Tweeter upgrade - guidance on wiring for crossovers

[coolmen777]

Hi all,
Bought a Clarity in February and finally got around to replacing speakers. After hours of reading on forums and consulting Crutchfield options, ended up buying 2 pairs of JL Audio C1 component sets which came with crossovers included. I understand the woofers in the doors are simple swap (got a Honda factory harness adapter to avoid splicing cables), but not sure what/how to wire tweeters with detached crossovers. Do I need to pull the wires all the way back to doors/woofers? I did get posi connectors which will be required to connect to factory wiring, but don't know where to splice and mount the black boxes (inside pillars?) If anyone has any pics or a guide/reference to help me visualize this.
Also, will replacing rear tweeters make a significant difference? How hard is that install (using existing door space requires any modifications) and how is it mounted (specifically JL Audio C1). Hoping to start in a day or so, have the sound deadening material as well to make the full impact.

Thanks in advance.

 

[fullington99]

Apologies - I have no input, but I'm curious how your install went and what you thought of the results. Did you get a significant improvement over the stock speakers? Best regards.

 

[coolmen777]

Apologies - I have no input, but I'm curious how your install went and what you thought of the results. Did you get a significant improvement over the stock speakers? Best regards.

Hey, I did figure it out, pretty straight forward as it comes to wiring. I ended up only doing woofers in the doors and tweeters in front A-pillars (left rear doors As-Is/stock). JLs tweeters are definitely brighter sounding, I didn't want to overbrighten the sound by replacing rear tweeters, so listed then for sale on eBay. Let me know if you want them.

As to the sound improvement, it is definitely better then stock, but I would suggest doing it in conjunction with Flat DSP hack to mentioned on here and few other Honda forum sites. The DSP controls the output of frequencies and putting better speakers does result in incremental improvement but to get ultimate control of sound quality, it's not enough. I tried using the hack without upgrading speakers and it did result in better sound, but I felt the extra bass coming would often be too strong for weak paper-like woofers and was afraid to destroy them. Hence the reason for the upgrade. While at it, I did a proper sound deadening of the doors which I am sure contributed to better mid-bass. Anyways, hope this helps and good luck.

 

[mustermutti]

This is exactly what I did (well, paid someone to get done). Replace both component speakers in front (tweater & door woofer), add sound dampening in doors, and use it with Flat DSP hack (also Viper4Android, a software sound processor for more EQ control and a few other effects). Made a big difference to me and greatly improved my enjoyment of the car.

 

[coolmen777]

This is exactly what I did (well, paid someone to get done). Replace both component speakers in front (tweater & door woofer), add sound dampening in doors, and use it with Flat DSP hack (also Viper4Android, a software sound processor for more EQ control and a few other effects). Made a big difference to me and greatly improved my enjoyment of the car.

Thanks for your feedback. Would you care to share your Viper settings? I prefer V shaped sound signature and played around with all the options but for some reason can't quiet get it perfectly to my liking.

 

[mustermutti]

I played around a lot in the beginning (with Viper) but ended up settling for pretty minimal changes:

• FET Compressor -10.80dB
• Spectrum Extension 0.44
• FIREqualizer very mildly V-shaped:
  • 31 => +3.5dB
  • 62 => +3.5dB
  • 125 => +3.5dB
  • 250 => +1.2dB
  • 500 => +1.0dB
  • 1k => +0.5dB
  • 2k => +1.2dB
  • 4k => +1.7dB
  • 8k => +3.5dB
  • 16k => +2.5dB