Just wanted to hop on here and say I appreciate your tip regarding keeping the strut attached at the top and turning the wheel inward. Much easier to push down with foot and get the strut out of the knuckle.I wanted to mention how to remove the front struts.
Cravenspeed has really good instructions but I suggest some changes.
https://www.cravenspeed.com/mini-f56-performance-springs/
After step 3, spread the knuckle so that the bottom of the strut comes out. There is a special tool for this but you can also use a big flat head screwdriver.
Switch steps 4 and 5. Keep the top bolts attached when you push down on the hub. Also, turn the wheel slightly inward. So on the left side, turn the wheel so that the wheels are pointing right. On the right side, turn the wheel so it is pointing left. With these two tricks and a hard push with your foot, the strut will come out of the knuckle.
To do it in the safest way possible, you'll want a spring compressor. If you've removed/installed strut springs before and are familiar enough, you definitely don't need one. I installed my springs without a compressor and actually thought the preload on the stock springs was not very much compared to others I have done.So, spring compressors are not required, or would it be wise to have them available when installing springs?
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To do it in the safest way possible, you'll want a spring compressor. If you've removed/installed strut springs before and are familiar enough, you definitely don't need one. I installed my springs without a compressor and actually thought the preload on the stock springs was not very much compared to others I have done.
I hit a small hummock today that got my rear wheels off the ground, something I haven’t experienced since swapping the original springs and dampers out of my fortwo for Bilstein B14s (Bilstein dampers with matched Eibach progressive springs) nine years ago. Based on that one little inconsequential tidbit alone, I’d recommend going whole-hog with a German TÜV-approved set.I just don’t want the car to be bouncier than stock. The rear is relatively rough on some parts of my freeway commute. I don’t mind it but don’t want it to be worse.
I'm glad you got it figured out. I found the easiest way is to leave the top of the strut attached in the engine bay and then just stand on the knuckle. It popped right out when I did that.
The tip is sort of an oval shape. You insert it in the slit in the strut collar, and then as you turn it, it spreads the strut collar, making it much easier to insert the strut.
A large flathead screwdriver would probably accomplish the same thing, but the tool makes it a lot easier.