Sooooo much fun until….

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teslarati97 said:
You could get the OBDII information to see the temps. Likely the motor since it doesn't have active liquid cooling like the batteries.
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That BMW I 3 /S motor is liquid cooled the exterior of the motor Is
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build with double walls and liquid circulate between to take a heat away.
 
I couldn't find a chiller or compressor for the engine cooling loop. I remember BMWs needed extra air for the radiator when on dyno machines.
 
Hi Teslarati 97 read this give you some idea how BMW I 3 motor is cooled and Tesla also ,great reading .
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teslarati97 said:
I couldn't find a chiller or compressor for the engine cooling loop. I remember BMWs needed extra air for the radiator when on dyno machines.
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I believe the rotor is the hardest part of the motor to cool and rotor temp could be what is limiting power. If the magnets get too hot, there's a risk of demagnetization and permanent damage and they are not liquid cooled (only the stator/windings are)
 
Carsten Haase said:
I believe the rotor is the hardest part of the motor to cool and rotor temp could be what is limiting power. If the magnets get too hot, there's a risk of demagnetization and permanent damage and they are not liquid cooled (only the stator/windings are)
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According to Car&Driver magazine the Havac system in Mini SE is very complicated system .English is not may first language,never take any classes but I try to explain how fluid is cooled in motor .Basically the same way like ICE car .Make simple liquid run through a motor electric which is build with double walls/shield and pump push a liquid through radiator to cool.Sensors controls temperature .Ev motor works the best at temperature 60-104”F.the same is with high voltage batteries.Any thing above or below Ev is loosing performance,power- speed and range.overheating batteries results in car shots all systems.Cold is a bit friendlier.Heat exchange pump take care of your heating and cooling which run on gas which is compress etc.To much to explain.Heat pump is very efficient but problem start when is cold say below 32” F and a unit can’t collect ambient heat from outside but try to get heat from under the hood whatever motor etc .but your car not going to be toasty like ICE car.That’s why you use heated sits and steering wheel heated and you dress like going to ski in 10 degrees weather .AC works good bc heat pump do a job .Also you precondition a car interior not big batteries they get worm when you start driving only in cold weather when the weather is hot the heat pump do a job to try cool them through 100 feet of hoses and dozens of sensors .Conclusion is a Mini Se is the best car when temperatures are mild 50-90”F .Owning garage with 60 “ temperature I rarely use any of those systems with my limited mileage driving .And not abuse Mini ! Obviously all those informations are there but this is explanation for 5 grader’s.
 
insightman said:
@Giosan in Hawaii reported his experience after putting sticky Yokohama tires on his SE and going autocrossing. "I never had the car overheat and hold back power" he writes.
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There is a big difference between an autocross and a track day or street driving. I have actually raced BMW's for 20+ years with lots of autocrosses as well. An autocross is the easiest on the car. VERY short time, less than 1-3 minutes for almost all coned set-ups (these area almost always done with cones in parking lots).

So that we all can be on the same page:

RACE = around a track with other cars with a timed start and finish
TRACK DAY = around a track with other cars, limited passing most often (except advanced groups) and no timing
AUTOCROSS/AUTOX = short drives around cones (or a go-kart track sometimes) with no other cars, being timed

An autox is not a race, it may be a competition, but it is most certainly not a race.

I have lost power here in PHX during the summer (118deg F) just driving in sport home from the office (15 minutes). It is fine at 90+, it is just in sport with full throttle from each light to the next, it starts to give up the ghost after 10 min or so.

Yes, I have sticky tires and drive in sport almost always.

I get 80-90 miles on a charge driving in sport with racks and sticky tires.

BTW, here is me "racing"
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We have been using inverter motors in metal working machine tools ... lathes, milling machines etc and most of the inverters and motor packages come with two Hp ratings ... one for continuous use and one for 30 minutes with the 30 minute rating being 25% or so higher. Its all about heat and the ability of the heat to be removed from the drive system. Braking is the sneaky part that most people under estimate and acceleration and hard braking double up the heat generation in the drive. In machining if a part requires a lot of stopping of the spindles for part reloading or tool changing the drives will overheat even faster than just pushing the 25% over rating. These drive systems have been used in machine tools for 20
25 years ... but only a few years in automobile drives. The harder your push the hotter they get and they limit themselves so they don't self destruct.
 
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