Multiple System Warnings

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StickWare

StickWare

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So driving yesterday I got like 6-7 warnings and my dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree.

after a few hours of driving, it went down to 3, then all went away.

but today they are all back. I read in another thread about disconnecting the battery but that didn’t work.

any ideas? Will the dealer charge me for this you think ? Car is 19 mo old with 98K miles.
 

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WOW! 98k in 19mo. That is over 170 miles every day on average or nearly 250 miles for every weekday (excluding holidays)! I can't fathom that much driving (and I once put 60k on a car in 18 months and thought that was a ton)! Regardless, to answer your question, I'd take it into the dealer and make sure all SBs have been applied. If they have been, then there is a good chance you have an issue that they will want to charge you to fix unless you bought an extended warranty. Good Luck!
 
StickWare said:
So driving yesterday I got like 6-7 warnings and my dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree.

after a few hours of driving, it went down to 3, then all went away.

but today they are all back. I read in another thread about disconnecting the battery but that didn’t work.

any ideas? Will the dealer charge me for this you think ? Car is 19 mo old with 98K miles.
Click to expand...
On the display under P | Ready | EV is the circled i indicator. Have you tried pressing the i button on the steering wheel and see what additional information the car gives you?
 
A low 12v battery caused this for me before. All went away once the traction battery was able to top off the 12v battery again.
Could be as simple as a quick battery load test at an auto parts store to determine if you have a weak battery.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Mike95465 said:
A low 12v battery caused this for me before. All went away once the traction battery was able to top off the 12v battery again.
Could be as simple as a quick battery load test at an auto parts store to determine if you have a weak battery.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Hmmmm


I have a charger on my other car. I’ll charge it tonight.
Yes I’ve pressed I. It just cycles all these messages.
 

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These warnings came on while driving or when you first started the car, then slowly went away? If you disconnect the 12 volt battery many dash lights will illuminate. This is actually discussed in the Clarity Owners Manual on page 509 for the 12 volt battery maintenance. If this is the case, then I would, like above, recommend checking the battery. Keep in mind that the 12 volt battery may actually be fine (with your vehicle age I would be surprised if it was failing) but you have a loose terminal connection. Unlike regular cars that have high current draw starter motors to start the ICE (some drawing several hundred amps for a few seconds) it takes very little current to close the HV battery contactors or run accessories. So, where a loose battery connection will show up on a regular car as the lights working but the starter not (clicking etc) for the Clarity you get electrical gremlins. Try checking the battery posts for fit and clean or tighten them. If that isn't it then have the battery tested, if that isn't it - well, let all of us know what the dealer says?!? Also, from personal experience, you do have to perform the below procedure to really clear these errors if caused by the 12 volt electrical system.

From the Manual:

The indicators for the Vehicle Stability Assist (VSA®)
system, VSA® OFF, Collision Mitigation Braking
SystemTM (CMBSTM), and low tire pressure/Tire
Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) may come on
along with a message in the driver information
interface when you turn the power system on after
reconnecting the battery.
Drive a short distance at 12 mph (20 km/h). The
indicator should go off. If it does not, have your
vehicle checked by an authorized Honda Clarity Plug-
In Hybrid dealer.


Note: Then drive at 88 MPH to clear the Flux Capacitor and regain those long streaks of fire behind your tires... sorry, couldn't help it - on a kick lately...

Cheers,

Cash
 
We had 3 system warnings come up while driving that persisted.
Something like "Transmission shift error, electronic parking brake error, brake problem"

Turned out it was some debris under the reverse toggle/switch keeping it from completely returning to it's "home" position.

Dealer said it would not be covered under warranty, offered to split the labor cost. When I go there to pick it up, they had waived all charges.
 
Things just keep getting worse.

lights on all day today. When I got I disconnected both positive and negative. I then touched them together through a wrench as I read that does a reset.

when I put it back on like 10 min later the car doesn’t start.

all lights come on but the Immobilizer light flashes. And car won’t move.

manual says this “if It continues to blink there may be a problem with the system”

yea thanks. No kidding.
 
I am sooo sorry. I'm going to put this here. I have it in another thread but for others, never do a "short" reset of a Clarity. Even Dealers will sometimes say they will do this kind of "reset." It is something that works on other regular cars but is bad mojo on the Clarity. My dealer did this and it took me all afternoon to work out the bugs after. If disconnecting the 12v battery for at least 5 minutes (really don't need more than that) doesn't help then the solution requires a Honda scantool. https://honda.oemdtc.com/342/i-hds-diagnostic-software-and-j2534-reprogramming-software

The dealer that did the "button cleaning" didn't charge you likely for a reason. They aren't sure what they did either. Have them pull the MIL/DTC's out of the system. The Honda Clarity is a HIGHLY diagnostically monitored car. Honda put these things out there with extremely high detail telemetric recording more for their data than ours. You can find a lot of details just through your Infotainment display (diagnostics page) but a lot of the errors you are reporting will require a Honda scan with their code interpreter.

https://www.insideevsforum.com/comm...ngs-and-driving-restrictions.4642/#post-48587

Honestly based on everything I have read on the honda tech site and here, they should have a list print out that tells them exactly what faults, when, where, etc. Everything from a loose PCB connector to a ground fault...

Again, very sorry you are having these issues with what for others has been a highly reliable vehicle. Honda has a lot riding on the brand for these new vehicles, if the dealer you are using doesn't get it - find another. I know that may be a hard option with a car that you can't move. However for me I realized early on that the dealer I bought my car from never invested in the Clarity concept (they don't even have a charger, now two years later...) I fortunately have another option just a few miles farther away that actually speaks Clarity and invested in the training and infrastructure to support them.

Best wishes,
Cash
 
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@StickWare

Please let us know what the outcome is. At least as far as I know (which is not much) yours is the first critical, non-accident, failure on this forum. I am less interested in the dealer's activities and more in how Honda handles it. Fingers crossed for you that it is actually something critical but still simple to fix when they know the right thing to do. I am also curious how Honda responds to the age-mileage ratio issue on your warranty. Good luck my friend!

Cash
 
If you are in a Zev state with longer pzev warranty, then drive train items are covered 15 yr/150k miles. You might dig up your warranty to see.
 
I replaced one on a Tahoe once and it was hard to get to, but wasn't too much of a beast either. Saved me over $1000 as compared to getting it done at a dealership. I think the link below might be the part you would have to buy, but you would need to double check that:

https://www.hondapartsnow.com/oem-honda-clarity_electric-abs_control_module.html

I think the top three on this page might be the correct part used on Ebay:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...honda+clarity+brake+pump+assembly&_sacat=6030

For the Tahoe, there was an company that would send you a rebuilt one and then you sent yours back to them and they would rebuild it to sell to another customer. I did the repair at least 12 years ago and no problems afterward using the rebuilt part.....
Edited... first links showed master cylinder...
 
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Either way there is one major point. If Honda says you are out of warranty, that means you have options. You can put any part from any source you want on it and chose any service center or mechanic you want. As Robert mentioned above, there are parts out there both from Honda supply and now on salvaged Clarity cars on ebay (all likely much lower mileage than yours). Even if you don't want to do the work you can get the part and have another shop do it. The difference is always going to be the warranty. If Honda will install it and give you a substantial warranty on the work for the extra $1000 then great, if not - then time to shop around. Admittedly we as PHEV owners are likely pretty locked in to Honda for any powertrain or battery issues as well.... At least until Rich opens more EV franchises!

https://www.hondapartsnow.com/oem-honda-clarity_plug_in_hybrid-abs_control_module.html That ebay location above is for a salvaged car and they can likely pull any part you want by number. 57111-TRW-A00 is the ABS control module, however there is a note it has been replaced by A01 on the parts list. This is possibly due to a problem with the original A00. Might be worth the questions, and if so - a call to Honda as one of their prototype owners! All they can do is say no.

Best wishes and good luck, however for non-PHEV things, I see no reason to feel locked into Dealer Prices.

Have them print out your HV battery capacity while they have it plugged in. Very curious considering your utilization how it is doing?
https://www.insideevsforum.com/comm...-test-reports-ongoing-data-for-warranty.8317/



Cash
 
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Cash Traylor said:
These warnings came on while driving or when you first started the car, then slowly went away? If you disconnect the 12 volt battery many dash lights will illuminate. This is actually discussed in the Clarity Owners Manual on page 509 for the 12 volt battery maintenance. If this is the case, then I would, like above, recommend checking the battery. Keep in mind that the 12 volt battery may actually be fine (with your vehicle age I would be surprised if it was failing) but you have a loose terminal connection. Unlike regular cars that have high current draw starter motors to start the ICE (some drawing several hundred amps for a few seconds) it takes very little current to close the HV battery contactors or run accessories. So, where a loose battery connection will show up on a regular car as the lights working but the starter not (clicking etc) for the Clarity you get electrical gremlins. Try checking the battery posts for fit and clean or tighten them. If that isn't it then have the battery tested, if that isn't it - well, let all of us know what the dealer says?!? Also, from personal experience, you do have to perform the below procedure to really clear these errors if caused by the 12 volt electrical system.

From the Manual:

The indicators for the Vehicle Stability Assist (VSA®)
system, VSA® OFF, Collision Mitigation Braking
SystemTM (CMBSTM), and low tire pressure/Tire
Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) may come on
along with a message in the driver information
interface when you turn the power system on after
reconnecting the battery.
Drive a short distance at 12 mph (20 km/h). The
indicator should go off. If it does not, have your
vehicle checked by an authorized Honda Clarity Plug-
In Hybrid dealer.


Note: Then drive at 88 MPH to clear the Flux Capacitor and regain those long streaks of fire behind your tires... sorry, couldn't help it - on a kick lately...

Cheers,

Cash
Click to expand...
As usual, CashTraylor is right on with explanation and advice. I read lots of user sights for Honda vehicles and there are many complaints about OEM batteries having a short life with new models (tires, too), including the Clarity. Anecdotally, the OEM battery on my 2017 Accord Hybrid failed with the same mileage after 1 1/2 years.
 
Update: finally got car back today. The dealership said I needed a new battery also so they did that too for $124.

The service manager said they talked to Honda to help me out and give me a deal.

many final bill was about $1500. much better than the $2400 I was quoted for the module part alone.

not too bad.
 
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