About an hour and a half later the circuit blew. I did this a few times, then thinking it was the Juice Box i opened the BMW charger. I put the car on 32A since it was now after midnight, and it blew the circuit. Switched the car to 16A and it blew the circuit and gave me the message to contact the dealer.

At about 1:30 AM with 67% charge I made a service appt for next week. Good thing I have another car because the website offered me a Lyft home. I will dump it at the dealer tomorrow and keep the forum posted.

I think it is something as simple as a molecule blocking the flow of the dynaflow.
Click to expand...
Your 50 amp breaker you need 6 gauge copper wiring for 40 amp configuration maybe you wire with 8 awg wire that’s why you blowing breaker.
 
Tommm said:
I thought that, but why didnt i have a problem with the same Juice Box on the red SE? Why is it blowing at the main box, not the box for the extension, or the circuit that only the box is on? Initially I thought it was because it was roasting out, and both AC units were running. Last night nothing was on and it blew.
Click to expand...

Assuming you don't have an AFCI or GFCI breaker, tripping a circuit breaker basically means either too much current is being drawn from the circuit or the breaker is going bad.

  • Bad breakers happen and can manifest in false trips. This would happen more at higher currents closer to the breakers rating and as the breaker gets worse, would get more sensitive. This seems plausible to me especially since it's the main breaker and not the one at the extension box.
  • Bad wiring is a possibility but is less likely. Either it would need to be an intermittent short somewhere before the extension box (to not trip the breaker immediately all the time) or a bad connection directly at the problem breaker causing heat in the breaker and tripping the over-current thermal switch
  • Actually drawing too much current is also a possibility but seems unlikely since reducing the charging current did not solve the issue.
An issue with the SE itself should trip the extension box first. I don't see how it could overload the main breaker but not the extension box unless the main breaker is an AFCI/GFCI

Charging at another L2 would eliminate the SE and from there it's probably best to call an electrician
 
Carsten Haase said:
Assuming you don't have an AFCI or GFCI breaker, tripping a circuit breaker basically means either too much current is being drawn from the circuit or the breaker is going bad.

  • Bad breakers happen and can manifest in false trips. This would happen more at higher currents closer to the breakers rating and as the breaker gets worse, would get more sensitive. This seems plausible to me especially since it's the main breaker and not the one at the extension box.
  • Bad wiring is a possibility but is less likely. Either it would need to be an intermittent short somewhere before the extension box (to not trip the breaker immediately all the time) or a bad connection directly at the problem breaker causing heat in the breaker and tripping the over-current thermal switch
  • Actually drawing too much current is also a possibility but seems unlikely since reducing the charging current did not solve the issue.
An issue with the SE itself should trip the extension box first. I don't see how it could overload the main breaker but not the extension box unless the main breaker is an AFCI/GFCI

Charging at another L2 would eliminate the SE and from there it's probably best to call an electrician
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The best first step like everyone suggest plug SE to public L2 to eliminate car issue.Make you feel better my SE since day first as I plug to my L2 in garage have a big problem was always going to low charging not to maximum I check with dealer and with 400 miles they said is nothing wrong with SE but I didn’t give up bc my charger was working correctly for 6 years with I 3 what a dealer was suggesting my L2 was no good .I emailed Headquarters in Germany UK and New Jersey about my problem with charging and miraculously a two weeks later a car start charging correctly on the same charger and no issue for 5 months and 2000 miles and I change nothing I check voltage on both legs was always correct my braker in a panel never trip . Im suggested your wire there is 6 AWG
 
Rexsio said:
The best first step like everyone suggest plug SE to public L2 to eliminate car issue.Make you feel better my SE since day first as I plug to my L2 in garage have a big problem was always going to low charging not to maximum I check with dealer and with 400 miles they said is nothing wrong with SE but I didn’t give up bc my charger was working correctly for 6 years with I 3 what a dealer was suggesting my L2 was no good .I emailed Headquarters in Germany UK and New Jersey about my problem with charging and miraculously a two weeks later a car start charging correctly on the same charger and no issue for 5 months and 2000 miles and I change nothing I check voltage on both legs was always correct my braker in a panel never trip . Im suggested your wire there is 6 AWG
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Your charger should be on separate 50 amps braker and any thing else like AC should not be run on the same line as I’m not electrician but that is a principal of basics !!!
 
Rexsio said:
Your charger should be on separate 50 amps braker and any thing else like AC should not be run on the same line as I’m not electrician but that is a principal of basics !!!
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And any extensions double plug in conectors on 220 volts is no no approach,from NEMA 14- 50 should be one line from plug to a car one line only or you burn you house soon.
 
Rexsio said:
And any extensions double plug in conectors on 220 volts is no no approach,from NEMA 14- 50 should be one line from plug to a car one line only or you burn you house soon.
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A standard for safety is 25 ‘ by a code or you have hard wire unit and accordingly a correct wire size from 8/6/3 AWG
 
Wading in where my knowledge is limited, but...

At work we have 220 V biomedical equipment that comes supplied with UL-listed, 14 g extension cord. The plug matches that of the MINI charger, so when retiring one of the machines I set aside the extension cord "just in case". Hard to believe that FDA-approved, hospital-located, patient-testing devices wouldn't be up to code. What am I missing?

ETA: Without checking, I don't know how much current the device pulls.
 
CuriousGeorge said:
Wading in where my knowledge is limited, but...

At work we have 220 V biomedical equipment that comes supplied with UL-listed, 14 g extension cord. The plug matches that of the MINI charger, so when retiring one of the machines I set aside the extension cord "just in case". Hard to believe that FDA-approved, hospital-located, patient-testing devices wouldn't be up to code. What am I missing?

ETA: Without checking, I don't know how much current the device pulls.
Click to expand...
9B1C69AB-9816-49F5-A4B3-B73053401F47.webp
 
CuriousGeorge said:
Wading in where my knowledge is limited, but...

At work we have 220 V biomedical equipment that comes supplied with UL-listed, 14 g extension cord. The plug matches that of the MINI charger, so when retiring one of the machines I set aside the extension cord "just in case". Hard to believe that FDA-approved, hospital-located, patient-testing devices wouldn't be up to code. What am I missing?

ETA: Without checking, I don't know how much current the device pulls.
Click to expand...
Your charger L1 provide by SE is 14 gauge at can pull of maximum 10 amps from 120 volts outlet but if you on 220 volts with 50 amps breaker you need 6 AWG wire that’s why you blowing your circle breakers which just should have dedicated line for your charging demands of your SE.Nothing else should be on that circuit just your EV . You must have 8AWG wire there which over heat a system.Advise to you get a good electrician he solve a problem sometimes DIY bad idea if we don’t know what we doing.I wire mine charger with 40 amps breaker bc car can pull only 32 amps usually only 30 amps the most and my run from panel to NEMA 14-50 plug is only 15’ and my Charger have 25’ cord and I never blow my breaker in 6 1/2 years
 
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