Running ICE after self ICE ran

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Nikko508

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Hello everyone..
I have a confusing question.
So I run the car in HV every morning to work and run in EV on the ride back due to no charger at work. I have no problem doing this unless the ICE runs on its own before I can switch it to HV in the morning. When this happens the It runs for for its 10 minutes or so like it should when in self diagnose mode, when it shuts off and i try to put in HV mode it will not allow me. Infact I can get the ICE to turn on if and only I hit the HV button so it's not illuminated on the dash, if the HV is illuminated on the dash the car is in EV untill I hit the pedal down past the detention switch, then it will turn on the ice and turn it off again if the call for more power is below the call for HV. . I don't understand, it's almost backwards. Looking for real answer please, I don't even know if I'm explaining this correctly.. Thanks in advance.
 
Based on your description, it could be a software glitch. You could try the Kentucky Ken reboot or take it to a dealer, where it is almost a guarantee that the car will refuse to misbehave. The reboot involves disconnecting the 12V battery for 30 seconds or so, reconnecting, then waiting for all the dash warnings to disappear.

How long have you had the car?
Is the issue a recent development?
Are you able to select HV immediately after start up, prior to pulling out of the garage or driveway?
How often does the ICE run a self diagnosis?

Does any of the above meet your criteria of a real answer?
 
I've had the car for 1.5 years.
I don't know if this is a resent issue, it's just resent that the charger at work has stoped working so this driving in HV in the morning is somewhat new.
Yes I can go in HV mode as soon as i pull out of garage.
The ICE runs once every 14, 20 days or so.
Yes, most of your info is much appreciated.
I just don't want to spend time reading through garbage like ; don't drive the car in the morning or drive in EV in the morning and HV on the way back.. Didn't mean to sound like I'm not appreciative with good answers..
 
Nikko508 said:
I just don't want to spend time reading through garbage like ; don't drive the car in the morning or drive in EV in the morning and HV on the way back..
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Man, am I glad I didn’t say that it really doesn’t matter where in your commute you use HV or EV, if it is typically a 50/50 split.

The exception would be, if you are expecting heavy traffic in one direction but not the other. EV is the preferred mode in heavy traffic. You probably know those tricks.

There is something peculiar going on with your car, however.
 
Maybe after a full plug in charge follow by an additional engine test charge the car is program not to allow HV mode to be activated until the battery charge level is drawn down a bit.
 
GXF said:
Maybe after a full plug in charge follow by an additional engine test charge the car is program not to allow HV mode to be activated until the battery charge level is drawn down a bit.
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I would agree with that. After a full charge and if the engine ran the battery level probably needs to drop a little. Even using the regen paddles with a full battery will start the engine. Seems backwards but the car can also use the electric motors and gas engine in such a way to expend electricity to prevent overcharging. So to prevent the engine from starting you need to have the battery level drop a little or don’t fully charge.

Try to avoid starting the engine while you have a full charge by having a light foot, using Eco Mode, and avoiding regen for the first 2 miles. Once on the highway for a couple of miles switch to HV Mode and feel free to use Normal or Sport mode. Then when you are a couple miles from the highway off ramp switch off HV mode to use up a little more battery. I will bet the issue will not pop up this way. The engine maintenance mode is very infrequent if you run the engine often.
 
GXF said:
Maybe after a full plug in charge follow by an additional engine test charge the car is program not to allow HV mode to be activated until the battery charge level is drawn down a bit.
Click to expand...

I would agree with that. After a full charge and if the engine ran the battery level probably needs to drop a little.

Try to avoid starting the engine while you have a full charge by having a light foot, Eco Mode, and not using the regen paddles for the first couple of miles. As odd as it seems the engine will also start to expend electricity to avoid overcharging. The maintenance mode should be rare if you run the engine weekly.

Once on the highway and using HV Mode feel free to use Normal or Sport mode.

Then when you are a couple miles from the highway off ramp switch back to EV.

Or simply don’t charge to 100%. Would be nice to have a setting to charge to just 95%.
 
Sorry about the almost duplicated entry. As I typed it seemed to have been lost so I reposted from memory then both appeared.
 
The Gadgeteer said:
Sorry about the almost duplicated entry. As I typed it seemed to have been lost so I reposted from memory then both appeared.
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I’ve experienced the same issue. Not the HV issue. The disappearing/amended post issue.

I may stem from ads popping up on the page which then shifts/self-scrolls the page. That could lead to touching the screen in an unintended area and causing undesirable consequences.

I’ve found that the completely unintuitive process of going back a page and then forward a page and then scrolling down to the “post reply” area frequently reveals the version of the draft that was last seen. In extreme cases, closing the app, reopening the app, selecting the thread and scrolling to the “post reply” zone has also worked.
 
Does the “engine running system check“ charge or attempt to charge the battery?

Would it attempt to charge a fully charged battery?

In HV, couldn’t the engine run, if necessary, and provide just enough electricity for the electric motor to propel the car without generating surplus electricity that would be sent off to restore the charge in the battery? In other words, would a fully charged battery need to be partially discharged in order for the ICE to provide electricity to the traction motor?

In HV, doesn’t the car, on occasion, revert to EV?
 
The Gadgeteer said:
Sorry about the almost duplicated entry. As I typed it seemed to have been lost so I reposted from memory then both appeared.
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FYI - There is a certain amount of time after posting that you can edit your post (several hours?). During this time you can edit (or even delete) a post, so if you have a snafu like this, you do have some time to fix it.
 
Thanks. In my haste and frustration I had forgotten about that. Truth is the snafu happened a couple of times in a row and it was just time to walk away. I am lucky there was only two.
 
I have caused the engine to start at full charge and while the engine is running I have noticed the range doesn’t drop or drops more slowly than with the engine not running.
 
The Gadgeteer said:
I have caused the engine to start at full charge and while the engine is running I have noticed the range doesn’t drop or drops more slowly than with the engine not running.
Click to expand...
Mine loses both EV and HV range when the ICE fires up by itself on a full charge. Talk about double dipping.

I don't see why Honda didn't simply program the system to disconnect regen until the charge dropped a bit. You can do it yourself using Neutral, but that is a pain.
 
That is exactly how the foot brake works. Simply put cars need to have two ways to slow down. One is physical brakes and the other is not physical brakes to avoid brake fade coming down a mountain. In many cars that is downshifting. But on the Clarity:

1) Foot pedal: activates physical brakes with regen
2) Regen paddles: regen & if battery is full then regen with engine “braking”
 
That ICE kick in is probably my biggest gripe about the car. It's especially frustrating because it happens when it would be most efficient to be using battery IE around town
 
Had what I consider a glitch a few days ago. After a full charge, I may have stopped short too quickly in the parking lot. Regen with full battery made the engine kick in.

At that point, the gauge turned all white and EV status was off for a while. I figured engine needed to warm up fully before it would go back to normal. Eventually, EV status came back, but the gauge did not turn blue - it stayed white.

I drove a bit more, but noticed that the engine would kick back in after a little bit (and EV status would go off), even though I was driving 'nice'. Pressed HV button and engine would behave normally, even with a small blue gauge. But taking it off HV mode, went back to full white gauge and behaving weird with engine turning on and off.

At a stop light, I turned it off, and back on and started behaving correctly.
 
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