Kona was dead this morning..

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FloridaSun

FloridaSun

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... but it may have been caused by the hatch not being closed completely.. Put the 12 Volt on a slow charger and was able to start the car.. No more issues so far today.. On a 50kw charger right now.. will post updates in the Recall 196 thread on that..
 
Looks like it must've been the rear hatch not being closed.. Car was fine this morning.. 12 Volt battery level seemed fine..
 
BlueKonaEV said:
Looks like it must've been the rear hatch not being closed.. Car was fine this morning.. 12 Volt battery level seemed fine..
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That was one of the more minor issues I have with the car - the rear hatch doesn't always close completely. It was on my list of things that I wanted them to correct, but I forgot to even mention when the battery thing came up.
 
ericy said:
That was one of the more minor issues I have with the car - the rear hatch doesn't always close completely. It was on my list of things that I wanted them to correct, but I forgot to even mention when the battery thing came up.
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Mine has always closed correctly.. The reason why it didn't close was because one of our NYLON shopping bags was right on top of the latch, causing it not to be closed..
 
BlueKonaEV said:
Mine has always closed correctly.. The reason why it didn't close was because one of our NYLON shopping bags was right on top of the latch, causing it not to be closed..
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That seems like something they could accomodate with a software update.
 
Its possible your dealer may have also ran your 12v battery's capacity down during your recent service visit and the poorly closed hatch was enough to completely finish it. I am finding now with colder weather approaching I have to keep a close eye on my CTEK battery monitor, with the extra 12v activity related to heating my new battery's capacity will drift cumulatively into a much lower SOC(hit as low as 30% recently) than it does in warmer weather. I think the software updates that increased frequency of 12v management helps but I don't have complete faith it will overcome the severe cold factors I have to deal with. I think at least during the winter months I am going to get into the routine of running a trickle charge overnight at least once a month to make sure it does not stay in a chronically low SOC which is usually the beginning of the end for these batteries.
 
apu said:
Its possible your dealer may have also ran your 12v battery's capacity down during your recent service visit and the poorly closed hatch was enough to completely finish it. I am finding now with colder weather approaching I have to keep a close eye on my CTEK battery monitor, with the extra 12v activity related to heating my new battery's capacity will drift cumulatively into a much lower SOC(hit as low as 30% recently) than it does in warmer weather. I think the software updates that increased frequency of 12v management helps but I don't have complete faith it will overcome the severe cold factors I have to deal with. I think at least during the winter months I am going to get into the routine of running a trickle charge overnight at least once a month to make sure it does not stay in a chronically low SOC which is usually the beginning of the end for these batteries.
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It's very possible that the 12 Volt was at a low SoC after the update.. I'll keep an eye on it... but so far, it hasn't happened again, so it was likely just because of the hatch.
 
BlueKonaEV said:
It's very possible that the 12 Volt was at a low SoC after the update.. I'll keep an eye on it... but so far, it hasn't happened again, so it was likely just because of the hatch.
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I am sure your battery is going to be fine. You have the absolute advantage of warm temperature(or modestly cool during winter) where even a little remaining battery capacity will still keep you going.

Further to my to claim how adversely cold has an effect on our 12v batteries I have distinctly noticed a drop in SOC as claimed by my CTEK monitor that correlates to longer drives( more than 50km duration trips) with heating on. This may include window defrost, heated steering wheel and seat warmers. Despite the DC to DC charger providing voltage to recharge the 12V battery I suspect its not quite long enough, I have also heard the DC to DC charges stops topping up the battery after 20 minutes of drive time. I have not been able to confirm this. It also does not help that during severe cold, cars that are equipped with a battery heater will have it turn on seemingly randomly while the car is parked to protect the traction battery. Despite the heater being directly powered by the traction battery I suspect the two coolant circulations pumps are 12v powered. I think Hyundai is addressing the increased frequency of 12v recharging well with the BMS update earlier in the year but my sneaking suspicion is that cars with a battery heater that experience very cold winters need a higher capacity 12v battery.
 
apu said:
Further to my to claim how adversely cold has an effect on our 12v batteries I have distinctly noticed a drop in SOC as claimed by my CTEK monitor that correlates to longer drives( more than 50km duration trips) with heating on. This may include window defrost, heated steering wheel and seat warmers. Despite the DC to DC charger providing voltage to recharge the 12V battery I suspect its not quite long enough, I have also heard the DC to DC charges stops topping up the battery after 20 minutes of drive time. I have not been able to confirm this. It also does not help that during severe cold, cars that are equipped with a battery heater will have it turn on seemingly randomly while the car is parked to protect the traction battery. Despite the heater being directly powered by the traction battery I suspect the two coolant circulations pumps are 12v powered. I think Hyundai is addressing the increased frequency of 12v recharging well with the BMS update earlier in the year but my sneaking suspicion is that cars with a battery heater that experience very cold winters need a higher capacity 12v battery.
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I think you are right. My wife was out with the car and just returned. So I did a check on the battery with my BM2 monitor and to my surprise the aux battery was not fully charged despite being charged while she was driving (although a short trip). And just before she went out, it was 100% charged. I do see that the traction battery does charge my aux battery every 5 hours or so while in the garage, so it will probably soon be fully charged again.
 
And oh, I just poked my head into the garage, and my grille light is on, so it is charging right now.
 
apu said:
I am sure your battery is going to be fine. You have the absolute advantage of warm temperature(or modestly cool during winter) where even a little remaining battery capacity will still keep you going.

Further to my to claim how adversely cold has an effect on our 12v batteries I have distinctly noticed a drop in SOC as claimed by my CTEK monitor that correlates to longer drives( more than 50km duration trips) with heating on. This may include window defrost, heated steering wheel and seat warmers. Despite the DC to DC charger providing voltage to recharge the 12V battery I suspect its not quite long enough, I have also heard the DC to DC charges stops topping up the battery after 20 minutes of drive time. I have not been able to confirm this. It also does not help that during severe cold, cars that are equipped with a battery heater will have it turn on seemingly randomly while the car is parked to protect the traction battery. Despite the heater being directly powered by the traction battery I suspect the two coolant circulations pumps are 12v powered. I think Hyundai is addressing the increased frequency of 12v recharging well with the BMS update earlier in the year but my sneaking suspicion is that cars with a battery heater that experience very cold winters need a higher capacity 12v battery.
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It appears that the 960 update caused the battery saver to come on more frequently but it appears that it's not a "smart" wake up.. I don't think that it actually checks what the charging status of the 12 Volt battery is.. It looks to me that the car wakes up every x hours and charges for x minutes and then goes back to sleep, regardless of the 12V battery SoC.
I believe that there is a good reason behind that.. What if the 12 Volt battery is failing and the system would attempt to charge the 12 volt indefinitely as it will never reach the desired level.. This would slowly drain the traction battery.. Especially if the car is parked for a longer time, draining the traction battery could cause damage to that battery.. So, I think that they accepted that the 12 Volt may run empty.. Their priority is to protect the High Voltage battery..
 
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ericy said:
That was one of the more minor issues I have with the car - the rear hatch doesn't always close completely. It was on my list of things that I wanted them to correct, but I forgot to even mention when the battery thing came up.
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You can adjust the rubber stops on the hatch by screwing them in or out
 
BlueKonaEV said:
It appears that the 960 update caused the battery saver to come on more frequently but it appears that it's not a "smart" wake up.. I don't think that it actually checks what the charging status of the 12 Volt battery is.. It looks to me that the car wakes up every x hours and charges for x minutes and then goes back to sleep, regardless of the 12V battery SoC.
I believe that there is a good reason behind that.. What if the 12 Volt battery is failing and the system would attempt to charge the 12 volt indefinitely as it will never reach the desired level.. This would slowly drain the traction battery.. Especially if the car is parked for a longer time, draining the traction battery could cause damage to that battery.. So, I think that they accepted that the 12 Volt may run empty.. Their priority is to protect the High Voltage battery..
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Its absolutely not a smart wake up, mine just went on with 100% SOC and rested voltage at 12.71(she is pretty much fully charged).
 
apu said:
Its absolutely not a smart wake up, mine just went on with 100% SOC and rested voltage at 12.71(she is pretty much fully charged).
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As I said, it makes sense not to be a smart wake up to prevent draining the High Voltage Battery.. I'm sure that they have the ability to charge the aux battery until full every time that the car wakes up but if the 12 V battery never gets to full, it will eventually drain the High Voltage Battery.. It's really a "between a rock and a hard place" situation...
 
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