How will you protect your bumper
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megreyhair
Active Member
I have clear bra on my Pilot. It is good to protect from road debris and minor bumper protection against lousy parkers. Keep in mind that the film is very stretchy but thin. If someone scratch you hard enough, the film will break and possibly leaving the bumper unprotected.
I just got my car yesterday.
Will be ordering a set to protect the front bumper. I might do the rear as well to protect the bumper area around the trunk. You can get a pro to do the install or you can DIY if you are good with arts and crafts. Shouldn't take more than 2 hours.
BTW, don't forget to do the lights too.
I just got my car yesterday.
Will be ordering a set to protect the front bumper. I might do the rear as well to protect the bumper area around the trunk. You can get a pro to do the install or you can DIY if you are good with arts and crafts. Shouldn't take more than 2 hours. BTW, don't forget to do the lights too.
I have clear bra on my Pilot. It is good to protect from road debris and minor bumper protection against lousy parkers. Keep in mind that the film is very stretchy but thin. If someone scratch you hard enough, the film will break and possibly leaving the bumper unprotected.
I just got my car yesterday.
BTW, don't forget to do the lights too.
Did you DIY it with your Clarity? If so, where did you get the pre cut films?
megreyhair
Active Member
http://www.invisiblemask.com/imask/index.php?route=product/category&path=37211
A installation kit comes with any order over $75. They also have an insurance you can buy for 10% of the cost that you can add to your purchase. So if you screw it up, you can email them and they will send you another set.
I would recommend the door cup protection as well. That part get scratch up easily.
I have not done my Clarity yet. I just got mine last weekend
But it shouldn't be too hard to do as the pieces are not that big.
I can give some tips if needed or maybe a youtube video if there are enough interest.
A installation kit comes with any order over $75. They also have an insurance you can buy for 10% of the cost that you can add to your purchase. So if you screw it up, you can email them and they will send you another set.
I would recommend the door cup protection as well. That part get scratch up easily.
I have not done my Clarity yet. I just got mine last weekend
But it shouldn't be too hard to do as the pieces are not that big. I can give some tips if needed or maybe a youtube video if there are enough interest.
http://www.invisiblemask.com/imask/index.php?route=product/category&path=37211
A installation kit comes with any order over $75. They also have an insurance you can buy for 10% of the cost that you can add to your purchase. So if you screw it up, you can email them and they will send you another set.
I would recommend the door cup protection as well. That part get scratch up easily.
I have not done my Clarity yet. I just got mine last weekend
I can give some tips if needed or maybe a youtube video if there are enough interest.
I could use some tips! Also, when you purchased the one for the pilot, were the cuts precise? I have great attention to detail and if it is not precise my OCD will kill me.
megreyhair
Active Member
The cut was very precise. I stretch my film a bit so that I would have a little bit of excess at the edges and I use a razor to cut the extras.
Tips:
1. Keep the backside wet. Use lots of alcohol solution between the car and backside of the film. the solution won't wash the adhesive away. No need to worry about using too much. This will make it easier to position the film.
2. Preposition the film - The film is 'glued' to a rectangular piece of plastic. I cut out all extra backing and i taped the film on the bumper with scotch tape or masking tape after i am satisfy with the position. Some people peel off the all the backing at once and through the entire piece on to position. I found to be only good if you have 2 adults working together.
3. Cut the backing plastic down the middle - Once you tape the film to the car, you can remove 1 half of the backing and work on 1 side at a time.
4. Start at the middle and work towards the wheel.
5. You can peel off a section and redo. It has no affect on the adhesive. Just remember LOTS of alcohol solution behind the film.
6. The soapy solution is for the surface of the film. It helps the squeegee to slide across the film.
7. Stretch - the film is stretchy. You might need to stretch it in places to it to confirm to the car's contour. You can always use a Xacto or razor to cut off excess at the edges.
8. Do it in shades and use a workshop light to add lighting.
9. Work on a cool car body.
10. Point 8 and 9 is to prevent alcohol solution from drying to quickly. Once it is dry, it film will be very sticky and hard to work with.
11. Try to get all the bubbles out. If a spot has lots of bubbles then just peel the film off to that section and redo. There will be lots of redos.
12. Use needle to poke holes for tiny bubbles only.
13. Hide any imperfection behind the front license plate. Somehow the film wasn't straight when I did mine and I end up with a fold. So I hide that behind the front plate.
14. Edge that doesn't stay down - A spot or 2 on the edges won't stay down because maybe the film isn't flat at that area. The trick to keep that spot down is to peel it a bit, spray alcohol solution and then press and hold it down with a towel or your finger. Use a hairdryer on it a bit to help the water evaporato and make the film on that spot softer.
15. Hair dryer or heat gun are good tools to soften the film to help it contour to the car. Remember, you are laying a flat sheet against a 3D shape. You will need to pull and push to make it fit.
Good luck. Feel free to ask if you have questions.
Tips:
1. Keep the backside wet. Use lots of alcohol solution between the car and backside of the film. the solution won't wash the adhesive away. No need to worry about using too much. This will make it easier to position the film.
2. Preposition the film - The film is 'glued' to a rectangular piece of plastic. I cut out all extra backing and i taped the film on the bumper with scotch tape or masking tape after i am satisfy with the position. Some people peel off the all the backing at once and through the entire piece on to position. I found to be only good if you have 2 adults working together.
3. Cut the backing plastic down the middle - Once you tape the film to the car, you can remove 1 half of the backing and work on 1 side at a time.
4. Start at the middle and work towards the wheel.
5. You can peel off a section and redo. It has no affect on the adhesive. Just remember LOTS of alcohol solution behind the film.
6. The soapy solution is for the surface of the film. It helps the squeegee to slide across the film.
7. Stretch - the film is stretchy. You might need to stretch it in places to it to confirm to the car's contour. You can always use a Xacto or razor to cut off excess at the edges.
8. Do it in shades and use a workshop light to add lighting.
9. Work on a cool car body.
10. Point 8 and 9 is to prevent alcohol solution from drying to quickly. Once it is dry, it film will be very sticky and hard to work with.
11. Try to get all the bubbles out. If a spot has lots of bubbles then just peel the film off to that section and redo. There will be lots of redos.
12. Use needle to poke holes for tiny bubbles only.
13. Hide any imperfection behind the front license plate. Somehow the film wasn't straight when I did mine and I end up with a fold. So I hide that behind the front plate.
14. Edge that doesn't stay down - A spot or 2 on the edges won't stay down because maybe the film isn't flat at that area. The trick to keep that spot down is to peel it a bit, spray alcohol solution and then press and hold it down with a towel or your finger. Use a hairdryer on it a bit to help the water evaporato and make the film on that spot softer.
15. Hair dryer or heat gun are good tools to soften the film to help it contour to the car. Remember, you are laying a flat sheet against a 3D shape. You will need to pull and push to make it fit.
Good luck. Feel free to ask if you have questions.
The cut was very precise. I stretch my film a bit so that I would have a little bit of excess at the edges and I use a razor to cut the extras.
Tips:
1. Keep the backside wet. Use lots of alcohol solution between the car and backside of the film. the solution won't wash the adhesive away. No need to worry about using too much. This will make it easier to position the film.
2. Preposition the film - The film is 'glued' to a rectangular piece of plastic. I cut out all extra backing and i taped the film on the bumper with scotch tape or masking tape after i am satisfy with the position. Some people peel off the all the backing at once and through the entire piece on to position. I found to be only good if you have 2 adults working together.
3. Cut the backing plastic down the middle - Once you tape the film to the car, you can remove 1 half of the backing and work on 1 side at a time.
4. Start at the middle and work towards the wheel.
5. You can peel off a section and redo. It has no affect on the adhesive. Just remember LOTS of alcohol solution behind the film.
6. The soapy solution is for the surface of the film. It helps the squeegee to slide across the film.
7. Stretch - the film is stretchy. You might need to stretch it in places to it to confirm to the car's contour. You can always use a Xacto or razor to cut off excess at the edges.
8. Do it in shades and use a workshop light to add lighting.
9. Work on a cool car body.
10. Point 8 and 9 is to prevent alcohol solution from drying to quickly. Once it is dry, it film will be very sticky and hard to work with.
11. Try to get all the bubbles out. If a spot has lots of bubbles then just peel the film off to that section and redo. There will be lots of redos.
12. Use needle to poke holes for tiny bubbles only.
13. Hide any imperfection behind the front license plate. Somehow the film wasn't straight when I did mine and I end up with a fold. So I hide that behind the front plate.
14. Edge that doesn't stay down - A spot or 2 on the edges won't stay down because maybe the film isn't flat at that area. The trick to keep that spot down is to peel it a bit, spray alcohol solution and then press and hold it down with a towel or your finger. Use a hairdryer on it a bit to help the water evaporato and make the film on that spot softer.
15. Hair dryer or heat gun are good tools to soften the film to help it contour to the car. Remember, you are laying a flat sheet against a 3D shape. You will need to pull and push to make it fit.
Good luck. Feel free to ask if you have questions.
Thanks! I will try it sometime in April and will update on how it goes.
megreyhair
Active Member
Patrick Chin
New Member
How long did you have clear bra on your Pilot? Does the clear bra also have UV protection? Years ago, I had a regular vinyl bra on my 1992 Prelude. I removed it for car wash and yearly buff & was, but after about 3 years, there was visible color difference on the paint. I wonder if clear bra will create similar problem.I have clear bra on my Pilot. It is good to protect from road debris and minor bumper protection against lousy parkers. Keep in mind that the film is very stretchy but thin. If someone scratch you hard enough, the film will break and possibly leaving the bumper unprotected.
I just got my car yesterday.
BTW, don't forget to do the lights too.
I got it on my first Prius. That car's bumpers and hood are rock magnets because of the design. However, I think it was a waste of money. When we had to replace a fender the shop had to remove the stuff to blend the hood. Because it did not cover the entire hood, we saw the visible color difference after about 5 years. While the skin may have protected the hood from a chip or two, it did almost too good a job of protecting the paint. So if you do it, do the entire hood - which will be expensive. That's why I'm saying it's probably not worth it unless you live in an area with lots of dirt, rocks and other stuff on the road that's being kicked up.
Looking at the prices for the kits, if you're just doing the front bumpers, then it won't cost that much - IF you know how to do it. For me, the $150 might be better spent elsewhere. Mostly because I'd screw it up and have to take it to someone who knew how to do it and that'd be another $150. At least. LOL
YMMV
Looking at the prices for the kits, if you're just doing the front bumpers, then it won't cost that much - IF you know how to do it. For me, the $150 might be better spent elsewhere. Mostly because I'd screw it up and have to take it to someone who knew how to do it and that'd be another $150. At least. LOL
YMMV
Last edited:
megreyhair
Active Member
My Pilot is 2 years old. So too early to tell. But I did have a subaru before that and the film was on it for 10 years. No difference in paint color that I can see. For Clarity, I will do the front bumper, headlights, DRL, door handle cup, and the top of the rear bumper by the trunk opening.
My main concern is people tapping my bumper while parking. I live in San Francisco and I sometimes have to park in the street. Within the first two months someone had already reversed into my front bumper pretty badly while I was parked and ran off. I had to pay $500 in deductible to make repairs.
Hopefully putting clear bra in both bumpers will keep them spotless for those minor taps but I don't see a pre-cut version of the rear bumper. Does anyone know of another site that offers it?
Also does anyone know if insurance will typically cover the cost of the bra in the event the parts need to be repainted or replaced?
Hopefully putting clear bra in both bumpers will keep them spotless for those minor taps but I don't see a pre-cut version of the rear bumper. Does anyone know of another site that offers it?
Also does anyone know if insurance will typically cover the cost of the bra in the event the parts need to be repainted or replaced?
megreyhair
Active Member
The place I ordered from has insurance you can purchase for10% of the price. They will send a new set if you screw it up. The set cost $130. So the insurance will cost $13 more. The set has 4 pieces so it is not too bad to do.
megreyhair
Active Member
Insurance won't cover the cost of the bra.
I might just try this method instead of going for the ugly bumper bra. Unfortunately the weather has been cold around here so I’ll have to wait til June to try it out. Also don’t have the car yet
ncatoffice
New Member
We just picked up our clarity last week in the Atlanta area. I get all my cars paint protected and am not handy enough to apply clear bra myself . So mine goes in for PPF in a couple of weeks that will provide the following coverage
- Full Wrapped Hood
- Full Wrapped Front Fenders
- Side Mirrors and Door Cups
- Front Bumper kit
- Headlight kit
Its not inexpensive to have it installed, but I detest rock ships, and from past experience, the cost of getting a few fixed from a good body shop is way more than the cost of getting the film installed
. So mine goes in for PPF in a couple of weeks that will provide the following coverage- Full Wrapped Hood
- Full Wrapped Front Fenders
- Side Mirrors and Door Cups
- Front Bumper kit
- Headlight kit
Its not inexpensive to have it installed, but I detest rock ships, and from past experience, the cost of getting a few fixed from a good body shop is way more than the cost of getting the film installed
megreyhair
Active Member
Some places charges like $300 to $400 to have it done.
I did it myself and I covered the front bumper, headlights, door cups, and the rear bumper area right under the trunk lid. Did it in 4 different days and each time about 2 to 3 hours each.
I did the door cup first since wife and kids always scratches the paint with their nails.
I did it myself and I covered the front bumper, headlights, door cups, and the rear bumper area right under the trunk lid. Did it in 4 different days and each time about 2 to 3 hours each.
I did the door cup first since wife and kids always scratches the paint with their nails.
megreyhair
Active Member
@nactoffice, how much are they charging you for all that work? if you are going to add so much film on the car, then you should look into ceramic coating. That might be a better solution since you are already willing to spend so much. The cost is around $600 to $1200 depending on the type of coating.
ncatoffice
New Member
@megreyhair , the person I go to is what I would consider expensive. I will be paying upwards of $1000. He has done my other cars, and I am super happy with his work.
Once I get PPF, I take my cars for ceramic coating as well. And then I detail my cars every other week. Little obsessive I know
Once I get PPF, I take my cars for ceramic coating as well. And then I detail my cars every other week. Little obsessive I know