Hi, I'm in the same situation. However, I read somewhere that Honda does not recommend using extension cable. Anyone on this forum using extensions, and running into issues??
The manual does state that but we all know that’s because of the lazy stupidity of some who would just grap any light duty cord and burn down their house. Same thing for the recommendation to use a dedicated circuit. Honda didn’t want to get inundated with calls from the ignorant who plugged in to a circuit with so much existing draw on it that the 12 Amps rated draw of the charger would then exceed the 15 Amp breaker and possibly heat up enough to damage the charger or even cause a fire or at best continually stop charging.
So for economic and legal reasons Honda has decided to cater to the least common denominator in society...the idiots among us who don’t read labels and don’t take the time to understand what they are doing
However common sense informs one that you can use an extension cord if you properly size it to the circuit and use it in a safe manner. Here’s how to do it.
The Honda charger is rated at a maximum of 12 Amps. US houses are wired with 15 Amp breakers with 14 gauge wire or 20 Amp with 12 gauge wire. Circuits and breakers should be derated by 20% for continuous use and so 80% of 15 Amps is 12 Amps, and 80% of 20 Amp breaker is 16 Amps the max draw for each. So All is fine until you put more items with more draw on the circuit and overload it’s carring capacity resulting in warm to hot wires and brekers that will be continually tripping. So again if the maimun draw on a multi use 15 Amp protected circuit never surpasses 12 Amps then you will be in code ans have no problems. If you choose not to use a dedicated line, then you must ensure all devices on that line draw 12 Amps or less at any given time (up to 15 Amps momentary). In this scenario, your Charger already is rated at the max, so no other devices may be run in its circuit while it is charging. (You could simultaneously run 4 more Amps with it on a 20 Amp circuit). You can see that since some user intervention is required that dedicated circuits are preferred since they reduce the possibility of inadvertent overloading.
So now you’re made your circuit and it’s breaker safe, what about extension cords? Extension cords come in several ampacity sizes, length, and robustness.
For the reasons stated above you should choose a quality 12 gauge cable that is the shortest length that will work in your application (for shorter runs, even a 16 g would work, but we’re only going to use 12 g). Choose the shortest length that reaches and look for the letters SJTW (S- fexible, J- for hard service , T- Thermopaltic rated for 300 v, W- for Weather approved. See previous posts for low cost examples. Some can be had wirh lighted ends so you can tell at a glance that powers getting to it.
Now you’re ready to hook up a charger but you have to do it safely. Remember ext cords are not allowed to go through walls or be used in any permanent installation. They must also not be flexed back and forth repeatedly or pinched or abraded. And all connections must be kept dry and away from water. In the garage keep the brick and connections off the floor and your fine. Outside do the same and protect the connections from rain with a cover at both the outdoor receptacle and the connection between ext cord and charger. See pictures below for two ex. of the covers.
Bottom line: an extension cord and non dedicated circuit can be used but then the responsibility of doing doing so correctly and safely falls on you. If you’re not comfortable with the exercise of your personal responsibility then just follow the manual and spend the money with your electrician.
I charged with an extension cord outside for about a month unti my ChargePoint arrived (and I cleaned out the garage!).
Here examplea of the covers
Dicalimer: I’m not an electrician but I’ve worked with them and have a little common sense. Always be safe and follow your local codes with no shortcuts.
