Which EVSE to buy?

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Das KONA

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New 2021 owner on Vancouver Island (Canada). Want a Level 2 for outside at home (15 foot wire would be enough), but I see huge price differences and don't know if all the hundreds of options I see are available here.

Don't need/want wifi, smart charger or any of the fancy stuff. My reading in this forum tells me I want a 40 amp EVSE, with a 50 amp (at least) breaker, on a 240 volt outlet. Not concerned about future-proofing since we'll likely be too old to drive when this car dies. I'm incredibly ignorant about electrical stuff, so will have an electrician do the install and make sure all specs are met.

My question is just about which EVSE to get. One electrician suggested Leviton, but they look fairly pricey compared to others. I'm fine with paying if that's the right choice, but I just can't find any online info that tells me what to do. The rebate site at BC Hydro lists about 100 choices, which helps to bewilder me.

I see there's at least a couple Vancouver Island guys in this forum who seem to know electrical stuff, so I'm hoping I might get some local suggestions, but any advice welcomed.

Thanks in advance.
 
Well your Kona's onboard AC charger can't take advantage of more than 32 amp 240V EVSE, so its just added expense with a 40 amp EVSE. Unless you want the portability you might be better served with a directly wired or hardwired EVSE, you will save at least a $100 on a suitable 14-50 outlet for a non hardwired unit. Generally speaking the most inexpensive EVSEs are Chinese units with questionable safety certifications. The more expensive units likely have Chinese components assembled in North America with extra do dads like wifi, usage monitoring and likely with appropriate certifications. Pick your poison or level of risk aversion. I bought a "cheapie" unit off amazon a couple years ago, seems to be working fine.
 
marshall said:
InsideEVs put out a buying guide of their top 5 picks.

https://insideevs.com/features/3415...s-guide-to-home-ev-chargers-plus-top-5-picks/

Note that if your jurisdiction follows the latest National Electrical Code, EVSEs with adjustable current settings, like the Grizzle, need to be hardwired.
Click to expand...
I looked up that Grizzl-e and it does look good. Hard to find, which is probably a good sign. Need to talk to an electrician about the best way to set stuff up, given that I need to park in our driveway - but the circuit board is right inside from there.
 
Das KONA said:
I looked up that Grizzl-e and it does look good. Hard to find, which is probably a good sign. Need to talk to an electrician about the best way to set stuff up, given that I need to park in our driveway - but the circuit board is right inside from there.
Click to expand...
If you buy it have them option it for 32amps, in the future you can change the option to 40 amps very easy. It is completely waterproof if you put it outside.
I had mine setup with the NEMA 14-50 plug, it is the same as a Electric Stove or a 50 amp RV plug, I can take it with me if I move or travel.
 
From what I've read, Grizzl-E is what I'm going to buy when I need one. Right now I'm able to charge at home using the stock Hyundai charger on 240V, and at work I have access to over 30 L2 chargers.

Here's another place to get one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Q22651D/ref=emc_b_5_t

Installing a 2-pole GFCI panel breaker to a 4-wire 14-50 outlet is a lot easier than you think if you've got the time.
 
Check with your electrical utility company to see if they have any discounts or incentive programs; You might be able to get cash back on certain models of EVSE, or need an EVSE with certain capabilities to take advantage of discounted electricity prices.
 
Genevamech said:
Check with your electrical utility company to see if they have any discounts or incentive programs; You might be able to get cash back on certain models of EVSE, or need an EVSE with certain capabilities to take advantage of discounted electricity prices.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply.
We’ve only got one electricity supplier here and they list about a hundred EVSEs eligible for a rebate, so that’s part of what initially confused me. Also, price is the same 24/7 here, so no need to schedule charging for that.
 
Das KONA said:
New 2021 owner on Vancouver Island (Canada). Want a Level 2 for outside at home (15 foot wire would be enough), but I see huge price differences and don't know if all the hundreds of options I see are available here.

Don't need/want wifi, smart charger or any of the fancy stuff. My reading in this forum tells me I want a 40 amp EVSE, with a 50 amp (at least) breaker, on a 240 volt outlet. Not concerned about future-proofing since we'll likely be too old to drive when this car dies. I'm incredibly ignorant about electrical stuff, so will have an electrician do the install and make sure all specs are met.

My question is just about which EVSE to get. One electrician suggested Leviton, but they look fairly pricey compared to others. I'm fine with paying if that's the right choice, but I just can't find any online info that tells me what to do. The rebate site at BC Hydro lists about 100 choices, which helps to bewilder me.

I see there's at least a couple Vancouver Island guys in this forum who seem to know electrical stuff, so I'm hoping I might get some local suggestions, but any advice welcomed.

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Suggestion:
I had a 32A EVSE installed at home and I get great value out of it. It has a type 2 socket rather than a cable. I just use the type 2 cable I keep in the trunk.
However....
If I had installed a standard weatherproof 230V 32A outlet and bought a portable EVSE that switched from 10A to 32A in stages, I could have avoided the need to buy a second one for when I'm travelling (for me, the Hyundai "granny" EVSE 240V 10A max doesn't cut it).
In Australia, the DC fast charging network is still being developed and not every Tesla destination charger will work on the Kona. With the portable EVSE, I can use 15A caravan park outlets and (with the right plug adapter) the 32A 3 phase outlets typically found at show grounds. When I plug in, I set the power level on the EVSE to match the outlet's rated power.
It would have saved me hundreds of dollars had I done it in the first place.
Anyway, just a thought...
 
MagicSmoke said:
From what I've read, Grizzl-E is what I'm going to buy when I need one. Right now I'm able to charge at home using the stock Hyundai charger on 240V, and at work I have access to over 30 L2 chargers.

Here's another place to get one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Q22651D/ref=emc_b_5_t

Installing a 2-pole GFCI panel breaker to a 4-wire 14-50 outlet is a lot easier than you think if you've got the time.
Click to expand...


Bought and received Grizzl-E. Problem is I have an upstream GFCI panel breaker that won't stay closed. The Grizzl-E unit has a built-in GFCI, and the manual recommends against having an upstream GFCI (in the panel). Never occurred to me that two GFCI's protecting the same load wouldn't play nice together.

I'm waiting on tech support reply, and expect to hear that I need to replace my panel breaker with a non-GFCI, which is not a big deal for me (I'm an EE: never touch the energized circuit or you'll let the MagicSmoke out)

I'll post an update when I hear back from Grizzl-E
 
syntaxfx said:
Suggestion:
I had a 32A EVSE installed at home and I get great value out of it. It has a type 2 socket rather than a cable. I just use the type 2 cable I keep in the trunk.
However....
If I had installed a standard weatherproof 230V 32A outlet and bought a portable EVSE that switched from 10A to 32A in stages, I could have avoided the need to buy a second one for when I'm travelling (for me, the Hyundai "granny" EVSE 240V 10A max doesn't cut it).
In Australia, the DC fast charging network is still being developed and not every Tesla destination charger will work on the Kona. With the portable EVSE, I can use 15A caravan park outlets and (with the right plug adapter) the 32A 3 phase outlets typically found at show grounds. When I plug in, I set the power level on the EVSE to match the outlet's rated power.
It would have saved me hundreds of dollars had I done it in the first place.
Anyway, just a thought...
Click to expand...
As I mentioned, I'm extremely ignorant about electrical stuff, so I'm not completely sure I follow everything you said. However, I think that with the Grizzl-E I'm getting I can adjust the amps as needed and even though I'll almost always use it at home, we do take our motorhome to campsites at times and there just might be occasions where we would take the KONA as well, so I'm thinking I'd be able to hook up to campsite power. Probably need to investigate that a bit further to avoid things exploding, but I mentioned it to the electrician who will do my install and he didn't laugh out loud or anything. I think that's along the lines of what you are talking about.
 
MagicSmoke said:
Bought and received Grizzl-E. Problem is I have an upstream GFCI panel breaker that won't stay closed. The Grizzl-E unit has a built-in GFCI, and the manual recommends against having an upstream GFCI (in the panel). Never occurred to me that two GFCI's protecting the same load wouldn't play nice together.

I'm waiting on tech support reply, and expect to hear that I need to replace my panel breaker with a non-GFCI, which is not a big deal for me (I'm an EE: never touch the energized circuit or you'll let the MagicSmoke out)

I'll post an update when I hear back from Grizzl-E
Click to expand...
I've no idea what a GFCI is, but I'll be mentioning this to the electrician when he comes to do my install in a week or two.
 
Das KONA said:
I've no idea what a GFCI is, but I'll be mentioning this to the electrician when he comes to do my install in a week or two.
Click to expand...
GFCI stand for Ground Fault Current Interrupter. It just turns off the circuit if there is a short circuit to ground avoiding a potential for getting shocked by the short circuit. It just a safety device.
 
MagicSmoke said:
Bought and received Grizzl-E. Problem is I have an upstream GFCI panel breaker that won't stay closed. The Grizzl-E unit has a built-in GFCI, and the manual recommends against having an upstream GFCI (in the panel). Never occurred to me that two GFCI's protecting the same load wouldn't play nice together.

I'm waiting on tech support reply, and expect to hear that I need to replace my panel breaker with a non-GFCI, which is not a big deal for me (I'm an EE: never touch the energized circuit or you'll let the MagicSmoke out)

I'll post an update when I hear back from Grizzl-E
Click to expand...
The GFCI breaker rating is Class A - 6ma, the EVSE is class B - 20ma, I suspect this is the issue. No worries about changing the breaker back to non-gfci, as the equipment has sufficient built in ground fault protection;)
https://insideevsforum.com/community/index.php?threads/gfci.9312/#post-106958
 
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Das KONA said:
As I mentioned, I'm extremely ignorant about electrical stuff, so I'm not completely sure I follow everything you said. However, I think that with the Grizzl-E I'm getting I can adjust the amps as needed and even though I'll almost always use it at home, we do take our motorhome to campsites at times and there just might be occasions where we would take the KONA as well, so I'm thinking I'd be able to hook up to campsite power. Probably need to investigate that a bit further to avoid things exploding, but I mentioned it to the electrician who will do my install and he didn't laugh out loud or anything. I think that's along the lines of what you are talking about.
Click to expand...
Yep. Get your sparky to show you what to do.
My installation was a ROLEC Wallpod $AUD950 + $AUD550 to install it. The portable cost $AUD1100. My costs almost doubled once I realised I would need the portable.
 
Wait, what? You can't use a GFCI on a level 2 EVSE feed, by definition, it uses no neutral connection. And
because it uses the safety ground as a signal reference, it has a [very small] "ground fault" all the time.

_H*
 
But surely it can still monitor current imbalance between L1 and L2? The test leakage to verify ground I've measured at 0.2mA on my portable EVSE, way below the trip point of what we downunder instead call an RCD, residual current device.
 
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