Strut rust

Discussion in 'Hyundai Kona Electric' started by electriceddy, Mar 19, 2019.

  1. electriceddy

    electriceddy Well-Known Member

    So the Leafs I had both had a rust issue on the front strut locations due to improper drainage from the wipers so I decided to take the plastic cowling off the drivers side of the Kona.
    There is a plug that fits over the mounting hole so no problem;
    But when I removed the plug there was some surface rust around the securing bolt and inside cap(sorry no pictures)
    Some Q tips and rubbing alcohol cured that (I will be putting some grease on it later)
    GOOD idea to check it now before issues.
    I will also be greasing the 12 V battery terminals as they are dry and prone to moisture and corrosion(see under the hinged covers) also a later Nissan fix.
    Just a heads up
     
  2. Esprit1st

    Esprit1st Well-Known Member

    Would be nice to have some pictures. To be honest I'm not sure what exactly I'd look for and where exactly you're talking about but rusty is never a good thing, so I'd like to make sure it's all good.

    Thanks for the input, though.

    Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
     
    Brennan Raposo and JellyCat like this.
  3. electriceddy

    electriceddy Well-Known Member

    OK so I got my camera working (sort of)
    Picture of the strut cover cowling ( I am only going to show drivers side)
    [​IMG]
    Remove with appropriate tool of choice
    [​IMG]
    Remove the plug
    [​IMG]
    This is the bolt, now cleaned, didn't get an after of the grease but just use conventional grease to stop rust
    [​IMG]
    I talked with the tech at Hyundai and was advised this is a good idea, BTW lots more untreated bolts under the car, but this one could save a lot of work in the long run.
     
  4. electriceddy

    electriceddy Well-Known Member

    And also pictures of the 12V battery terminals, used dielectric grease for this one also supported by Hyundai tecks
    Before
    [​IMG]
    And after
    [​IMG]
    BTW I let the car sit in run for 2 hours with the screen off and hud down and the resting voltage now sits at 12.86 V with the car supplying 13.2 volts intermittently down from the original 14.4 V with battery at 12.26V (12.6 V seems like a good resting voltage.)
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2019
    BC-Doc, XtsKonaTrooper and Vanryan like this.
  5. Kitsilano

    Kitsilano Active Member Subscriber

    Please explain why these figures are important and what is happening. Some of us need your help in learning the mysteries of electricity.
     
  6. electriceddy

    electriceddy Well-Known Member

    Lower SOC of the accessory battery can contribute to problems with electronic driven components as well as premature replacement of the battery itself . Just checking how the charging algorithm works with Kona. My Leafs had problems and many reports Tesla as well. My intention is to hook up an inverter probably 2kW in the future ( for power outages) so I need to know voltage levels.
     
    Vanryan likes this.
  7. Vanryan

    Vanryan Member


    Thanks for the pictures! Dumb question, but did you have to disconnect the battery before applying? Or did you just apply while the battery was connected?

    Thanks again!
     
  8. electriceddy

    electriceddy Well-Known Member

    I actually had the car in run mode when I applied, no reason to disconnect the terminals
     
    Kitsilano likes this.
  9. electriceddy

    electriceddy Well-Known Member

    Additional reasons to grease the terminals:
    https://www.speakev.com/threads/corrosion-on-12v-battery-terminal.138782/
     
    Vanryan and XtsKonaTrooper like this.
  10. robxb

    robxb Member

    My dad taught me this long ago.. 12 volts is only 3 more than if you were touching the two tips of a 9 volt battery...it's just the size of the battery that scares people ;)
     
    Lex23 likes this.
  11. apu

    apu Active Member

    As it should, there is some serious amperage behind the mere 12 volts
     
    electriceddy likes this.
  12. robxb

    robxb Member

    "The math can get a little complicated, but the main reason that you can safely touch the positive and negative terminals of a typical car battery, and walk away unscathed, has to do with the voltage of the battery. While car batteries technically have the amperage to kill you, the voltage is a different story."

    I recommend the article below, it's a good read. I have asked a few mechanics over the years and they all sort of laughed with a shrug and said there's nothing to worry about when touching them.

    https://www.lifewire.com/electrocuted-by-a-12-volt-car-battery-534763
     
  13. Jamas

    Jamas Member

    I'd be more concerned with the current. It takes only 100mA to stop your heart.
     
  14. Esprit1st

    Esprit1st Well-Known Member

    There is actually YouTuber (Physics girl), she zapped herself with like 20.000V but of course no current.

    Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
     
  15. electriceddy

    electriceddy Well-Known Member

    I got hit with 27kV removing an old picture tube some years ago @ 150ma.( forgot to discharge) Thru me on the floor for a bit, then proceeded to install the new one ( with a ground strap attached). At this time I was of course young and bullet proof. :D
    For those of you unfamiliar with CRTs, we used to use these in TVs instead of flat panel displays:
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathode-ray_tube
     
    Esprit1st likes this.
  16. Lex23

    Lex23 Member

    Google “toques toques in Mexico “, first time I did that the guy had a car battery attached to the box..


    Sent from my iPhone using Inside EVs
     
  17. robxb

    robxb Member

    I'm not advocating going out of your way to try to put yourselves in situations where you could electrocute yourselves, I'm just saying that in normal conditions, if you touch both terminals, nothing will happen. If you hook up jumper cables and press them together, of course it will create sparks, but that's because the cables are designed to conduct the electricity, and you're directly touching the positive and negative together, without any resistance (or barely any). If you simply have a hand on both terminals, you will not get a shock because skin is resistive by comparison. This chill surfer bro might not instill a lot of confidence, but the point is the same (I'd much prefer to see it from an electrical engineer's video I have in mind, but I just can't be bothered to find the video at the moment).

    Anyway, we can agree to disagree.. You can keep avoiding touching the battery at all costs, I'm not trying to convince you to go and do it "just to see". Not like I'm trying to trick you to touch them (but if you do, record it...I mean...to prove nothing will happen :p). Joking aside, this is all way off topic now.. So back to the regular scheduled programming of strut rust?
     

Share This Page