Lock Cylinder Replacement

  • Thread starter Thread starter lincomatic
  • Start date Start date
  • Replies Replies 21
  • Views Views 8K
L

lincomatic

Member
Previously, someone had broken my lock cylinder, trying to break into my car. This morning, I found that someone else had finished the job. The lock cylinder is now completely gone!

upload_2022-5-4_9-4-39.webp

The "stealer" wants a ridiculous $700 to replace it. I found the part online for about $140. Does anyone have any tips on the procedure or link to instructions before i blindly rip into the door and try to figure it out myself?
TIA
 
lincomatic said:
Previously, someone had broken my lock cylinder, trying to break into my car. This morning, I found that someone else had finished the job. The lock cylinder is now completely gone!

View attachment 16322

The "stealer" wants a ridiculous $700 to replace it. I found the part online for about $140. Does anyone have any tips on the procedure or link to instructions before i blindly rip into the door and try to figure it out myself?
TIA
Click to expand...
After two tries, you're assuming the thieves have learned their lesson and put the info up on ThievesBook so you won't have a problem with your replacement cylinder?

My favorite story in Car and Driver was from a guy in NYC whose car was repeatedly broken into to steal his radio. After fixing the damage a few times he gave up, left the gaping hole in his dashboard, and put a "NO RADIO" sign in the window. Sadly, one day he returned to his car to find his side window again broken and on his sign was written "JUST CHECKING."
 
You need to take the inside door panels off first then you can get to the bolts/screw/whatever holding down the door handle to replace the cylinder.
 
Does the damage keep the door from physically locking? Haven't used the exterior lock ever in my Clarity, I would probably just leave it broken.
 
Mowcowbell said:
Does the damage keep the door from physically locking? Haven't used the exterior lock ever in my Clarity, I would probably just leave it broken.
Click to expand...

It still locks, but there's only one tumbler left in the lock, so it's very easy to pick. I hadn't been able to use the mechanical lock ever since I bought the car, because the lock cylinder was broken. Now, the key easily opens the car, too.

It's a good idea to have a working lock, in case your battery dies, or the fob malfunctions.
 
lincomatic said:
Previously, someone had broken my lock cylinder, trying to break into my car. This morning, I found that someone else had finished the job. The lock cylinder is now completely gone!

The "stealer" wants a ridiculous $700 to replace it. I found the part online for about $140. Does anyone have any tips on the procedure or link to instructions before i blindly rip into the door and try to figure it out myself?
TIA
Click to expand...
You may want to call around to some locksmiths and get some prices from them for replacing the cylinder. It will probably require a new physical key to go with it (the part that pops out of the fob), which they can get from Honda also or whatever their sources because I think Clarity uses the standard Honda physical key.
 
Frankwell said:
You may want to call around to some locksmiths and get some prices from them for replacing the cylinder. It will probably require a new physical key to go with it (the part that pops out of the fob), which they can get from Honda also or whatever their sources because I think Clarity uses the standard Honda physical key.
Click to expand...

Nah, I've been working on cars since a kid. A lock cylinder isn't a difficult job, but it can be very time-consuming sometimes, if I have to figure out everything w/o some tips from someone who's done it before. I already ordered a new OEM lock cylinder for $135; it includes 2 new keys.
 
ptcr00 said:
Don't throw your original key away, you will still need it to unlock the lock behind the rear left seat's headrest in case you have to get into the trunk if the 12V battery is dead or the electric trunk release is no longer working.
Click to expand...
And there would be two old keys so best to keep both. Could keep one of them in the glovebox or center console since it might be needed when away from home.
 
I had a similar situation. I ordered part 04921-TRT-A01 (left door cylinder), and it works, but came with full-size keys and not the mini-keys that can hide in the fob. Replacing the door cylinder was quite easy (10mm socket wrench required), and did not require removing the door panel. The trick is making sure not to drop the screw that fastens the cylinder into the door...

Upon further searching, it looks like I should have ordered 06350-TRT-A51, which contains 2 of the proper size key, and also the back-seat cylinder. Whoopsie.

The door cylinder is not easily rekeyed, since it is riveted together. The rivet would likely need to be replaced during a rekeying.
 
Last edited:
I've had my lock cylinder replaced twice so far, after repeated break-ins. My local mechanic (across the street from a Honda dealership) charged around $350 for the job (incl parts). Have since added a 2-way alarm system and dashcams with parking recording; no break-ins since then but maybe that was just coincidence.
 
In case anyone wants to take a gamble, the significantly cheaper (about US$60) 06350-TLA-A51 key set for the CR-V likely also fits the door (and has the proper shape keys). It, however, might not replace the backseat lock, so you'd want to hide the old key (which fits your existing back set) in the car somewhere in case of emergency.

Also, I was able to replace the door cylinder (using kit 06350-TRT-A51, about US$180, which also includes the backseat cylinder), without removing the interior door panel. After removing the bolt from the door jamb, the cylinder can be removed (while pulling the handle open). It takes less than 10 minutes to replace the door cylinder.
 
Last edited:
...and the trunk cylinder can be replaced just as quickly (if you don't need to replace the cylinder bracket, which is included in the kit):
  1. Open the trunk.
  2. Inside the trunk, locate the plastic cover over the cylinder (left side of car, directly behind the seat's head rest). Slide the plastic cover to the upper-right to disengage it from a plastic trim clip. Alternatively, you can pull the cover back, but this risks damaging the plastic parts.
  3. Remove the bolt (using 10mm hex socket) holding the lock cylinder to the key cylinder bracket.
  4. Rotate the cylinder clockwise within the bracket, and pull it rearwards to remove.
  5. Disengage the truck opener cable from the lock cylinder.
  6. Installation is a straight forward reversal of the removal instructions. Bolt torque is 9.3N*m, 6.9 ft-lbf.
Removing the key cylinder bracket is much more involved, requiring removal of the seat back and C-pillar trim.

The rear seat lock cylinder isn't crimped together, and can be rekeyed/dismantled. This makes it more likely that the CR-V rekey kit can be used with the Clarity (worst-case, by transferring the pins from the CR-V cylinder to the existing Clarity rear-seat cylinder) .
 
Last edited:
mustermutti said:
I've had my lock cylinder replaced twice so far, after repeated break-ins. My local mechanic (across the street from a Honda dealership) charged around $350 for the job (incl parts). Have since added a 2-way alarm system and dashcams with parking recording; no break-ins since then but maybe that was just coincidence.
Click to expand...
Do you have a invoice to verify the part numbers? Was it all three locks?
 
04921-trt-a01 was the part number mentioned on the invoice. Just a single lock cylinder (driver side door, that's the only key hole so I don't think the other 3 doors have one?)
 
Does anyone know if the trunk release key is actually a key or will work with any key shaped object (i.e. accord key)or it has to be the same key as the door?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top