New Generation Kona EV
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That's a good idea. The brake-disc rusting problem is partially my fault--the Clarity PHEV sits undriven in the garage for long periods of time because my MINI Cooper SE is so much more fun to drive. If I would just drive the Clarity more often, your technique would keep the rotors rust-free.
My understanding is the brake pedal uses regenerative braking until almost stopped. So not much different than using the paddle. I clean the discs occasionally on a downhill by putting it in neutral and then using the brakes - no regen in neutral.
Domenick
Well-Known Member
My method just involves zipping up to about 45 mph and hitting the brakes hard enough that it needs employs the physical brakes along with the regen. I've only had to do this once (and I drive a Model 3, not a Kona). Neutral on a slight hill is probably safer.
KiwiME
Well-Known Member
That's correct, the paddle avoids the disk completely down to a stop, as does 1-pedal in a Tesla.
As best as I've determined from Tesla Owners Club forum members pressing the brake pedal in a Model 3/Y always uses the disks anyway, so even gentle foot braking should be effective at removing rust.
Domenick
Well-Known Member
I tried braking normally, but the sound didn't really go away until I tried it with more force than I would generally use.
(but enough about me and my dumb car, this is a Kona EV thread
)I do it hard enough to use hydraulics to press brake pads to discs. And long enough to polish all the rust, so discs are rust-free.
Quite a change from previous version. I like the fact the cell modules are low profile and the use of aluminum for construction which should improve cooling of the cells. The pack also appears a bit easier to service (ie module replacement if required).
hobbit
Well-Known Member
This thread has been entirely missing the fact that moving to Neutral disables regen, so all braking in that
state is 100% hydraulic. So no need to slam the brakes, and in fact hard stabs at the pedal instead of
smooth, gentle application is more likely to warp rotors and such. I use the Neutral trick down the first
small downhill going out of my neighborhood, seems to keep the rear end much quieter for the rest
of the drive.
_H*
state is 100% hydraulic. So no need to slam the brakes, and in fact hard stabs at the pedal instead of
smooth, gentle application is more likely to warp rotors and such. I use the Neutral trick down the first
small downhill going out of my neighborhood, seems to keep the rear end much quieter for the rest
of the drive.
_H*
KiwiME
Well-Known Member
It appears certain that the motor is permanently wired to the inverter. I expect the inverter is powered-up (with 12V) but disabled from applying current to the motor windings.
A useful test would be to compare the power draw (in the Electricity Usage menu) between Level 0 coasting and Neutral at some moderate speed like 50 km/h. We already know it regens about 2kW in Level 0 but is that zero in N?
A useful test would be to compare the power draw (in the Electricity Usage menu) between Level 0 coasting and Neutral at some moderate speed like 50 km/h. We already know it regens about 2kW in Level 0 but is that zero in N?
hobbit
Well-Known Member
Neutral in just about any EV or hybrid drivetrain means simply "don't control the motors at all". No
current in or out. Well, except perhaps for a bit of deliberate field-weakening at high speed to
avoid overvoltage, but that's a deep subtlety that for this discussion we can ignore.
So yes, zero in N. You can see that in the "electricity use" screen or whatever that is.
_H*
current in or out. Well, except perhaps for a bit of deliberate field-weakening at high speed to
avoid overvoltage, but that's a deep subtlety that for this discussion we can ignore.
So yes, zero in N. You can see that in the "electricity use" screen or whatever that is.
_H*
Tried it today and yes 0 kW is displayed in the Drivetrain Instant category when cruising in "N".
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KiwiME
Well-Known Member
Regarding control of the inverter I'm only seeing drive-mode-related input from the buttons where I see that there is a single analog communication line (which I understand to be resistive like typical steering wheel buttons) in addition to CAN, no doubt for redundancy.
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Meanwhile, I'm seeing info from an owner of the 2nd Gen Niro EV describing an improvement where it's being suggested that the 12V battery can request a charge off the traction battery as required, either immediately or within a short time period. If present on the new Kona (and surely it would be) that would presumably eliminate most 12V battery issues.
This should perform as well as Tesla's 16V LFE auxiliary battery that does this using its internal BMS and LIN data connection to the car. Their LFE has the same approximate capacity as a lead-acid so evidently increased capacity wasn't deemed necessary. I'll add as a note that engaging the parking cam feature brings the traction battery online for the entire duration.
Using the lead-acid intelligent battery monitor we already have (located on the battery negative post) it was only a matter of designing a way for that to wake up the car via its existing LIN communication wire.
So far the only complaints I'm seeing concerning the new Niro (other than the 'piano black' surfaces) is that there is some perception of reduced efficiency.
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Meanwhile, I'm seeing info from an owner of the 2nd Gen Niro EV describing an improvement where it's being suggested that the 12V battery can request a charge off the traction battery as required, either immediately or within a short time period. If present on the new Kona (and surely it would be) that would presumably eliminate most 12V battery issues.
This should perform as well as Tesla's 16V LFE auxiliary battery that does this using its internal BMS and LIN data connection to the car. Their LFE has the same approximate capacity as a lead-acid so evidently increased capacity wasn't deemed necessary. I'll add as a note that engaging the parking cam feature brings the traction battery online for the entire duration.
Using the lead-acid intelligent battery monitor we already have (located on the battery negative post) it was only a matter of designing a way for that to wake up the car via its existing LIN communication wire.
So far the only complaints I'm seeing concerning the new Niro (other than the 'piano black' surfaces) is that there is some perception of reduced efficiency.
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Jim Matthews
Active Member
Do you suppose the newer version plainly weighs more?
Weight specs have not yet been released for 24 Kona EV, however w/19" wheels less efficiency may be expected.
In this review a respectable 192 wH/km was achieved driving in sport mode, at hwy speeds with a/c on (not a huge difference to the existing model).
KiwiME
Well-Known Member
Determining that was only matter of an internet search but by all accounts the 2023+ is 120 lbs lighter.
Standardised tests indicate energy consumption is less than the old model and I'm more inclined to believe measured data rather than owner impressions.
https://insideevs.com/news/658026/2023-kia-niro-ev-epa-range-price/