Heavy noise of ICE engine in winter

  • Thread starter Thread starter JKroll
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As for Solar, I can have 4k watts of solar done for well under $3k. We do all the installs ourselves and get parts wholesale. My brother has a side business doing solar.

Most are not so fortunate to be in your position. I’m impressed that you can get 4K watts of panels, mounting hardware, conduit and wire, an inverter and transfer switch for well under $3K.

Are you limited by available roof space? If I were in your situation, I’d install as much as possible, at least up to the wattage that would offset your total annual consumption.
 
Most are not so fortunate to be in your position. I’m impressed that you can get 4K watts of panels, mounting hardware, conduit and wire, an inverter and transfer switch for well under $3K.

Are you limited by available roof space? If I were in your situation, I’d install as much as possible, at least up to the wattage that would offset your total annual consumption.
We installed so much solar at my parent's house, they have had a negative eclectic bill for over a year. (they used to drive for work and got laid off, they both have EV's)
 
The EV range display will never show less than 0. When it first reaches 0, the battery gauge will show 2 bars. Some owners have reported the battery gauge showing 1 or 0 bars after continuing to drive with 0 EV range. Others who monitor the traction battery SOC percentage have reported that it will decline after reaching the set point that triggers HV at 2 bars or 0 EV range.

Yes, it does, or can, get worse if the driver continues to operate the vehicle after reaching 0 EV miles, particularly when doing so under demanding conditions.
Yes. Exactly. I'd add that for an unknown reason my Clarity, since new, has permitted me to use the 2 bars of EV range that are meant to be reserved. The way you can see this (until March 5th 2026 anyway), is if your hondalink EV goes below 10% but above 5% you'll see 1 bar on the EV range meter. If it goes below 5% you'll see zero bars. The EV bars going to 0 (blank) is anomalous. My car has since day 1, done this. It took me a minute to understand that some other Clarity owners literally never see this condition. But yeah, I can do it anytime I'm not paying attention.

I've never had power loss, but I've also never done lower than 5% or at least not for long. If I notice and not near charging, I hold HV charge which has always worked for me to slowly rebuild charge. And yes, below 10% EV on the hondalink app, when the EV range on the display is 0.0 is what causes the angry bees sound that I suspect some Clarity owners have never heard. It isn't just loud, its extremely loud to the point where you passengers are afraid to stay in the car. And yes, if you get to this point its very obvious you need HV charge. The part that I sometimes miss is EV (on the dash) going to 0 which isn't loud. That's still the 10% buffer before the really bad noise occurs. Note that what the dashboard displays IS different than what you see in the HondaLink app. 0 on the dash, is still 10% in Hondalink. 0 on the dash and no bars of EV range is the true zero.
 
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We installed so much solar at my parent's house, they have had a negative eclectic bill for over a year. (they used to drive for work and got laid off, they both have EV's)

That’s fascinating, but you didn’t answer my question.

Here’s another, does your parent’s electric provider pay their customers for surplus energy production? If not, then it is pointless to install a system that produces more electricity than is consumed.
 
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