I do this all the time, just keep aware that the AC turned on by bluelink will only run for about 15 minutes. You can repeatedly hit bluelink after the time out if needed. You do not need to turn on utility mode or doing any thing special to use your bluelink HVAC functions. As Tim pointed out utility mode is more of a camping feature, meaning you can run all your all 12 Volt systems including HVAC powered by your traction battery without fear it will run down your 12V battery. For example lets say you want to sleep in your car with HVAC on but you don't want or need to have your running lights on- utility mode to the rescue. Also Utility mode has a different 12V battery charge profile compared to"RUN/On"modeDo any of you guys turn on A/C (thru bluelink) when you are in a restaurant so you can come out to a cool car? Do you put it into Utility mode first? Can Utility mode be left on all the time?
My concern was that A/C would run down the 12V battery without turning on Utility mode.I do this all the time, just keep aware that the AC turned on by bluelink will only run for about 15 minutes. You can repeatedly hit bluelink after the time out if needed. You do not need to turn on utility mode or doing any thing special to use your bluelink HVAC functions. As Tim pointed out utility mode is more of a camping feature, meaning you can run all your all 12 Volt systems including HVAC powered by your traction battery without fear it will run down your 12V battery. For example lets say you want to sleep in your car with HVAC on but you don't want or need to have your running lights on- utility mode to the rescue. Also Utility mode has a different 12V battery charge profile compared to"RUN/On"mode
No worries about that as the DC to DC converter is topping up your 12V battery when bluetooth engages your HVAC. In the winter when it hits -32C or colder I will not uncommonly run up to 3 consecutive 15 minutes bluelink initiated heating sessions with no ill effect on the 12V battery. It would be the same for A/C.My concern was that A/C would run down the 12V battery without turning on Utility mode.
OK, that is good to know. I thought the top up occurred only so many times a day, and not that immediate in reaction to a 12v battery drain. So why even have a Utility mode, even for camping, if it is going to get topped all the time? Or does this only happen with remote Climate.No worries about that as the DC to DC converter is topping up your 12V battery when bluetooth engages your HVAC. In the winter when it hits -32C or colder I will not uncommonly run up to 3 consecutive 15 minutes bluelink initiated heating sessions with no ill effect on the 12V battery. It would be the same for A/C.
Basically, yes, remote climate will know to "charge" or at least maintain the 12V battery while it's running....Or does this only happen with remote Climate.
Setting the handbrake turns off the DRLs on my EU model. Between those modes otherwise I don't see much difference in power draw off the traction battery. Ignoring possible safety issues and the power steering not going to sleep, the other main difference that I mentioned some time ago is that in Utility mode the 12V battery is under a continuous charge voltage 14.7V, while in Run it stops that after 30 min and carries on in a float condition, about 13.1V, just like when you're driving, ensuring that no discharge takes place.The advantage of utility mode is that the lights including day light running lights are off as opposed to leaving it in "run" mode...
Setting the handbrake turns off the DRLs on my EU model. Between those modes otherwise I don't see much difference in power draw off the traction battery. Ignoring possible safety issues and the power steering not going to sleep, the other main difference that I mentioned some time ago is that in Utility mode the 12V battery is under a continuous charge voltage 14.7V, while in Run it stops that after 30 min and carries on in a float condition, about 13.1V, just like when you're driving, ensuring that no discharge takes place.
Strange it would turn on the lights, I have never had that happen but again only used it during the day additionally I keep the headlight setting to "off" so maybe this would be the reason. Thanks for the heads up and graph info.I tested out Utility Mode. Here are the steps:
The rear hatch will still open electrically if you have the key, but you'll need to use the mechanical key to open a front door (or crawl through).
- Selected Utility Mode following directions in the manual.
- Plugged my cooler into the 12v outlet.
- If you want to do this in the dark or shade, turn the headlamps off Auto (see below).
- Locked all the doors using the switch on the driver's door.
- Turned the car off.
- Got out of the car, ignoring the "No key in vehicle" beep.
- Locked the driver's door with the mechanical key.
First time, I tried it in my garage. Got back an hour later and the car had turned the headlights on. This used up 6 miles range and 2% charge.
So I tried it outside in the sunlight. Three hours later it had used 1% and 2 miles. Much better. It was running a 12v cooler drawing 4 amps.
Here's the actual 12v voltage - more like 14.8 or so. (The hour between 12 and 13 was with the headlamps on.)
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